Official Crawlbox BS thread!

That looks good!

Show off !

 

So just got my TG adapter kit in.
The 26 to 23 spline coupler is a fucking tight ass fit on the marlin gear spline.
Will have to tap it on there with a mallet. But I really hope I never have to remove it.

I know I'm mixing and matching gears and adapters, but generally speaking are the couplers supposed to be more of an interference fit? Or slip right on? @theesotericone

 

Mine was the same. A few gentle taps with a mallet set it perfectly. Thanks for confirming that TG adapters work with Marlin input shafts.

 

I wouldn't call mine gentle taps lol, but I got it on there all the way. Gear puller works great for getting it off.
Unless the splines wear down or something, I don't see there being any slop.

 

Nice to see TG must of updated their design. I purchased the MC 4.7s and the coupler from MC, Crawlbox assembly I purchased from LowRange came preloaded with TG 2.28s. Could not purchase with MC 4.7s. Test fitting the MC coupler on the 2.28s ended up in enough slop to rock back and forth when bottomed out on the 2.28 input. The coupler on the MC 4.7s was a nice tight fit with a small tap aka flick of the wrist with a rubber hammer, not alot.

 

Interesting. Well if I encounter any issues down the road, I can always try with the MC coupler.

In the crawlbox assembly, where should I use paper gaskets vs silicone? Talked to a few people that sealed the entire thing with silicone and haven't had issue.
I feel like that would be the way to go in order to avoid potential leaking.

Thoughts?

 

RTV it and forget about the gasket idea.

 

Just speaking for what I did, with all the mixed reviews on paper gaskets and what RTV to use, I went with Toyota FIPG Genuine Oil Pan Camshaft Gasket Sealer FIPG

$21 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

00295-00103. Yes there are different FIPG versions.

Take your time and also scuff up all mating surfaces as, adapters,etc. to give the gasket maker something to adhere to. After that just take your time follow instructions of set time and then do piece by piece on reassembly.

Going on almost 2 years and crawlbox has been leak free.

 

Sounds like silicone is the way to go. I'll just do that then.

Also, my MC gears came with a wax-like protective coating on them when I got them.
Should I worry about removing it before installing them, or just run it and then change the gear oil after like 5k?

 

Clean that protective wax off before installing. Make sure you use a pipe cleaner or something small for the oil cavities/passages.

 

3.8 or 4.3, any higher and you have basically the same gears between the planetary and main case. 4.3 auto here.

4.3 is the lowest in the 4spd, only 5.0 in the 2 spd.

 

I was implying just get a 2 speed with an auto. No reason for 4 speed if you do proper axle gears and go with a deep ratio

 

Probably an obvious answer to most on this thread, but could one theoretically have the crawlbox in Low and shift from 1-6 in the transmission and then shift the crawlbox to High and the transmission back to 1 or 2 and cycle through the transmission gears again (might have to skip first)? Not saying I want to do this, but I'm trying to understand that if the clutch is disengaged one can basically put the crawlbox into whichever setting and then ease the clutch back out and the only consequence would be possibly poor rev matching? Or would something break/grind?

edit a word: shit to shift

 

the hi/lo gear is not synchronized in the transfer case so you’d have to come to a complete stop to shift, otherwise it makes lots of interesting noises.

 

I usually leave the transmission in 1st when I have the crawl box in low, or else the transmission feels "confused" for lack of a better word. I have an auto though, so I'd imagine you'd be ok with an MT. Like 6 gear said though, make sure you come to a stop or you'll be grinding gears, but theres no reason you shouldn't be able to mix and match gears as long as you shift properly.

 

Disagree, if I were to do it all over I would not change to a 2 speed, just the main case in low is not enough. And to go through all that effort and not end up with double low doesn’t make sense either especially for the minimal price difference (relatively) between the 2 and 4.

Also, having the options is really the best part, just having the low gears would suck if your rig was used for anything other than rock crawling 24/7 with no flats or other terrain between obstacles, being able to go 20-30 with the planetary box is crucial. I think I hit 15 mph with the 4.3 gears spinning 3000 rpm.

 

Can you give a breakdown of what all your levers are for? I'm guessing cutting breaks next to gated shifter, then below are the doubler controls, but I can't guess the small ejector seat lever on the left?

 

I have 4.7 in my rear Toyota case and 2.28 in the crawl box with a340 transmission and 5.29 axle gears on 39s. Mainly a rock crawler but most trails take a decent amount of dirt roads/washouts/dunes to get to. I only use the 4.7 when doing obstacles etc and the 4.7 go fast enough when shifting to do 25-30 and not have the motor screaming. Now I will say I use the 2.28 just cause I have when going between trails but double low is to low with the automatic and feel like having the doubler was wasted money just to have that gear selection for maybe 5% of the time I use it. Just putting my observation out there from personal experience.

 

Gated shifter that once wired can go from full control automatic to back to stock, cutting levers for each rear tire, crawl box then twin sticks. The lever on the left is just a line lock since I lost my emergency brake going to a 1ton rear axle.

 

You have both 2.28 and 4.7? (Im a noob)... How do you do that? 2 crawlboxes?