New fuel filter leaking

Tried replacing my non Toyota brand fuel filter w 40k miles on it with a new Toyota filter. The new one is leaking from the outlet port. Tried uninstalling and reinstalling a couple times but same story. Wound up reinstalling the old unit. Apparently this isn't an uncommon issue. Any ideas why the new one is defective? The threads and inner ball flange look fine to me.

 

probably a damaged seat inside the fuel filter. take it back to the autoparts store you got it from and say it was leaking from the outlet and you had to put the previous one back on just to run your vehicle, and that it doesnt leak with the old one back on your vehicle. it shouldn't be a problem to defect it and get a new one. just tell them you want a new one and they should be fine with it.

 

Dirt on the flare can also cause them to leak.

A piece of rust or grit then it got knocked off in swapping filters.

A nick or burr where the flare sits on the filter.

 

I installed a wix fuel filter, from my experience. Don't be afraid to man handle the fuel lines to line up when threading in the line. Also use a flared wrench.

Also from what I seen on the fuel filter once they start threading it starts crushing the seal. So you might need another fuel filter. If damaged already...

 

The only sealing surface is the flat part of the flared tube, and the flat angled surface in the filter. A leak can only happen if those two surfaces aren't perfectly mating together.

Was it like a drip drip leak or a spray?

 

I put a Wix fuel filter on my 3.4 and it went right on perfectly. Taking the old Denso one off was another story!

 

I change filters every spring Don`t think I ever had one leak.

There was a T100 once I never could break the nuts loose ending up installing one with replaceable element It was not cheap but it works great

 

I've had problems with fuel filters. The first time I swapped mine out I tried two different parts store brands and both leaked from the outlet side. After closer examination I noticed the cone on the two part store filters were smaller than the original, the cone being the portion inside the connection where the tubing mates to. I then picked up a Toyota filter and the cone portion was definitely larger and that one installed with no leaks. This last time, even with a Toyota filter, I had to alternately tighten both inlet and outlet connections slowly and equally to not have any small leaks.

 

On my '01 I found I had a leak after replacing the fuel filter. I had to tighten the crap out of in order to get it to seal correctly.

 

Thanks for the replies. I'm returning the filter. Changed plenty of these on various cars over the years and never had one leak. I'll try another new Toyota filter and see how it goes.

 

I thought I would share my experience. Installed a new Toyota (Denso) filter -- leak on the inlet side. Messed around for a while screwing/unscrewing the fitting, trying to fit the flared lines at slightly different angles, etc. After 5 or 6 tries and almost ready to go find a flaring tool (thought the flared end is damages or something) or a new filter, it worked! No leak. So, those flared line ends are very particular and have to mate with the filter fittings just right. Be patient. No need to torque too much. And please no teflon tape, RTV or alike.

 

One also needs to be careful it only takes a small piece of grit in the threads or on the flare to cause a leak

Good luck trying to re flare old weather exposed lines it might be here in the North East but all my tries the line cracked

 

I need to do this. What is the scheduled maintenance time between changing them according to Toyota?

 

This is not a Toyota scheduled maintenance item. I just bought the truck with 170k miles and going through everything I feel like changing. I guess, Toyota considers it a "lifetime" component that can be run to failure. You may or may not agree with this, but I think you can run it to failure with no consequence to safety or the wellbeing of other truck system or components. The problem with running it to failure is that it won't be easy to know for sure when it is starting to clog. You'd notice the engine starving for fuel, but at that point it could be several different things -- clogged fuel filter or failing fuel pump, or failing injectors. I think you might see the ECU throwing a lean condition code or low fuel pressure, etc. So, it might be a bit of a hustle to troubleshoot a failing fuel filter. On the other hand, it's a very easy and inexpensive item to replace for the piece of mind (if everything goes well....). Similarly, I am also replacing the PCV valve and the spark plug harness (together with the spark plugs) although those are not scheduled maintenance items and they are working fine at the moment. And I am cleaning the MAF sensor and the throttle body -- no failure and they are not scheduled maintainance items.
Some people call this preventive maintenance. Other people call it provocative meintainance in the sense that it often provokes/introduces failure instead of preventing it. The science is actually on the side of those who think that it is safer and more economical to run most mechanical and electrical components to failure instead of preventively replacing them. Statistically, most failures happen as a result of so called preventive maintenance. There are two main reasons for that -- one is the possibility of technician's errors and the other one is because of defective new parts (most defects let themselves known early in the component's life). It is also more economical overall to run a component to failure than to preventively replace it. This is solid and fairly old science. But I like working on my new to me truck and enjoy the "provocative" maintenance I am doing at the moment

 

As long as you factor in the Recovery Costs

Much cheaper to get rescued from the Mall parking lot then 15 miles deep in the mountains or other exciting places one might venture

 

This afternoon I tried to replace the old Wix fuel filter with a new OEM. I went through the steps to make sure the threads would spin up so no cross threading. All looked good but a small leak at the inlet side. Tried to retighten without success. So I finally gave up and put the old Wix back on. No leaks. I guess I need to go buy another Wix. It looks like the Wix has a larger or slightly different shaped nipple on the inside where it mates up with the fuel line. The doesn't make any sense.

 

that reminds me I need to locate the Timmy The Toolman video to refresh how to do this, make sure I have the proper tools or the DIY garage has them
when I get on the rented lift to put my lower shield back on I am going to attempt this, probably gonna need some lube to make everything loosen up, dealer mechanic stopped changing these for me more than 15yrs ago
they said it was a lifetime part!

 

I use a 14mm flair wrench for the pipe fittings and a 19mm to hold the filter body still. Use 10mm barrel sockets to remove the filter bracket and release the line holders. Just make sure you can finger spin the fittings into the filter without much effort so you know you don't have those cross threaded.

 

i remember changing fuel filters on my late '70s toyotas, so easy to do on the topside

it looked like this with just rubber hoses

 

For me, I really had to tighten the shit out of the inlet side to get it to not leak. Using the proper wrench of course.