Newer??? Lower ball joint failure

I had two, both in the blind hole. First was on removal. Dealer installed those on the recall. Second was reinstall. That one sheared a few threads in, which was strange and a total turd to remove. The only other issue I've had on my patina bucket was the front dif drain plug. Had to weld a nut on it.

 

That’s how they fail driving sometimes too: sheared bolts or I think a cracked stud.

 

I think I got lucky. I had no idea there were different bolts.

My 04 has the dust boot and I believe I installed the black bolts. Torqued to 59 ft/lbs per the manual. No shearing.

 

The 03 manual floating about the internet is wrong but toyota did correct it. As for those black bolts with washers, anything over 37 ft lbs is risking a failure. Hell, I wasn't paying attention and had an old printout that said 59, 1 bolt went in fine and the 2nd failed while I was trying to torque it to 59. Realized my f-up and removed all of them. 8 new bolts, torqued to 37.

Next time I replace the LBJs, going to go with the Total Chaos solution.

Might want to take a look since you weren't aware of the different bolts.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...s-wanted-about-lower-ball-joint-bolts.772506/

 

I was aware of the different bolts just wasn’t aware of the incorrect torque specs in that manual.

Unfortunately I have no idea of knowing which bolt I have. I bought those from the local dealer at the time - will have to call and see if they have my order on file.

At this point, can I back the bolts out and retorque them to 37 ft/lbs or should I buy new bolts?

Also how do I know which bolts to get?

I have an 04 DC 3.4 4x4 with the LBJ dust boots.

 

I did the same thing as you. When I ordered new oem LBJs and bolts, I read 59 ft/lbs and that's what I torqued mine to. I've since found out about the lower torque number, and am considering ordering another set of bolts to put in at the lower torque.

 

I wouldn't back them out. Just replace them.

Here is what I recommend:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-ball-joint-bolts.772506/page-4#post-27990706

 

To summarize:

Black Bolt (90119-10933) at 37 ft/lbs?

regardless if you have a dust boot or not

 

Some run the 90119-10933 without the dust protector. I have not tried it but as long as the bolt does not bottom out before being fully seated (snug it up by hand), then yep go for it. The concern was the black bolt with washer was slightly longer because of the use of the dust protector. From the reports here, looks like its a non-issue. Up to you though.

If I wasn't going to use the dust protector, I would use the ARP bolt and my next choice after that would be the OE Toyota red bolt.

Also, just want to note... none of the toyota information (recall campaign notice included) mentions the use of thread locker on the LBJ bolts. Because it slightly alters torque value, I choose to run them dry and mark them with a paint pen. No thread locker on the LBJ bolts. Its a judgement call.

 

This thread details the TC uniball conversion you mentioned. They also say that their OEM LBJs were “holding on by a thread” after having been recently replaced. Granted, they had used it off road, but even with extreme use, most sources say OEM LBJs should last at least 30,000 miles. I suspect it may be the over-torquing of the bolts that is possibly contributing to these premature failures. It’s unclear if the bolts being too tight would cause the joint itself to fail, however, rather than simply causing the bolts to shear. It’s unclear what they meant by “holding on by a thread.”


https://www.takethetruck.com/blog/total-chaos-uniball-lower-ball-joint-conversion

 

Lower Ball Joints absolutely must be treated as a routine maintenance item. I think a high percentage of the failure reported on the facebook groups (seems like nearly everyday, right?), are cases where they haven't been changed out/checked on a regular basis or its from using the wrong bolt and/or over torquing. They need to be checked. It's that simple. It takes just a few moments to check them at oil change, I say do it. Piece of mind.

 

See? They mention it right here,



I'm not saying not to use thread locker... well, wait a minute. Maybe I am.

Run them dry. If toyota felt thread locker was needed after all of that LBJ mess, they would have stated it.
Use the correct torque spec and mark them with a paint pen. Visually check them periodically. They aren't going to back out. If they do, you'll know it.
Get into the habit of regularly checking (get it on jackstands first) your LBJs for play, especially after offroad use.

If you can afford the TC uniball solution, do it.

 

Yea it’d be nice to know if those failures are due to the ball actually coming out of the socket, or the bolts/stud breaking. I suspect it’s mainly the latter unless they’re original.

Hm, mine have loctite on them according to the PO when he replaced them with OEM. I may have to order new hardware as well then. I assume the nearly-new LBJs can be reused, however.

 

My OCD wouldn't let me pass on that. Doesn't mean you can't. Your call

Replacing the bolts is cheap enough. If you do replace, definitely clean the threads and remove any residual chunks of dried up thread locker.

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The LBJs can be reused if replacing the bolts. Before you take em apart, check them to be sure they're good to go.

 

I've done the same on my 02, even reused them at that higher torque after doing a CV axle replacement. Never had one break and I always use blue loctite on them. When I do the LBJ r&r I'll set the new bolts to a lower torque.

 

Torqued to 64 ft/lb and lots of wheeling on 35s but haven't sheared a bolt yet. Also running Moog upper/lowers and check them often

 

Which bolts @ 64? The black with washer (90119-10933)?

 

TBH I don't remember what/where they came from lol

 

This was me with new, straight out of the bag 90119-10933 bolts and accidentally torqued them to 59. The one pictured didn't even make it to 59 and snapped while torquing.

 

Wanted to circle back on this....I just got done checking for play. Jacked the tire off the ground from the LCA and then used a large pry bar to put upward pressure under the tire. I've been a carpenter for 20+ years so I think in terms of fractions of an inch, not mm, but to my eye the passenger side looked to have 1/32+ of play (less than 1/16). So that would be beyond the max allowable LBJ play (.5mm). The drivers side had less play, maybe 1/64, which would be within the allowable play. Now I completely understand that this was just eyeballing them, so by no means a precise assessment of play, and regardless, they will be getting replaced.