OBA -> On Board Air Mega Thread & BS

https://m.northerntool.com/products...ors > Air Hose Reels&utm_source=Google_PLA

 

You should take a look at my cubby caps (sig) they help to greatly reduce the amount of crap that gets flung into the cubbies. Not perfect but a good help.

 

For those with a tank. How long does your tank hold pressure? Trying to figure out if I have a leak or if it’s normal to loose a couple pounds over time. For instance go from 150psi to 90psi in a day.

My setup thus far. I have a lot of cleanup and I still have to wire up the switches for the compressor. Currently just “hotwiring” it tonsee if I need to make changes.

 

Push to connects can leak and the higher the pressure the faster the drop but 60psi in a day sounds like a problem. Make sure they're fully seated in the fitting, sometimes the tubing resists that last 1/8" in the docking maneuver. Also, if the air line goes out of round when it's cut it can leak. I use a bit of metal tubing to hold the shape stable and provide a square guide for a razor knife and that seems to work. Haven't tried the dedicated tubing cutters as they look pretty cheap for what they cost. To maintain tank pressure and sidestep some of the ptc issues I'm using barb connectors at the tank and the solenoid that feeds the manifold since those are semi permanent installs. If needed, you can use a QR coupling (supposed to be pressure tight) and barb fitting to make the tank detachable. Also, lube the draincock and make sure it turns freely and closes fully(things are sometimes sticky af). Its recommended also to use a braided line for the first 18-24" from the compressor since the compresssor gets pretty hot.

 

You have a leak. A sealed system realistically Shound not leak more than a few psi in a day.

 

Thanks. I am using the push connect fittings, which I may have to change to braided from the compressor and the tank. I will have to go back and double check the push fittings. Soap and water may be in order to see for leaks. I will look into those other fittings. The fittings I have are good up to 200psi, so I will double check as I got them in a kit which was $50 so who knows the quality....

 

thats what I was thinking. Thanks. Some soap and Water are in order

 

You definitely have a leak somewhere to investigate, and a completely sealed system is possible. It appears you're using tape instead of Loctite 565. I never used 565 prior to putting my OBA system together, but mine holds pressure indefinitely. I've gone months without turning on the compressor, and it was still holding full pressure. So you might try that...

 

Definitely something I will look into. If the soap and water test fails I will go back and redo the fittings. My initial water test passed but maybe I need more soap.


Something that I just found is that I dont have a check valve going from the compressor into the manifold. I understand that leaks in the system are still possible, but may change that over as I do have one at home.

 

Another thing worth mentioning is that 565 is very forgiving. I had multiple fittings that I glued, removed, glued again, basically made a real mess out of, and half expected to leak. They didn't. I would also avoid those push-to-connect fittings all together and swap out with compression fittings. As someone else already mentioned, that is likely your issue, but avoiding hose fittings in general is ideal. I ended up with only two compression fittings at either end of the tank line, and everything else was plumbed with hard fittings. That included a regulator, gauge/switch, pressure switch, tank, compressor, and hose reel for main components.

 

may switch it all to compression fittings. Have to do a bit more research I guess. Bought a kit to save some mulla, but may be paying in the long run...oh well another lesson learned. Will try the easy/cheap things first and go from there.

 

Semi trucks use the push tight an they don’t leak. You proably messed up on one of the ends or somthing.

 

most likely. Start with the easiest things first and go from there. Appreciate the reassurance on the fittings though as setting this up has been a huge learning curve for me lol.

 

The best systems out there are found on air ride suspension setups. Those guys typically only run hard lines which require additional tools and money, but man they look awesome. For your setup that might be another consideration since everything is visible. We just love spending your money

 

Definitely need a check valve from the compressor or it will bleed back through the compressor and not show on a leak test of fittings. The compressor "valves" are just flaps made to open and close quickly and don't really seal the way a spring loaded check valve will.

 

I was considering this for a main line and using shark bites....like you said though....money.

It does look sharp though.....

 

Is that an ARB thing? The VIAIR I'm using included a check valve that seems to be working flawlessly.

 

Don't know but a check valve is a separate item. ARB may use better valvilng but I thought even they included a check valve with their complete systems.I'd put money on it that the problem is the missing check valve. To be honest it's something I didn't consider when I started buying my parts but included after more reading.

 

I know it's separate from the compressor, but like I said the VIAIR comes with a check valve and braided line from the compressor. I can't believe the way more expensive ARB does not, but maybe that's the case.

 

Sorry, quoted you but the intent was to inform t16 about the problem. I do believe ARB includes one with their complete kits but I've also seen Vair compressors sold as kits or with just the compressor alone. My knowledge of the valving comes from opening the head of an MV50 not one of the better units but given that the check valve is included with even higher end units indicates it's at least a good idea and probably a necessity.