Official Crawlbox BS thread!

The problem I had no matter which brand gears or inputs (stock/marlin/tg) is the cases would flex, and then thats when the gears strip and bearings break, and twice the case housings themselves exploded. Obviously with hard abuse

 

The actual housing? Is that why people get the HD housing? I thought it was for rock damage.

 

Kachow


But it was in rigs like this that I'd rockbounce lol so its expected

 

That'll buff out. lol.

 

Little 2rz would eat Tcases with 40s/tons

 

I got almost done with my rear case the other day and found this mysterious tic tac important looking pin left over. (never a good sign) Tried like 3 spots before I realized it went between the shift rods. Assembled it all and I just got a front range twin stick for it today. The only thing you have to do to install it is remove the god damn pin. FML!

 

You also need to grind down the shift rail in addition to removing that pin to get the shifters to operate separately.

 

I didn't see anything about the shift rail being ground but will have it out anyway. Do you have a pic of what needs to be ground or is it on the fork so it can clear the hi low?

Just sucks cause I siliconed the crawl box to it last night. Now I have to take it apart and clean both sides.

 

If you're not running twin/triple stick, the pill box must stay on place and you don't need to grind the rail.

 

Not sure how they missed that in the instructions as it's a pretty damn important step.

Make sure you grind the tab so that it doesnt touch the other rail, but also turn it on its side and grind that little hump that sticks up. If you dont grind that hump, it might hang up on the shifter tab and prevent it from fully engaging, and then you'll have to pull it apart again.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...l-and-b-s-thread.356319/page-23#post-21536729

He said hes running a FROR twin stick

 

Im running single on the reduction and planned on twin front range for the rear j case.

 

Yeah, i was looking at the pic. I have to shave this??

 

Correct.

 

Ahhh. I tho he was sticking with J pattern only. Got it

 

That sucks. Looks like im redoing 2 silicone joints then cause gonna have to take the j case apart too...Silicone was perfect too. Fuck!

 

I know how that feel, lol. When I did mine I was trying to install it as "one unit" and that idea didn't work. I had to seperate the rf1a cases from the vf and install separately.

It was hard to judge what will hit the vf.

 

I know, you told me that too. I have to swap the trans but i don't think that is gonna help me. Im just gonna make that fix and leave the cases apart and do 1 at a time. Im just super anal about silicone joints and its so hard to join shit horizontally on the ground with a nice bead.

 

I know it sucks, but rest assured this is par for the course. I think most of us have re-done seals a few times trying to get it right.

I know it's an extra step of bolting and unbolting the cases, but it might not hurt to do a dry fit with just a few bolts holding the cases together and cycle through everything while turning the input to make sure all the rails move properly and shifters fully engage. Could save you one extra re-seal in the event something isn't right. That's how I found out about that extra nub that I missed the first go around.

 

Yep, with a dual, or shouldn't be that bad. I install quite a few as 1 unit before. But if it's apart already, might as well do them separately. Plus, there's no rush. Make sure to use gear oil rtv by permatex and allow time to dry before moving on.

 

I dry fit everything multiple times based on @02hilux 's advice. But, something always comes up. lol. All good. I have the j case down pat now and the crawl box too. Learning ain't free!