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need some install help

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by mgrande, Mar 26, 2010.

  1. Mar 26, 2010 at 10:20 PM
    #1
    mgrande

    mgrande [OP] iKill

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    2011 TRD off road
    Kings, AP 3" leaf pack, timbrens front and rear, TC UCA's, pro comp 7189's, baja ATZ's, CBI sliders and rear, relentless front, dynomax catback
    Well, I should finally be getting the final parts to my full OME lift with LR UCA's on monday. I've read the install threads, my springs are already compressed and is seems cut and dry. But I have some quick questions.
    Are there any torque specs that I should follow for the install? Or just make everything tight as hell?
    Any need for loctite?
    Are there any specific places I should grease/lube? If so what do I use?
     
  2. Mar 26, 2010 at 10:45 PM
    #2
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted Well-Known Member

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    Reno, NV
    Vehicle:
    2009 Tacoma TRD OR Access Cab
    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    UCA ball joint: 80ft.lbs,
    Sway bar ends: 35ft.lbs,
    Lower strut bolt:150ft. lbs,
    Upper strut nuts: 70ft.lbs (on stock, may be different on aftermarket and will likely be noted in the instructions)
    Ubolts: 70ft.lbs (also can vary aftermarket ap)
    Lug NUts: 70-80ft.lbs

    You don't have to use locktite, but locktite RED can't hurt.

    I don't know the other torque specs of the top of my head but if you still need them tomorrow I'll look it up for you. Also, pretty sure you'll want to grease the bushings on the new UCA and if that ball joint isn't already greased/or sealed type you'll need to do that too. The kit should have torque specs in the instructions too.

    After jacking the front and removing the wheel, 1st remove the swaybar end, 2nd remove the nut on the UCA joint: to get it to drop, give it a few good hits with a hammer just above the bolt that you removed the nut from, it will probably take a couple of whacks but when it comes loose it will just drop (watch that VSC line/cable, it will get real taught when you drop from the ball joint) The rest is obvious.

    When you're done with the install, drive a couple hundred miles and retorque all the nuts. I reccomend to wait as long to get an alignment too, if not a little longer.
     
  3. Mar 27, 2010 at 9:19 AM
    #3
    mgrande

    mgrande [OP] iKill

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    2011 TRD off road
    Kings, AP 3" leaf pack, timbrens front and rear, TC UCA's, pro comp 7189's, baja ATZ's, CBI sliders and rear, relentless front, dynomax catback
    Thanks! I'm also going to be replacing my driver side spindle. Any specific things for that?
     
  4. Jul 3, 2010 at 10:47 AM
    #4
    Taco Ron

    Taco Ron Male Member

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    Do NOT use loctite RED unless you don't plan to remove the parts. Blue is better option if you plan on removing at a later date. I also use a green wicking type that you can add later and it will wick in and have the same effect as blue.
     
  5. Jul 3, 2010 at 4:43 PM
    #5
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    X2...Dont use any locktite on any suspension parts.
     
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