"Official" Firestone RideRite + Lift Thread

After about a year of dealing with frame hitting bump stops and looking at a saggy rear end I decided to put on the Firestone Airbags on my 2011 DCSB TRDSport. I had considered new leafs and upgraded suspension but it all got very expensive and I didn't like the idea of getting too far from stock. Also I had just recently put on these leafs and shocks from a 2018 TRDOF take-off. I'm actually very happy with how they turned out. Riding with about 15 PSI in each side now with the weight of the Snug-top topper and tools in the bed etc and its actually way more plush of a ride then it was before. I mounted the valves under the license plate which I think looks pretty clean and keeps the hosing tucked behind there and out of the way. I got about 1.5" of lift and the ride it much better with less roll. It's nice to see the leaf springs actually curved upwards for once! Questions for other people that have the firestone airbags on a stock 2nd gen:

- I have the Daystar cradles, but waiting to see if I need to use them or not first. Upside is obviously more downward travel and reduced risk for when a a mechanic puts it on a lift the axle will be able to more easily drop. But I'm worried that they will add lift and that when the bags comes off and makes contact it will make noise etc... It seems like most ppl using cradles are using them because of lifts etc. I don't do crazy wheeling but I do live in Vail CO and goto Moab/frequently and drive on FSR's and a decent amount of off-road riding. Curious about what people experience is with stock rigs.

- How much PSI do most ppl keep in these bags all the time? Any issues with ice/snow/cold reducing pressure etc?

Here are some pics:

 

My right bag leaks and I can not find the area at all. I have inflated to 110#s put soapy water on it and nothing. Check the valve stem for leaks and nothing. Could the bag itself be leaking? The are brand new. Should I replace the the elbow connector that goes into the top of the bag itself?
Are there better elbow out there then the ones that came with it?

Thanks.

 

Try tightening your elbow 1/4 turn if you can.

 

Mine is lifted a tad but I also have a snug top with some tools back there and keep about 15 psi. I initially had 2 valves but put a T and connected them b/c the air pressure will balance. I didn't notice any more sway / ride difference, and it's nice to not wonder if the pressure is the same on both sides. I also don't notice the cradles on DD and mild off-roading. You will hear it clap when you're articulated and compress at speed -- for me this is 20mph+ driving down the beach which is rare. Overall these bags have been great for me -- it's been great to load up the bed and inflate as necessary for long trips down to the coast or just generally carrying heavy loads or towing.

 

I have tried that.. Maybe a little more will the trick.. Problem is, is that its already pointing towards the edge of the bracket. Anymore turning, unless I go all the way back around and I wont be able to get the hose in it.

 

Take it off and do an immersion test. It’s possible you have a bad bag. If it is the connector you’ll find that out too. Use thicker Teflon tape, the yellow stuff, as well as pipe dope to alter where the connector tightens to.

 

After about 10 years, I had a pinhole in my 1st gen airbag. I removed it from the truck, installed the Schrader valve directly to the bag with a short air line, and put some Fix-a-Flat inside the bag. I spun the bag around a bunch, and the leak went away. Most of my leaks have been at the fitting at the top of the bag, with the slip connection being the main culprit. I'd start by removing the line, and cutting a fresh hose connection at the bag. Firestone will also send a new bag if you can provide a receipt. GL!

 

I had a leaky bag, turned out to be a very slow leak at the inlet adapter On the bad where hose goes in. About a turn and a half and haven’t leaked since. I say check all the threaded portions of your system and around the push-to-fit connectors.

I ditched the elbows and went with straight in fittings, but my bags are inverted so the hose comes down from the top.

@jrlockman

I like your valve location, same idea I had for mine, but I used the top plate holes.

I’m modded a bit, but do the FS road thing and some trails/crawling. With a load and air in the bags, I seldom hear a clap on the daystars. When running empty my springs carry the weight without bags so they are 0-5psi... honestly never check them. I’ll get clapping if unload the rear suspension.

Since you run with air all the time, it’s likely you’d only hear clapping if you hop that rear end a ton.

I have a cross valve between my right and left bags. I can feel the difference in cross winds and/or curves with the valve open. I can also feel the difference when articulating the axle and the valve is closed. We sometimes use it to fine tune the leveling of the truck in camp. With that I’ve got steel bumper and rear swing out, and a million pounds of camping gear in the bed, and the Hab shits a bunch of weight up high.

As for pressure, I don’t go by psi, I inflate with a small bicycle pump mounted in the bed till the springs/height look right.

 

What size fittings are they? 1/4OD?

 

Yes, 1/4” mpt on the bag fittings typically with 1/4” od ptc fittings. You can alleviate the positioning issues with banjo fittings but I got fed up with ptc in general and switched to 1/4” compression with brass inserts and nylon cut compression rings.

 

First time post, long time viewer. Installing riderites and daystar bags tomorrow in 2014 taco. Question I have is, is it better to install the bags first without the cradles to line everything up then add the cradles, or put the cradles on at the initial install? Any other pointers greatly appreciated!!

 

You can install the cradles at the original install.

There isn't a location adjustment on the frame for the upper bag mount.

One thing I did was to put the air line inside a fuel line, as a protector of the fuel line. Helps with abrasion, road debris, etc. Also, zip tie the air lines out of the way of everything.

 

Tip: zip ties can abrade air lines over time. Previous poster suggested putting a fuel line over the air line; even if you don’t do that, “insulate” the air line with something that is abrasion resistant wherever it passes through a zip tie loop.

 

Thanks everyone! Will get some hose to run the air lines in. Thinking of picking up an air ratchet wrench also as I hear that helps.

 

An air ratchet? How many trucks are you going to do? A couple hints from one who has done more than a couple trucks: Connect both air lines together with a valve between to permit a single air inlet. After adjusting for correct pressure, close the valve to prevent crossover flow during operation. Another hint to save yourself from a really messy job, remove the bump stops completely rather than to cut them off. You won't believe me until you cut off that first one, I know.

 

I run two separate valves, as do several other folks I know. It really depends on how your truck is set up/loaded.

If you do run only 1 valve, the idea of closing the air flow between bags is a great idea.

 

The worst part of this install (and its bot gard) is one of the nuts/bolts on the the upper bracket mount. There are 4 nuts in total but the front upper inside (closest to the frame) bolt on each side took 30% of the install time. If you remove the spare tire and get under the truck so you can get your peepers on it, it may not be as bad.

Very easy upgrade. My bags / cradles will clap if I go over a speed bump at speed and unload the rear leaf springs. Other than that? No noise.

 

Well, install finished!! Wasn't too bad but took alot of time as some of the holes on upper bracket wouldn't line up. Found it very helpful to assemble it all together loosely and then slide it onto place on the frame then tighten all bolts. Had I known that from the start would've saved 1.5hr. But super happy with the way it turned out!!! Thanks guys!

 

Remember that trick, it’s not uncommon to have to do assemblies that way.

 

Two schrader valves and a crossover valve. I like options.