OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

Beat me to it... I would be willing to bet the culprit is a wheel bearing!

 

^^ You are on the right track now. FWIW, I would also recommend that you replace the large inner seal on both sides (not the one on pre-assembled wheel bearing units). There is some indication that water gets in there rather easily from high pressure car wash wands and just by water crossings. When I did mine there were drops of water in both sides. I like the OEM seals although they are a bit pricey$$.

 

Just ordered my bushing and new seal from ECGS. Looking to get my hands on the removal tool from a TW member.

 

Selling the bearing removal tool. $45 shipped to lower 48. Will ship elsewhere as well.



Finished the bushing install. Pretty easy. Only really difficult part was getting the bushing to go in straight (I used the 29 mm socket method). Cursed a few times on that one.

I used a slide hammer to make quick work of the CV removal. Popped right out (picture of claw attachment method below)
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Another ECGS success story here. There are a few things I realized out while doing this that might be helpful to others, so here goes:

1) I thought I could use the pry bar method to get the CV out, but after using two different pry bars I resorted to the slide hammer method, and that worked fine.

2) The ECGS instructions say to stuff a paper towel or a plastic bag into the diff to prevent the tool from falling into the diff. Don't use a paper towel. When it get's wet from gear oil, it will weaken and be hard to remove in one piece.

3) When you first put the flange part of the tool into the diff, a magnet on a stick works well. Once it's almost in place, you can thread the long bolt from the tool into the flange, and use it to help steer the flange into place.

4) The flange/tool is a tight fit. The ECGS video shows them tapping it in with a punch. I couldn't get much hammer swing on the punch, so I used the slide hammer shaft as a very long punch. Then I could more easily hammer it with enough force to get the tool in place.

5) The bushing is a tight fit. I had a seal driver, which was a big help. Trying to do this job with just a socket will lead to a lot of frustration.

6) The axel nut is supposed to be torqued to 173 lbs. When I went to tighten it, surprise!, I found out my torque wrench only went to 150. So 150 plus two grunts is what I did.

7) To get the CV shaft out, you don't have to remove the tie rod connection. You only have to remove the sway bar link, and the two bolts that connect the lower ball joint saddle to the steering knuckle. After that, the knuckle will pivot out of the way towards the front of the truck, assuming the caliper has been removed. There is a video showing an alternate method where the caliper stays mounted, and the tie rod end is removed. Then the knuckle pivots up. For me it was easier to pull the caliper.

 

The prybar method to remove the CV works easy, you need to find the sweet spot though. Try turning the shaft and trying again. Next time. It pops right out if you have it right. Also I would recommend a driver tool and not a socket for the bushing. I ended up scoring the inner surface of the bushing with the leading edge of the socket.

 

I'm glad I was directed to this thread because I have this issue with my truck however after reading many posts, I'm feeling pretty discouraged that I have to do all this work on a fairly new truck! I was thinking of trying to have Toyota fix this under warranty because my truck only has 25k miles and I don't want to void my warranty (I paid a lot for Toyota’s Extra Care) using non Toyota parts... I guess there are no other options to properly resolve this issue other than using the ECGS Bushing?

 

Well shit, looks like I am going to be ordering some more parts. Just replaced both cv's, had an alignment, and tires balanced to no avail. More money on the truck, yay...

 

Kidcatcher!

Wheel bearings for sure, same thing happened to me. Toyota dealer wanted to align my front end then discovered a bad wheel bearing that was after wanting to replace my whole front dif, total $3500.00. Right!

I got a replacement bushing and a new bearing from a supplier on TW and was back on the road for less than $500 including non Toyota labor!

Crazy.

 

Wheel bearing? I don't think so, goes away with 4 hi, wheel is steady as a rock, no wiggles.

 

sub'd

 

Figure it out yet?

 

Installed my ECGS bushing today.Was pretty easy.Like this.

1.Apply park brake
2.Loosen lugs
3.Jack truck up
4.Put jack stand under frame.
5.Remove lugs and tire
6.Remove sway bar end link
7.Hammer the dust cap free on the hub
8.Remove the Cotter pin
9.Remove star washer and nut.
10.Remove 2 bolts for lower ball joint bracket.
11.Put nut back on flush with the end of the axle and hammer it out of the hub.
12.Swing the hub assemby forward and sat it on my jack.
13.Popped the CV joint out of the diff with a prybar.
14.Put bucket under before axle came all the way out for the oil.
15.Insert the puller and remove that cheap needle bearing.( took a light tap with a large hammer to seat it )
16.Installed the new ECGS bushing. (Takes a bit and there isn't much hammer room.)
17.I cleaned up the seal and looked at it.Realized I left my 10mm allen socket at work.Decided against pulling it and replacing it due to lack of allen key for the fill plug and I will have to drive to get one local.
18.Installed it all in reverse.Drove 1/4 mile to the parts place and grabbed an allen key.Filled diff.Didn't take much.

I'll keep an eye out for a leak around the seal.I have one in the cab waiting.Job was easy for me so if I have to pop it to install a new seal it is no big deal.I haven't hit the highway to see if it did anything for my vibes.I was more worried about the loose fit CV axle than the vibes.I figured if the bearing goes it will take out the entire unit.My CV joint had excessive play.So thanks ECGS for the fix.Keeping my finger crossed the seal holds.

 

Installed the bushing. Didn't do a thing for the vibrations, bearing looked to be in perfect shape. Wasted 200 dollars. Guess the front diff is just shot or something.

 

nope

 

My vibes are much less.Going to measure driveline angles tomorrow or the next day to dial the driveline in to factory specs or better.Seal looks like it is holding up for now.

 

Great man! I am thinking of going into the stealership tomorrow just to get there guys to check it out. I'm tired of it.

 

This is an interesting thread....def. don't have time to read all 91 pages, lol. I had a bad wheel bearing for nearly a year...finally changed it in June with nj686's part. I would say about 85%-90% of the noise & vibration was fixed. However, when braking, only when braking, there appears to be a loud "rumble strip" sound & feel in the brake pedal. It's fairly short lived, approx 30mph. I haven't tested 4hi with the new bearing. But I will try tonight. Mileage is 199k. 05 TRD sport AC.

How much is this bushing that every one is trying?

 

well if you go the rouht of the bushing don't buy the removal tool or install tools from ecgs, I'll sell you my used once ones lol

 

Checked my truck today...in 4hi 25-35 & no reduction or increase in noise/vibration. Idk what the hell it is