New Radiator Questions - Aluminum?

Hey my radiator's plastic cracked and I have it off and am looking for a replacement. I can't find any decent quality ones that specifically fit my truck (a '00 3.4L Manual). I know I can throw in the auto tranmission one but seems like I'll lose some cooling real estate to the a/t coolant section. I'm also seriously considering going all aluminum (so nothing cracks again), but the only one I can find doesn't give any dimensions and I'm hesitant to buy one that I'm not sure is 20 3/4" tall.

Any ideas? Here is the link to the possible one: Liland Global Radiator https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10331536&cc=1364723&jsn=10889&jsn=10889

If not I might just go spectra premium CU1774 for auto tranny and it should all be fine.

 

You're not going to tell any difference in cooling if you use an AT one with the ATF heat exchanger tube.

I saw that all aluminum one from Rock Auto but couldn't find any info on it so I passed. Unfortunately Mishimoto doesn't make one. Champion makes one & is what some of the guys here are using but it requires some minor mods.

I just ended up getting a Denso stock replacement & called it a day. My stock radiator lasted 17 yrs before the top end cracked & even then it didn't cause any overheating. If the Denso I have lasts half of that I'll be more than happy.

 

I was in the same boat as you with a 2000 manual. I really wanted to get the champion 3 core aluminum but they're still not out so I went with this: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NRS2823 which is the Spectra Branded radiator, the benefit of getting in store is that you can inspect the rad before and really examine the plastic tanks. The spectra was built well and the plastic looked better than the original harrison radiator that was in my truck.

 

My original radiator cracked on me a few months ago. I went with a Champion Aluminum. I would suggest, to anyone asking about replacing their radiator to do it.

Here's some info on my replacement... I did my timing belt and water pump at the same time.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/aluminum-radiator-install-w-timing-and-pump.536687/

 

Pretty squared radiator.

 

Problem with this is that its out of stock with no sign of availability.

 

So just following your write up. I recently put in a new radiator/thermostat/fan clutch. I see you replaced the fan clutch pulley/mount. Any reason? I didn't see that listed anywhere before as something I should do, so didn't think about it.

 

@1997tacomav6 has a pretty good rightup about this

 

I replaced the fan bracket/mount because my truck has over 250,000 miles at the time. If the motor is running, the fan is turning the bearing in that bracket, and the only way to replace that bearing is to replace the bracket. You have to remove it to do the water pump/timing belt, so I decided to replace it while I was already in there anyway.

 

Hmm okay, probably knock it out when I do my water pump/belt. My truck is just shy of 200,000 miles, and slowly doing a major overhaul of everything.

First up, however, is carrier bearing and valve cover gaskets.

 

Well that sucks.

I'd call them and ask them if they have any idea when they'll be back in stock.
951 - 245 - 9464
https://shop.championcooling.com/Sh...00-2001-2002-2003-2004-Toyota-Tacoma-SKU-1778

 

10/4... I'm debating going 1 piece driveline when I do my 4x conversion (working on that now). If I don't go 1 piece, I'll replace the carrier bearing while I'm doing the swap.

Valve covers are next, right after 4x... my truck is leaking like a sieve from the valve covers now.

 

My fan hub bearings locked up on me once, stopped me dead in the middle of the road and snapped the belt.
I’m needing all my timing belts etc coming up soon, where did you buy the fan hub bracket from?
Rockauto?
Asian?
How much?

 

Mine is the power steering that goes around the fan.

 

The family agreement is that I have to get the truck running flawlessly and not being a maintenance money pit for 6-12 month before the 4x4 swap. So lets see that means, carrier bearing (maybe U - joint since I'm there), Front Pads/Rotors/lines, Rear drums/lines (maybeeeee do a the disc conversion), Valve cover gaskets, transmission filter/flush, power steering filter cleaning/flush, lower ball joints/bushings, UCA bushings/ball joint, shocks (might do a small lift), rear leaf springs/shocks, battery, big 3, alternator, seat belt retractors, weather seals (in the door), fuel filter, water pump/belt, seats (front seats are uhhh less than optimal), tires, paint tailgate

Not required but nice: Headunit/Speakers, Multi-layering sound deadening, paint camper shell, Tundra brake upgrade, bed rails, LED camper shell lighting, HID headlight conversion

Edit: Just to be clear, none of these (other than the gaskets) were a surprise when we got the truck, and the 4x4 conversion was agreed to prior to purchase, so no surprises or family strife. Wife, very fairly, wants to make sure the truck is mechanically sound prior to doing any huge alterations/$ investments and also so we get some use out of it for our initial investment.

 

Better angle on the U joints, one less thing to worry about (Carrier Bearing).

The amount of clearance you lose going to 1 piece isn't really a whole lot. I still have to talk to the shop that would be doing it, and wiegh the pros and cons. Not saying it's definate, but it's on the table.

 

They have been out of stock for months now, last I head was January they might be back in stock

 

Just ordered one from rockauto for 100.00 asain

 

Carrier bearing and U-joints could be part of your 4x swap (you have to replace the front portion of your rear driveline for the swap anyway)

Front pads and rotors = Do the Tundra brake swap. You can replace the Tacoma rotors time and time again... they will still warp. For the rear, just replace the drums and shoes and look at the wheel cylinders to replace if needed. Swaping to disc in the rear is a waste of time and money... and will possibly cause you to have to do something else with the brake master cylinder.

Don't bother doing the flush and filter on the trans if you're going to do the 4x conversion. You have an A340E trans if you are a Pre-Runner... you need an A340F transmission (or you need to replace the tail piece and output shaft which would cause you to have to drain the trans anyway).

 

I recall someone had a ripped up undercarriage after a one piece exploded? I don't know what that member was doing though when it did. I'm still weighing the pro's and con's myself.