OEM Glass Breakage Sensor Installation

Help me out and I will gladly tell you the polarity when I get there. So is "A/C" air conditioner? So if he has automatic air conditioner it will be pins 1 and 6, but if he has a manual system it's 1 and 12? sorry I'm not quite getting this. Should I try to tap into plug M6? Will they be the same regardless?

The truck I will be installing is a 2019 TRD Sport manual transmission. I'll have to find out which air conditioner he has. Update - it looks like he has a automatic air conditioner.

Where is M6 located? Seems like it will be pin 15 regardless. So if I can find M6, pin 15 and is pin 1 the ground? I should tap into there, right?

 

A/C = Air Conditioner
1 & 6
M6 is easier to access, I like to avoid cutting into the OEM harness. Location of M6 is above the cabin fuses.

2020+ has additional connector spots not used, above an below M6.

 

Ok, if we want it clean, it will be easier to rebuild the A33 plugs. Is A33 located behind the center console above the switches? Based on your part numbers in post #181 I ordered m/f plugs and appropriate pins from Digi-key. Hopefully I got the right stuff. I don't plan to rebuild M6. I'll gladly tap into it, but I don't want to do 30 pins and wires. Sixteen seems a little easier.

But again, A33 is located behind the center console?

 

Yes

 

@Bad-Dawg, I haven't seen the part# or picture of the small form factor microphone that has an indicator LED. The pic on link I posted (#51) shows it has an LED, but I can't confirm it.

 

Confirmed: PT398-00070-CM is the short version with the LED indicator. Shown in post #70

 

Thanks, now I know who was the person that was going to confirm the polarity of the LED.

 

Haha you know I am slow at getting things done. I have like 5 mods all in various states of completion. I do plan on tearing the dash apart soon to finish the LED connections for the glass break sensor, I was wrapping up some custom harnesses for other things before I tore it all apart. I'll be replacing the lower panel with the center dash switches so damn near everything gets torn out just to get to it. Of course now that I see the parts list to make a breakout harness for A33 to capture the security LED signals, I'll order up those parts to do it properly.

You wouldn't happen to have the part numbers for either digi-key or hi-1000ec for the connectors and pins to create a breakout harness for connectors IC3 and IS3, would ya? Those are the last two holding me up, would rather do breakouts than taps if possible.

 

PM @kmorgan3 for the IC3 info. Seems the IS3 is still not available for sale.

 

Any recommendations on where to get decent 20 gauge automotive wire? All the automotive stores only go down to 18 gauge.

 

https://www.westmarine.com/ancor-20-8-round-signal-cable-by-the-foot-541748.html
Remove cover and use internal wires.

 

(2nd Gen connector)

 

Thanks! I was going to tell you the polarity, but I'm still waiting for my short mic sensor with LED to arrive. Everything should be here by the weekend.

Now just to make sure, I can tie pin 1 of the A33 extension harness to pin 1 of the GBS extension harness? Like post #181. Because the GBS kit does not have pins 1 and 2 populated with anything.

 

Yes

 

While your at it, if you plan on adding other switches to that area (Like the MESO option panel) you could do this:

 

@caribe makaira

If we can get an IGN source feed out of A33, then I won't need to do a tap at IC3. Two of the OEM Toyota accessories I have tap the gray IGN wire at pin 8 on IC3 which I believe is the power mirror circuit running off a 7.5a fuse. Do you know what all is on that IGN circuit in the A33 connector? Would be nice to know how much we could safely connect there without causing any overload problems.

 

That is why I suggest you use the IGN source as a trigger. (See relay detail on my posts)

 

Some of my parts showed up. Started working on the mic sensor extension. I'm not happy with my pin crimper, so I'll try another one. The black and red wires will tie into the A33 extension.

 

I also installed the glass break sensor on a non alarm truck, after activating the security in techstream i couldnt get it to arm because the hood latch jumper is different (per the instructions) so the truck thinks the hood is open. i have a feeling that if this can be bypassed it might arm the security system. @caribe makaira is this possible?