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OBA -> On Board Air Mega Thread & BS

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by MJonaGS32, Oct 20, 2013.

  1. Oct 20, 2016 at 9:40 AM
    #981
    MJonaGS32

    MJonaGS32 [OP] MJ on a GS

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    SF Bay Area (East)
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    07 Mid-Travel 4x4 DCSB 6spd
    Kings Mid Travel, BAMF bed rack, RTT, dual battery, OBA, ARB locker, 4.56 gears
    This is more of a FYI in case anyone else is doing something similar

    [​IMG]

    I run my rear locker off my OBA set up with a pressure regulator right next to the ARB solenoid. I was wondering why my cab was starting to smell like gear oil. Come to find out that my ARB air line is acting like a secondary extended diff breather (which I already have - extended to the gas door) and gear oil was leaking through the solenoid and all over my stuff. I just ordered a ball valve lever that I'll be putting in-line right before the solenoid and just flipping it on when I'm on the trails. Hopefully that will limit how much gear oil travels upward into the solenoid.
     
    jqueener and Crom like this.
  2. Oct 20, 2016 at 12:55 PM
    #982
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Bilsteins, OME 881's, 3-leaf AAL, Detroit TruTrac, 31" tires, Michelin LTX AT2, Tranny skidplate, TC skidplate, CBI rear bumper, TG sliders, UltraGauge, PowerTank, Reverse Camera, CB
    I read (online) that there are seals in the diff that are supposed to prevent the air line getting contaminated with oil.
    The seal has gone bad, or installation error.
     
    ramonortiz55 likes this.
  3. Oct 21, 2016 at 6:55 AM
    #983
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 LRGRNR

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    I had a similar issue except my tank was being filled with gear oil... ECGS did a warranty job on it and said the seals were installed correctly , checked everything else and said it was all correct too. I think the ARB design just isn't leak proof and the locker act as a suction somehow. When I disconnected the air line from the diff and drove around there was still oil being pushed out.
     
    MJonaGS32 and Crom like this.
  4. Oct 24, 2016 at 2:41 PM
    #984
    inv3ctiv3

    inv3ctiv3 Well-Known Member

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    Figured I'd do a little write-up on my OBA set up that I put in this weekend, hopefully it comes in handy for someone. A lot of this was already covered in @Crom thread which I'm sure everyone has already seen and I won't be going over my aux battery set up that's a whole separate thing.

    Parts list:
    ARB Twin Compressor
    ARB Air Chuck
    Flexzilla 1/4" x 25' Air Hose (I used this as the fill up line connected to the air chuck)
    Flexzilla 3/8" x 25' Air Hose (I used this one to go from the braided line to the bumper)
    4AWG Welding Cable (I ran this from the starting battery to the bed for power)
    4AWG 1/4" Lug
    1/4" FPT to 3/8" Barb (Braided line to 3/8" hose running to bumper)
    90 Degree Elbow (from compressor to braided line)
    18AWG Wire (used to run from the bed to the switch and switch to battery)
    Viar 18" Steel Braided Line
    1/4" FPT V-style Plug
    1/4" FPT Quick Disconnect (you'll need two of these, one for bumper and one for hose)
    Two way switch (this is up to you, depends on what style you want and where you put it)

    Now there are some items I used like bolts, screws, wiring, etc that you won't need if you're not mounting it the way I did but you'll need basic tools, good drill bits, solder, shrink wrap, zip ties, different gauge wiring, pipe tape, etc.

    So I don't have a lot of photos of wiring it up but it should be pretty straight forward, you take the big power harness that has the two big fuses and run those wires together into the 4AWG wire and route that to the starting battery, then take the black wires and run those together into another section of 4AWG wire and ground it to whatever you can that's closest to the compressor. Next up cut the connector off the other ARB harness and there is one purple (power) wire and one black (ground wire). I ran the ground into the other grounds to the 4AWG ground and then ran the purple wire to the cab for one side of the switch using 18AWG wire and then the other side of the switch got ran through the firewall to the starting battery, it's super simple. I didn't use ARB's switch even thought I wanted to, it's just too big and didn't fit anywhere so I went to radioshack and bought a switch that would fit on one of the blanks below the climate control:

    [​IMG]

    I drilled a hole into the blank and then hot glued around behind the switch in the blank so it would be clean and not have glue everywhere:

    [​IMG]

    I gently pried the blank out with a small flathead making sure not to eat up the dash, you could also drill a small hole and pull it out if you want, I used an old clothes hanger straightened out to run the 18AWG wire from along the drivers doorsill and over the pedals and through the opening.

    [​IMG]

    Quickly soldered up the switch with one wire running to the starting battery and one running back to the switch and viola!

    [​IMG]

    I mounted the compressor using the compressor mounts stock holes, just took the mount off the compressor and held it up to the tool box, marked the holes and drilled them making sure everything was straight and would clear. I also drilled a few vent holes just under the lip of the lid of the toolbox so it would get air and ventilation because these do get very hot.

    [​IMG]

    Now my toolbox is mounted to the composite bed so I did have to drill another hole for the braided line and made sure it would clear that black box that's below the bed and above the axle/gas tank area so the hose wouldn't be crimped or at a funny angle.

    [​IMG]

    Used the barbed fitting for this:

    [​IMG]

    Ran it along the frame rail:

    [​IMG]

    The zip ties are temporary I'll be using big hose clamps or something else to secure the hose to the hitch:

    [​IMG]

    I also had to drill a hole in my @Pelfreybilt HC rear bumper for the quick disconnect:

    [​IMG]

    And here you go, just get a little chair stopper to cover the QD and you're good to go!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I hope this helped and if anyone has any specific questions just PM me.
     
  5. Oct 24, 2016 at 3:14 PM
    #985
    jqueener

    jqueener Well-Known Member

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    Sacramento, CA
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    2006 dcsb 4x4 trd sport
    LR UCA's Kings ext rmlt resi 700lb springs. Rear ARB locker all pro expos u-bolt flip Armor BAMF sliders with kick out All pro apex front all pro ifs skid Pelfreybilt Off-Road mid and transfer skids all pro hi clear rear bumper Wheels 285/70/17 dura tracs on MB TKO matt black 17x 8.5" gears 4.56 OBA viair 450c with 2.5 tank. engo 10k winch
    I need to inspect mine as I installed mine pretty much the same way in the same location, I thought I got a hint of gear oil smell the other day.
     
  6. Oct 24, 2016 at 3:17 PM
    #986
    jqueener

    jqueener Well-Known Member

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    Sacramento, CA
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    2006 dcsb 4x4 trd sport
    LR UCA's Kings ext rmlt resi 700lb springs. Rear ARB locker all pro expos u-bolt flip Armor BAMF sliders with kick out All pro apex front all pro ifs skid Pelfreybilt Off-Road mid and transfer skids all pro hi clear rear bumper Wheels 285/70/17 dura tracs on MB TKO matt black 17x 8.5" gears 4.56 OBA viair 450c with 2.5 tank. engo 10k winch
    they changed the design on them a yr or so ago to prevent this maybe he has the old design or the new design didn't fix the problem.
     
  7. Oct 31, 2016 at 9:45 AM
    #987
    Crom

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  8. Oct 31, 2016 at 9:49 AM
    #988
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 LRGRNR

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    Crom likes this.
  9. Oct 31, 2016 at 9:56 AM
    #989
    CaptainReverso

    CaptainReverso Instagram @ CaptainReverso

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    Full weather tech floor mats, hid fog and headlights, window tint, Yotamac aux fuse plate, black plasti dip badges. 4' saber whip. Infinity kappa 6x9 front speakers, Infinity kappa 6.5 rear speaker, full Icon stage 4 suspention with billet upper control arms, prinsu design roof rack
    Hey guys I am selling an ARB TWIN AIR COMPRESSOR 24VOLT CKMTA24 it is new but was sent to me with very minor cosmetic scratches. So the company sent me a new one and got a deal on this. But I do not need it. It is a complete compressor. Wiring , air filter, switch ECT. Just no original box. Looking for $380 shipped on your dime
     
  10. Oct 31, 2016 at 10:30 AM
    #990
    Crom

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    Thanks. I'm really happy with it now. :)
     
  11. Nov 4, 2016 at 8:38 PM
    #991
    WhiteNight

    WhiteNight Well-Known Member

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    Hmmm pictures
     
  12. Nov 4, 2016 at 10:31 PM
    #992
    CaptainReverso

    CaptainReverso Instagram @ CaptainReverso

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    IMG_20160119_161740574.jpg
    IMG_20160516_175428914.jpg
     
  13. Nov 5, 2016 at 7:07 AM
    #993
    Crom

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    Put it on eBay. Nobody here has 24V to feed that.
     
  14. Nov 5, 2016 at 4:57 PM
    #994
    Stickerice85

    Stickerice85 Well-Known Member

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    As per the ARB install instructions for the twin compressor........the Red/Yellow wire to "ignition" and Blue/White wire to "dash illumination". If you did that, where is the "ignition" and "dash illumination" wires located at?
     
  15. Nov 5, 2016 at 5:46 PM
    #995
    inv3ctiv3

    inv3ctiv3 Well-Known Member

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    I didn't do the little LED light in the switch I don't care about having that.
     
  16. Nov 5, 2016 at 6:07 PM
    #996
    G.T.

    G.T. Official TW Burrito Inspector

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    Forwarding to a Land Cruiser buddy, his is 24v like mine.
     
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  17. Nov 6, 2016 at 7:01 PM
    #997
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 LRGRNR

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    @JimboAnz for Josh
    @nastyneight for Jason

    *both have diesel conversions running 24v
     
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  18. Nov 7, 2016 at 6:12 PM
    #998
    sasquatch95

    sasquatch95 Well-Known Member

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    Hey everyone. What is the best tire inflator with gauge?
     
  19. Nov 7, 2016 at 6:13 PM
    #999
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 LRGRNR

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    @Crom
     
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  20. Nov 7, 2016 at 6:15 PM
    #1000
    Crom

    Crom Outside

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    Best is relative.

    I'm using the ARB. It's good value for $30. Probably better for more $$$, but I'm happy.
     

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