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Noico / Dynamat / Sound Deadening material application

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Cardsallday13, Feb 23, 2019.

  1. Feb 23, 2019 at 7:17 PM
    #1
    Cardsallday13

    Cardsallday13 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So i have looked around and i know there are a few threads where people have used noico or dynamat to do sound deadening.

    I was wondering how/where people applied the material in the doors when they did it. Did you put it everywhere on the outer door? Did you also put it on the inner door panel that you remove to access the outer?

    pics would be great!.

    TIA
     
  2. Feb 23, 2019 at 10:10 PM
    #2
    Sam275

    Sam275 Well-Known Member

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  3. Feb 23, 2019 at 10:21 PM
    #3
    Nixinus

    Nixinus Well-Known Member

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    Here's a video of one way to do the install.



    I personally used up all my sound deadener and insulating panels on the roof, floor and back panel so I didn't have much left to do the doors. I ended up covering about 60% of the inside of the outermost panel.

    [​IMG]

    Image for example, not my truck.
     
  4. Feb 24, 2019 at 3:23 AM
    #4
    rob feature

    rob feature Tacos!

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    Damper sheets will be most effective on the outer door skin as it's a large piece of sheet metal that's most prone to resonance. It's possibly useful on the door card too - just depends. IMHO the doors are the most important piece of the deadening puzzle so if you're going to invest time and money doing this, put the most effort into the doors. Consider also installing a barrier layer and decoupler. Those prevent transmission type ingress as well as noise generated inside the door. It's much easier to do this all at once as opposed to revisiting it down the road.
     
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  5. Feb 24, 2019 at 3:58 AM
    #5
    dcoursler

    dcoursler Well-Known Member

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    Too many to list. No different than any other Tacoma out there
    Whatever you do. Buy more than you calculate you need. I did the inner and outer door skin, I did the butyl backed mat as well the insulation on top. What a work of difference it made!! I am on 35’s with vinyl floor and my truck is as quiet as it can be, you can maintain a quiet conversation via telephone without issue or people even knowing your driving.
     
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  6. Feb 24, 2019 at 4:11 AM
    #6
    avi8or_co

    avi8or_co Well-Known Member

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    My 3rd gen, this is the back door before I reapplied the factory covers for the holes and the vapor barrier. Noico applied to the outer panel and areas of the inside panel that needed it. Outer panel is completely covered. Shape of the areas I cut are a little goofy looking for the inside panel but I did my best to preserve all the factory holes cut in the door and keep the factory vapor barrier. Door closes like a bank vault now, substantial difference in noise on the road.
    B4C7C764-D96B-4618-893E-260A7525D44F.jpg
     
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  7. Feb 25, 2019 at 8:36 PM
    #7
    deuceb

    deuceb Well-Known Member

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    I'd like to do this to my truck. Can you tell me exactly what kind you used and a rough estimate about how much I should order to cover my back, roof, floor and doors? I'm very new to sound deadener.
     
  8. Feb 25, 2019 at 9:01 PM
    #8
    avi8or_co

    avi8or_co Well-Known Member

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    Yep, used the popular Noico, found on Amazon...https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B00URUIKAK

    Works great, I’ve used Dynamat before and this works easily as well at about 40% the cost. The 36 sqft box easily covered the doors, and I have enough still to...maybe...get the back wall behind the seats but I haven’t done or measured it out yet. So if you’re doing the floor and roof, I’d think about likely 3 boxes and go from there. Get the roller they sell with it, for $10 I think, too. It eases the install quite a bit. Just remember it’s a very dense material so it’s heavy, the 36 sqft is probably 25-30 lbs, so 3 boxes you are adding getting near a 75-90 lb load to the truck. Something to just be aware of.

    Don’t expect it to turn a Taco into a caddy but it made a really nice difference with just the doors. Floor, roof, and back wall likely could be pretty substantial improvement.
     
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  9. Feb 25, 2019 at 9:38 PM
    #9
    pdxmonkeyboy

    pdxmonkeyboy Well-Known Member

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    I will 2nd and 3rd what others said. ITS THE OUTER SKIN THAT MATTERS MOST!! I was watching some tacoma dude on youtube and he was all jazzed about sound deadening and did only the inner skin... what a tool.

    A heat gun really help work it into the groves, as does one of those screen installer do hickys.. you know the little rollers. If you are going to run an amp then I would do both outer door skin and cover the holes in the inner skin. Will produce better bass.

    I just got my truck and ordered two boxes from Amazon. Going to do entire back wall, floor, and all the doors...maybe some firewall but the tire drone from the back is stupid in the access cab.

    It's easy, cheap and makes a TON of difference. you will piss yourself when you install it on the door and tap on it with your knuckles. THUD.
     
  10. Feb 26, 2019 at 5:19 AM
    #10
    Cardsallday13

    Cardsallday13 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I am still on the fence. i did order 18ft plus i had 2ft of dynamat sitting around.

    when i am driving with the radio off, i seem to notice that the majority of the road noise seems to be coming from the back wall of the cab (DC). has anyone just done the back wall?
     
  11. Feb 26, 2019 at 5:20 AM
    #11
    Cardsallday13

    Cardsallday13 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    did you end up putting the plastic sheet back on the door?
     
  12. Feb 26, 2019 at 6:18 AM
    #12
    avi8or_co

    avi8or_co Well-Known Member

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    I did, that’s there to prevent moisture intrusion along with those black plugs that go in the door holes. I know it probably might be better sound insulation to cover those but you have to keep door hardware and power windows in mind. Those holes are there and sized so a mechanic can access those parts. Removing sound mat is a PITA without cutting it if you ever have a simple lock actuator fail.

    The plastic film comes off easily. Just get a corner and pull. It will separate like chewing gum, just follow as you pull with a box cutter on the glue to help it along and make it easier. Set it aside flat and glue up, then when you’re done just position it and press it into the glue and it will re-stick.

    Here’s my finished product before reattaching the inner panel and the new Kicker CS 6.75 mounted. Kept it basically stock other than the addition of the deadener material.
    48A83BAD-8F8F-4511-A9EE-692780A78090.jpg
    I routed the factory speaker plug and the new speaker connector adaptor along the factory wire harness that goes inside the door to the right of the bottom (big) hole and secured it with zip ties. This is necessary because the new speakers connect from behind (like most speakers do) while the factory speaker has a plug in front.

    If you are doing a system upgrade like I did, I recently posted a DIY on how to retrofit the connector on the stock dash speaker (non JBL) to fit an aftermarket tweeter with an inline crossover and make it plug and play. Hope it helps some guys out
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...or-mod-diy-lots-of-pics.594626/#post-19916419
     
  13. Feb 26, 2019 at 6:34 AM
    #13
    Cardsallday13

    Cardsallday13 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I ordered enough for mainly the outer skin. 18ft
     
  14. Feb 26, 2019 at 7:56 AM
    #14
    pdxmonkeyboy

    pdxmonkeyboy Well-Known Member

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    nice!! hopefully you ordered the install tool as well. if not, you probably want to get that. its hell on the fingers after a short time and you really want to mash it on.
     
  15. Feb 26, 2019 at 7:57 AM
    #15
    Cardsallday13

    Cardsallday13 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah. Got the roller too.
     
  16. Feb 27, 2019 at 5:11 AM
    #16
    Cardsallday13

    Cardsallday13 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    has anyone removed the storage bins behind the rear seats? it looks like 4 bolts per panel...
     
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  17. Feb 27, 2019 at 5:21 AM
    #17
    stec06

    stec06 Well-Known Member

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    Just removed mine this past weekend. It's a few bolts on each side (10mm socket) and some clips. Once you remove the bolts, just grip along the edged and pull hard. It takes some force and you might brake a clip or two... but they're easily replaceable.
     
  18. Feb 27, 2019 at 3:50 PM
    #18
    Cardsallday13

    Cardsallday13 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I opened up my back door and it already had come kinda foam thing covering the big hole next to the speaker
     
  19. Feb 27, 2019 at 3:50 PM
    #19
    Cardsallday13

    Cardsallday13 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Not sure I'm going to go through with the doors. Might do the back wall instead
     
  20. Feb 27, 2019 at 4:00 PM
    #20
    avi8or_co

    avi8or_co Well-Known Member

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    Those fill the 2 access holes into the middle section of the door, all of the doors have them. It does very little to suppress noise.
     

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