OEM Roof Rack Install

Cool nice work!! Now enjoy!

 

Excellent Write Up , installed a set on my 2011 and recently on my 2015.

 

I agree getting the rack to sit right was not an easy task and I was about to take it off as I hated the gap. But I was able to resolve mine.

First be sure to torque all the bolts down, let them sit for 5 min and then retorque- I was able to get an additional half turn. (Mine was new in box but did not include instructions so I used what I found on line.)

What I did was let the rack bake in the sun for a a good hour or two. I tried the open hand hit like they suggested- no dice. So I took the SOFT side of my rubber hammer, placed a towel over the rail, and gave it soft taps around the entire front of the rack.

Here are the results.

 

What size screws go in the factory holes under the weatherstrip? I know torx heads but what thread? Im installing something like this but dont know what longer screw to buy from the hardware store, any help would be appreciated

 

I think they were M6x15mm? Take the screw to a Home Depot or Lowes.

 

the gap sucks. mine went down a bit after readjusting and tapping. What is that on your cross bars? pads for a kayak?

 

I ended up readjusting, retightening, and popping the yellow clip back in. It help with gap a bunch

The pads are dakine aero pads for my surfboard. They fit perfectly



One complaint I have is the front crossbar when clipped in (the spring loaded lever that locks them in place when open and closed) is not 100% tight. It's not going to come I latched, but does rattle a bit when I have the board up there and it catches the wind just right.

 

Not sure if you were talking about mine or the other pict, but mine is a load warrior with ski racks to carry my fishing rods.

Now the one thing I am thinking about doing is getting black industrial zip ties and running them through the tie downs on the rack and over the bar.. Extra security.

 

Does this instruction mean that for the front 4 screws, I just trim around them like you can see I did in the picture? Then for the rest of the holes, I just puncture them with the pen rather than trimming around them?

I see some people remove that foam piece completely. Can someone clear that up for me?

 

For me I used an knife and did a clean cut around all the holes. If you just puncture it would probably not allow the screw/bolt to go in smoothly. I know mine was a pain to line up even with the holes cleaned and accidentally cross threaded one.

Just be careful and move slowly and you shouldn't have any problems

 

but what are the instructions trying to tell us about doing something different to the 4 FRONT HOLES ONLY?

 

nevermind, i see that later in the instructions it tells me to do the same to the rear 6 holes.

 

I have no clue.. ☹️ Mine did not come with instructions so I went with instructions I found on line. So I am not sure of the difference. I just know I did all the holes.

So I can't be more help

 

..

 

^ @TRD Fisher are you the guy who carries a surfboard with you rack? Having any problems with it? I read somewhere on a thread about someone who was carrying their 10ft longboard at 70mph and the bar was coming unlocked. Im buying the rack to carry boards on road trips so I need to know if this will be a problem at high speeds up to 80mph.

 

How important is it to use a torque wrench for this? I don't own one and it's pretty expensive.

 

Sorry, I am not them. I use mine for bikes and fishing rods.

What I would suggest, IMO. Get some black industrial zip ties and run them through the tie down loops and over the bar. This should help with the additional movement of the bars.

Again, this is just an idea- I have not done this.. But that is my plan if I run

 

Probably me?
I carried my 9' board from Baltimore to Charleston and back - mainly on I95 at around 75 mph right before I posted the pic above. No problems or than a lot of rattling and noise. Was nervous AF.

 

Just cross your fingers and crank up the Panic?!