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OEM Heated Mirrors DIY mod

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas' started by Benson X, Dec 18, 2011.

  1. Benson X

    Benson X [OP] ...and we're back!

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    Debadged, Black Toyota Emblem, TRD Emblem, Tint, Leer 100XL w/ Thule Tracker II rails, aFe Stage II Si Pro Dry-S CAI, aFe Mach Power 3" cat-back exhaust, Doug Thorley Y-Pipe, Bedmat, Weathertech liners, Weathertech window vents, Redline Hood Struts, 12v Anytime Mod, Maglight Mod, FOB/Seatbelt Mod, Rear Diff. Breather Mod, OEM Heated Mirrors Mod, OME 886 Coils w/ 90k Nitro Shocks up front, OME N182 Shocks with Dakars and a D29XL AAL in back, Light Racing UCAs, 1/2" Toytec Front Spacers, swaybar delete Mod, (4) 1" BORA Wheel Spacers, 285/70R17 Goodyear MT/R (originals), hidden Cobra 19DX IV w/ 4' Firestik on a Relentless Mount, custom Sliders, ARB Bumper, Warn VR-8000s w/ Syn. line, custom Tool/Hi-Lift mounts, custom Engine Bay and Winch-area LEDs, csJumper interior LEDs, custom TRD Skull Decal, 10" SeeLite LED light-bar custom mounted in the grille, custom Front & Mid skidplate, Garmin 60CSX GPS w/ RAM mounts....RAN OUT OF
    [​IMG]

    This is a guide to install Toyota Sienna heated side mirrors and a Toyota Highlander switch. I wanted an almost 100% OEM solution for heated mirrors that was safe, relatively easy, and efficient. I will list all necessary parts and tools as well as prices and links below.

    Note: This is the install I put together after much research on TW and helpful input from other members. Thanks to tsilliker, shawnd2, CtryBoyInMT, 84Hilux, bgreenley, and OldEric11 for the innovative ideas, answers, suggestions, and assistance.

    The whole project took me about 9 hours, but it could probably be done in 5-6 hours if I were to do it again.

    I am not going to waste my time posting pics and instructions on how to take your doors and dash apart. There are numerous posts, pics, videos on here for guides, like this one that explains how to take the door panels off. Here is another link from shawnd2 that is great step-by-step for removing the door panels and the mirror housing http://www.muthco.com/epapers/21001150.pdf (sorry there are no bikini-clad women, just some guy's man-hands)

    This is a long thread with lots of detail and pictures. I do not in any way consider myself to be an electrical expert, and I accept no responsibility for any harm, damage, or injury that comes from anyone attempting this mod. If you have any suggestions or improvements, please feel free to leave civilized comments, or PM me.

    PARTS NEEDED: Most of this stuff can be found at your local auto store and Toyota dealer. I like to support true local businesses, but you can save some money by ordering on line if you prefer.

    *UPDATE* The 2012 Highlander Heated Mirror Glass works as a Direct Replacement for the '05-'13 Tacoma (thus eliminating the need to transfer/modify the plastic backplate if using the Sienna mirrors - thanks to File IFR for the info. :thumbsup:)

    *UPDATE*[SIZE=2]For the guys with[SIZE=2]out "switch[SIZE=2]-blanks" ne[SIZE=2]ar the steering wheel[SIZE=2] (TRD-OR models), [U][B][COLOR=Red]SCROLL TO THE BOTTOM[/COLOR][/B][/U][SIZE=2]. Member bgreenley did a great write-up on how to add a[SIZE=2]n OEM switch under the HVAC control with a timer-relay, and super clean install instructions. [B]- THANKS BRANDON!!![/B][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE]


    Toyota Highlander Mirror Left Part No. 87961-0E070 = $50
    Toyota Highlander Mirror Right Part No. 87931-0E080 = $50
    *(see above) Toyota Sienna Heated Mirror Left Part No. 87961-AE020 = $50
    *(see above) Toyota Sienna Heated Mirror Right Part No. 87931-AE020 = $50
    Toyota Highlander Mirror Switch Part No. 84871-48030 = $60
    Toyota Amber Bulb (optional) Part No. 90011-01058 = $4
    Toyota Highlander Mirror Switch plugPart No. 90980-10789 = $5
    Toyota Terminal Leads (x5) Part No. 82998-12340 = $5/ea.
    ($30)

    10 Amp ATM Fuse Tap = $7
    SPST or SPDT Relay = $3
    SPST or SPDT Plug= $1
    14-16 gauge QuickSplices (x3) = $3
    14-16 gauge butt connectors (x4) = $1 +/-
    14-16 gauge 1/4" Ring Terminals (x3) = $1 +/-
    .110" 16 gauge Female Spade Terminals
    (x4) = $1 +/-
    .187" 16-22 gauge Male/Female Terminals (x2) = $1 +/-
    30' 16 AWG Primary Wire (various colors) = $6
    HeatShrink Tubing (various sizes) = $4

    TOTAL $204 (give or take a few bucks)

    TOOLS NEEDED:
    Wire Cutters
    Wire Crimpers
    Wire Strippers
    Needle Nose Pliers
    Large Philips head screwdriver
    Various Flathead screwdrivers (from Micro to Large)
    Soldering Iron (optional)
    Panel Removal Tool (wrapped in electrical tape)
    Various Zipties
    Electrical Tape
    Corrugated Conduit (optional)
    Coathanger or Wirepuller
    Scissors and/or Utility Knife
    Torx Bit driver or Wrench
    Dremel type hand-tool
    Vise-Grips
    10mm Socket
    LIGHT!!!

    APPROX. WIRE LENGTHS

    Driver's +12v Mirror Lead (.110" Female spade to Quick-Splice to Relay 87) = 60"

    Passenger +12v Mirror Lead (.110" Female spade to Quick-Splice) = 140"
    Mirror Ground Leadsx2 (.110" Female spade to 1/4" ring terminal) = 30"/each
    Fuse-Tap (Quick-Splice from Switch #5 Lead to Fuse-Taps butt connector)= 8"
    (5) Switch +12v Lead (Sumitomo to butt connector to Relay 30) = 24"
    (4) Switch (Sumitomo to butt connector to Relay 85) = 24"
    (3) Switch Ground(Sumitomo to 1/4" ring terminal) = 13"
    (2) Switch (Sumitomo to .187" female spade) = 5"
    (1) Switch (Sumitomo to .187" female spade) = 5"



    STEP 1: Unplug the battery then Remove Mirror Glass

    Gently press on the top of your mirror glass to create a gap on the bottom. You can slide a flat-head in the gap and into the small recessed areas of the white mount plate. "Pop" the glass out from the mount plate and pull down and out to remove.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    STEP 2:
    Remove the Backplates from all mirrors (2x Tacoma, 2x Sienna)


    *UPDATE* The 2012 Highlander Heated Mirror Glass works as a Direct-Replacement for the Tacoma (thus eliminating the need to transfer/modify the plastic backplate if using the Sienna mirrors - thanks to File IFR for the info. [SIZE=2]:thumbsup:[SIZE=2])
    [/SIZE][/SIZE]


    Toyota Highlander Mirror Left Part No. [URL="http://www.oemtoyotascionparts.com/oem-part/toyota/highlander-parts/2012/limited/3-5l-v6-gas/body-hardware/outside-mirrors/mirror-glass-left/87961-0e070"]87961-0E070[/URL][SIZE=2] = $50[/SIZE]
    Toyota Highlander Mirror Right Part No. [URL="http://www.oemtoyotascionparts.com/oem-part/toyota/highlander-parts/2012/limited/3-5l-v6-gas/body-hardware/outside-mirrors/mirror-glass-right/87931-0e080"]87931-0E080[/URL] = $50


    I recommend heating the black plastic with a hairdryer to make it more pliable. Then use an expendable credit card to separate the glass from the backplate. The Tacoma glass has a foam pad behind it that is slightly adhesive. The Sienna glass has a "sticky-tack" type of putty in various areas behind it.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    SIENNA MIRROR ON THE LEFT---------------------------TACOMA MIRROR ON THE RIGHT
    [​IMG]


    STEP 3:
    WIDEN THE HOLE!!!


    The hole on the Tacoma backplate is too small to accommodate the terminal leads on the Sienna mirror and will need to be widened with a Dremel or file.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    When putting the Sienna mirrors in the Tacoma backplate, I left the white putty on the Passenger Side to give it a more convex view. I didn't need any foam or putty on the driver's side, but you can add some at your discretion.
    [​IMG]


    STEP 4:
    ASSEMBLE YOUR CIRCUIT

    I followed these directions from CtryBoyInMT and they worked fine. He updated his diagram to explain in more detail the correct relay setup. Thanks for the clarification! :thumbsup:

    [​IMG]

    The Sumitomo Terminals fit perfectly. The 16ga. wire was very snug, and I would not recommend going any bigger than that.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    I had to splice into the Illumination Dimmer wires from the Fog Light switch in order to connect the #1 & #2 Switch Plugs. I followed the wire layout on the Fog Light switch and used SOLID GREEN for Plug #1, and GREEN w/WHITE for Plug #2.
    [​IMG]


    I soldered the splices and used .187" Male/Female quick-connect terminals and heat shrinked everything.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    STEP 5:
    RUN THE MIRROR LEADS

    Disassemble the door panels, kick panels, dash, and glove box, and unplug all necessary connectors. Remove the speaker from each door. Unplug the mirror plugs.

    There are numerous posts, pics, videos on here to refer to for this. This one explains how to take the door panels off. Here is another link from shawnd2 that is great step-by-step for removing the door panels and the mirror housing http://www.muthco.com/epapers/21001150.pdf (sorry there are no bikini-clad women, just some guy's man-hands)


    Remove the mirror assembly from each door and disassemble.
    The plug-cover will need to be removed in order to fit it through the openings.
    [​IMG]


    Take note the orientation of the plastic protective sheath around the wires. it will be easier to re-assemble the mirror housing if it's not all kinked up. I chose to run the wires inside the plastic shielded sheath with the rest of the wires, but most people will probably just run them along the sheath.


    I used .110" Female Spade terminals to plug connect to the Sienna mirror tab terminals. I fed both leads through the shield, and heat shrinked the sh*t out of them since they will be the most exposed component.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    After weaseling the leads through the mirror assembly, and putting it back together, make sure you have at least 7 1/2" hanging out for mirror plug in the door (don't forget to slip the clip back on the plug either).


    I crimped a 1/4" Ring Terminal on each 30" mirror Ground lead. I then grounded each mirror to this bolt inside the door.
    [​IMG]


    Next, feed the +12v mirror lead through the door and into the cab. After about 15 minutes of struggling with a taped-up hangar, I found it was much easier to "unplug" both sides of the boot. I taped some extra length of Zip-Tie to my wire, fed it through, and plugged the boot back in....easy
    [​IMG]

    Note:
    For the passenger side, I wrapped the lead in 3/8" black plastic conduit, and ran it along the silver frame tube behind the dash, and used some Zip-Ties along the way.



    STEP 6:
    INSTALL YOUR CIRCUIT

    I mounted my relay here (there's an open hole on a metal mount up and to the left of the brake pedal). I had an 5-Pin SPDT Relay, so I disconnected terminal 87a (RED) since it was not needed, and used 87 (YELLOW) only.
    [​IMG]


    I borrowed one of the plastic retainers from the hood release cable, and put my driver's side +12v lead in it.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Here is where I mounted the Ground for the Switch (#3 Plug)
    [​IMG]


    The Switch is ready to be plugged in
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]



    Here is the Fuse Tap. I tapped into the "Gauges" fuse and had to make sure I had room, since the orientation of the Fuse Tap is important. I added a 10A fuse (might be overkill), and had to install a 7.5A fuse for the "Gauges" Circuit. This is an ignition controlled circuit, and my heated mirrors will only work when the ignition is turned ON. The switch itself has a 15 minute timer, so it will turn off after 15 minutes, or if you press the button again or turn the ignition off. BE AWARE - The standard fuses are Low-Profile ATM fuses, whereas the Fuse Tap takes standard ATM fuses. (the diagrams I had on here were deleted, sorry)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    I connected an 8" Lead from the Fuse-Tap butt connector to the Quick-Splice from the #5 Switch Lead (which also ties into Relay 86 & 30).

    Give all wires a good once over. Tape, Zip-Tie, use conduit as much as desired, make sure everything looks safe and secure. Plug everything in, re-assemble the dash, instrument panel, doors, kick panels etc. Re-Connect your battery, turn on the ignition.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    CRACK OPEN A COLD ONE AND ENJOY YOUR TOASTY MIRRORS!!!!

    http://youtu.be/j1fvnj0Ux4Q



    :mudding:
    >>>*UPDATE* FOR THE THOSE WITH TRD-OR TACOS (with no switch blanks) <<<

    So, a new member
    bgreenley (Brandon) contacted me regarding my inquiry to find a solution for TRD OR trucks that don't have switch blank by the steering wheel. We went back and forth bouncing ideas off each-other, trying to piece together a method that would work. He put together this awesome write-up as a supplemental addition to the OEM Heated Mirror Mod! Original Thread located HERE (http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...em-heated-mirror-option-off-road-package.html)

    Mad props to
    bgreenley for putting this together, and making it work. Make sure to give him some rep, and welcome him as a new TW Member!!! :headbang:


     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2013
  2. shawnd2

    shawnd2 Well-Known Member

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    Great job with the write up and in cleaning up the pages of the other thread.
    The only thing I might add to your above write up is this link:

    http://www.muthco.com/epapers/21001150.pdf

    It shows step by step how to remove the door panels and how to disassemble the mirrors in order to run the wires.

    I apologize in advance for cluttering up your cleaned version.

    Shawn
     
  3. BUZZCUT

    BUZZCUT Well-Known Member

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    This is sticky worthy. Mods please do so.
     
  4. 84Hilux

    84Hilux Well-Known Member

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    Awesome write-up! Congratulations on your install.
     
  5. Joben7726

    Joben7726 wes mantooth ™

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    more than list-able
  6. IluvTEA

    IluvTEA Well-Known Member

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    Awesome job!! I'll have to add this to my mod list!
     
  7. redz80

    redz80 Well-Known Member

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    great write up i will be doing this for sure....subed for later
     
  8. shawnd2

    shawnd2 Well-Known Member

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    There is only one 87 terminal on a 4 terminal relay shown. Why try and confuse things?

    Shawn
     
  9. shawnd2

    shawnd2 Well-Known Member

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  10. Benson X

    Benson X [OP] ...and we're back!

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    Debadged, Black Toyota Emblem, TRD Emblem, Tint, Leer 100XL w/ Thule Tracker II rails, aFe Stage II Si Pro Dry-S CAI, aFe Mach Power 3" cat-back exhaust, Doug Thorley Y-Pipe, Bedmat, Weathertech liners, Weathertech window vents, Redline Hood Struts, 12v Anytime Mod, Maglight Mod, FOB/Seatbelt Mod, Rear Diff. Breather Mod, OEM Heated Mirrors Mod, OME 886 Coils w/ 90k Nitro Shocks up front, OME N182 Shocks with Dakars and a D29XL AAL in back, Light Racing UCAs, 1/2" Toytec Front Spacers, swaybar delete Mod, (4) 1" BORA Wheel Spacers, 285/70R17 Goodyear MT/R (originals), hidden Cobra 19DX IV w/ 4' Firestik on a Relentless Mount, custom Sliders, ARB Bumper, Warn VR-8000s w/ Syn. line, custom Tool/Hi-Lift mounts, custom Engine Bay and Winch-area LEDs, csJumper interior LEDs, custom TRD Skull Decal, 10" SeeLite LED light-bar custom mounted in the grille, custom Front & Mid skidplate, Garmin 60CSX GPS w/ RAM mounts....RAN OUT OF
    Good suggestion, added. I have the TacoTunes video on there, but I hadn't seen this Muth write-up. Thanks!

    In theory you're correct, but the system works just as it's supposed to as it is. I just converted an SPDT Relay to an SPST relay as used in CtryBoyInMT's wiring diagram. With the ignition off, there's no power to the mirrors, and the switch doesn't function. Ignition on and switch on, the mirrors will be heated for 15 minutes, unless you press the switch again or turn the car off. I don't know a nicer way to say that you're incorrect, and it works just fine the way I did it.
     
  11. shawnd2

    shawnd2 Well-Known Member

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    I see what you are saying, and I wasn't trying to be a prick, just wanted to keep things simple and not deter people from doing this mod.

    The schematics shows to use 87b (not 87a). If you look at the OP's picture, he is using the Yellow wire on the socket which goes to 87, not 87a.

    See attached pic.

    Shawn
     
  12. shawnd2

    shawnd2 Well-Known Member

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    Sorry Pic didn't upload, see attached.

    Shawn

    Relay.jpg
     
  13. Benson X

    Benson X [OP] ...and we're back!

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    Debadged, Black Toyota Emblem, TRD Emblem, Tint, Leer 100XL w/ Thule Tracker II rails, aFe Stage II Si Pro Dry-S CAI, aFe Mach Power 3" cat-back exhaust, Doug Thorley Y-Pipe, Bedmat, Weathertech liners, Weathertech window vents, Redline Hood Struts, 12v Anytime Mod, Maglight Mod, FOB/Seatbelt Mod, Rear Diff. Breather Mod, OEM Heated Mirrors Mod, OME 886 Coils w/ 90k Nitro Shocks up front, OME N182 Shocks with Dakars and a D29XL AAL in back, Light Racing UCAs, 1/2" Toytec Front Spacers, swaybar delete Mod, (4) 1" BORA Wheel Spacers, 285/70R17 Goodyear MT/R (originals), hidden Cobra 19DX IV w/ 4' Firestik on a Relentless Mount, custom Sliders, ARB Bumper, Warn VR-8000s w/ Syn. line, custom Tool/Hi-Lift mounts, custom Engine Bay and Winch-area LEDs, csJumper interior LEDs, custom TRD Skull Decal, 10" SeeLite LED light-bar custom mounted in the grille, custom Front & Mid skidplate, Garmin 60CSX GPS w/ RAM mounts....RAN OUT OF
    Caribe - Here's a video I just took showing the switch operating properly. I think you were confused because I listed 87a as my powered lead, when in fact it was 87. I edited my post to indicate that I used #87 (YELLOW) only, and I removed the 87a (RED) lead from the relay plug itself. Hopefully this will avoid further confusion.

    http://youtu.be/j1fvnj0Ux4Q
     
  14. Scalded_Dawg

    Scalded_Dawg Not as new as my post count would appear

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    Expertly done!! Sub'd for future mod list!
    Thanks for the write up!!
     
  15. TnRedNeck721

    TnRedNeck721 GO VOLS!

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    sup. me likely allot!!
     
  16. zul

    zul Professional Goofball

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    Subbed! I want to do this.
     
  17. 2011TRDSPORT

    2011TRDSPORT Well-Known Member

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    Awesome write up.. Got my switch, will order the mirrors soon. The rest of the stuff I will get from work for almost free. I'm excited!

    I am a mechanic for a semi truck dealership up here in Canada. On the big trucks there are usually a few open spots in the fuse panel with dead ended wires throughout the vehicle to add accessories like lights etc. I'm assuming our trucks don't have this or is it just easier to use the add-a-fuse?

    Thanks guys...
     
  18. CtryBoyInMT

    CtryBoyInMT Lifetime Member

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    Additional Relay Information:

    87 and 87b is NO (Normally Open)
    87a is NC (Normally Closed)

    On various relays the "87b" may be coded "87" if only one NO terminal is present.
    The schematic drawn on you specific relay may be confusing.
    The NC terminal is generally located in the center most terminal (if there is one) and is not used in this application.
    Even though the diagram on your specific relay itself may show it to be on the outside terminal.
    Compare your relay and make sure you have proper terminals wired.
    And Questions please ask and I (Or BensonX I assume) will guide you to the heat.
     
  19. puckstopper55

    puckstopper55 Well-Known Member

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    this is awesome, but I wont attempt until the spring .. its too cold outside .. If anyone wants to make a few $, order some parts and sell "kits". Id spend an extra few to make a 1 stop order.
     
  20. hookedontronics

    hookedontronics Well-Known Member

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    #28863
    Messages:
    2,791
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jake
    Glenville, NY
    Vehicle:
    2010 DC Off Road 4x4
    Icon extended travel 3.5" front coilovers, DSM UCAs, TSB leaf pack w/ wheelers AAL, All Pro U-bolt flip kit, Walker Evans 2.0 rear shocks, 18" XD Monster rims, Nitto trail grappler 285/65R18 Tires, Color matched grill, Grillcraft, Kragen HIDs, Carling switches, my bed light mod, diff drop, Alpine IVA-W505, JL Audio C5 componets and coaxials, JL 300/4 and 250/1 amps and JL stealthbox, wheathertechs, avs vent visors, toyota bed x-tender, alcantara center console cover and door pocket covers, console vault, color matched mirrors, heated mirrors, etc etc etc
    great write up
     
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