Official Crawlbox BS thread!

It's popping even with the HD springs?

 

Have a 4.7 case with their 2.28 crawl box. 4.7 tcase never pops out. Every now and then the crawl box pops out when I use it but think it's mostly to do with my shifter boot and center console hitting the shifter when the tcase flexes

 

Yup. I have a trail gear heavy duty detent spring in now, Made zero difference. Pops put every time I go down hill. No shifter interference.

Here’s what it does-
https://youtu.be/6cYbIsdA3C8

This is with the HD spring.

 

Mines done that once or twice.

 

I learned a lot so yeah, stressful but a valuable lesson at the same time.

I’d have no issues pulling a t-case out of a truck since we did that mod.

 

Perhaps a worn shift rail or maybe they used the wrong size detent ball. Have you taken apart the case to look at the internals?

 

Mine would occasionally if I feathered the throttle right on a downhill and got the truck to bounce against the gears engine braking. New spring and it doesn’t at all now.

 

...shoulda bought an atlas

 

Not everyone has an extra $2k+ to throw at an Atlas

 

I meant I should have. And I didn't either.

 

Just verifying, but your are running a TG Tacoma crawlbox vs their Verso case correct?

I'd be curious if their builder is properly cutting the shift rail length, or just setting the roller pin and calling it good?

 

Yes the trail gear crawl box. Not the versa.

 

If crawl box shift rail is not shortened and binding or making contact with the tacoma tcase rail, won't you be able to feel the tacoma tcase shifter hitting the crawl box shifter? Or see movement on the crawl box shifter when rails are making contact if crawl box is engaged in low range?

 

Would not be binding, OP says he can smoothly shift H-N-L. I'd be curious to see if the crawlbox shift rail was too long and is bottoming out against the transmission housing. Its obviously engaging enough to go into low, but the snap back to neutral really appears that the shift detent ball isn't fully seated into the notch.

The two transfercase shift rails do not interfere with each other. Seperated by an adapter.

Red would by the factory chain tcase shift rails, and blue would be the single crawlbox shift rail.

 

Great answer.

 

I've always said cheap ain't bad ass and bad ass ain't cheap but since that didn't make the cut for you guys heres another one.
Buy once Cry once.

 

I don't think that would be it. The tailhousing is already notched to accept the shift rails from the factory case. Now there's a 1/2" adapter as well. That means the crawl box shift rails would have to be at least 1/2" longer then the stock case rails.

I'm using TG adapters. When I bench tested everything I did it with the tailhousing attached and my rails did not hit the tailhousing stops.

 

Doesn't the shift rail go towards the rear of the truck when going into low? If it was too long towards the front he would never be able to shift into hi gear. Perhaps the distance between the rear case and adapter plate are too small

 

I was about to screw this up majorly, as I plugged all the holes. Glad its still on my bench so I can fix it. I downloaded the instructions but they aren't real clear. You didn't clock yours. So did you plug the holes mark 0 or leave them open?



Here's the page from the instructions

That read locktite is gonna be a bitch to get loose again.

 

All the 0* are open.

This pic might help for a better visual.