OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

alright thanks, now to find a diy guide. DIY is my only option being over here in Germany so any guidance would be greatly appreciated. I watched the video on how to remove and install the bushing, but I need a DIY guide on the steps before that.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...axle-replace-front-wheel-bearing-2nd-gen.html is this the steps taken in order to get to the differential bushing that needs removed/replaced? Did everyone else use the seal and race driver set or can the bushing be tapped in another way? also, if I follow the instructions in the link above (same link as on page one) do i need to get an alignment?

Edit: DAMNIT! nvm I see it now on the first page. ordering bushing today from ecgs

 

Thanks for the headsup on the wheel bearings. I'm gonna take a look and check this weekend.

Also, I'm trying to build my own tool because I have scrap plate and 3/8 threaded rod sitting in the garage. You guys who have a puller or have made one... Why does the tool have a weird oblong shaped plate on the end versus having a full size washer (complete circle) that is a hair less in diameter then the bushing? Is there something that gets in the way inside the front diff. I haven't pulled mine apart yet so I'm not sure what it looks like in there.

 

I'm going to be doing this as soon as temps come up above freezing for a few days. What do you want for the puller? I can't believe they charge $60 for this thing thru ECGS, it is about $3.75 worth of hardware.

 

I have the ECGS bushing and new seal but need the tools and will rent or pay shipping for a loan.

Thank you all, great info.
alpinrebob, rlf494@gmail.com

 

They make another $10 on the order charging $15 shipping when it cost $5 to ship a small flat rate box

 

If it's slightly smaller to where it fits through the bearing and is still a circle, it would never grab the bearing. Aside from that, you also want it to be as wide as possible where it grabs the needle bearing otherwise you'll just bend the lips on the existing bearing and pop out the plastic cage with all the needles going everywhere. When you see the needle bearing up close, you'll understand how fragile it is.

 

^^ Nope. Got to take it apart. But I don't think I would advise you to do so because the pass. side does not see side loads like the left. Also its just a stub shaft on the right that only sees work when the ADD is engaged. I suspect mine got beat up during extensive high RPM bench testing of the 4lo Trac mod when shock loading transfer through the diff. occurs as a wheel is braked. But am not entirely sure.

 

got it, all my questions have been answered except for two. 1. Is another alignment needed after doing this? 2. Is the seal and race driver set for $44.95 an absolute purchase to get the new bushing in? Or can it be done with another method?

I'm about to call them to order as soon as question 2 is answered.

 

Great point! Obviously if its larger its not gonna fit through there.

I'll have to look back through the thread and see if anybody has given the dimensions of the oblong plate that grabs the bearing.

 

alright guys so now I'm on the fence about getting the bushing, I only drive to work literally 2 blocks and that's when the issue occurs. so tonight I went on a longer drive after getting home and the truck still warmed up I left the post and went up to 70mph on certain stretches of the road and I feel nothing now. can cold really effect it that much? maybe I should still get the bushing and install it anyway.

 

Mine got worse in the cold, and was noticeable over a longer stretch of the speedometer. I'm less than pleased.

 

I knocked mine in with a 32mm socket turned around backwards and an extension. Got it in but it was a bitch. I rented the bushing press from auto zone but they were all to small so I had to get creative as I had no car to go anywhere lol.

 

good point, back to ordering it.

 

^^ 1. I think about everyone here would say an alignment is not needed. However, look at the the two bolt holes in the bottom of the knuckle. They are a bit oversize relative to the diameter of the bolts. So some movement can occur out of plane when it is bolted back together. Enough to substantially affect alignment?

2. Lots of people have done this using sockets to drive the bushing in and PVC pipe fittings to set seal. BTW, the race driver set is a Harbor Freight tool. Look for one of their 20% off coupons.

 

thanks, I'm gonna look now.

 

Dude! - just buy the tool already!

 

Use it to get the job done and sell it for $5 less than you paid. It's not like there is a lack of customers here on tw.

 

I can make this tool in about 20 mins once I have the dimensions of the small plate that contacts the bearing. I can't see how anybody would pay more then $10 for something like this.

Were talking about a metal plate, 3/8 threaded rod and washer cut to size bolted in place.

I went ahead and ordered the ECGS bushing and seal. I will make the tool once I get the bushing. I'm gonna pick up a race driver from HF.

 

I used a 5/8 x 6 bolt and the washer idea was to weak. So I made a plate beveled the back and threaded it.