Oil Catch Can Install Guide

so the hose on the left going towards the front is the in? right?

 

The can should be labeled Inlet/Outlet. Inlet from the block, outlet to the intake.

 

I'll make it easy for you then. Do you have boost (turbo/supercharger)?
If yes, get the can
If no, don't waste your money

 

No, the hose on the left is the outlet, going into intake. The hose on the right, inlet, goes to rear of engine to egr valve.

All your doing is replacing the oem hose with the can. Using the new hose into original wgr and intake holes.

 

I'm a little late to the game here, but do you happen to have a link to the light-bar mount you used?

 

It is just one of those legs that come with any light bar out there. You could probably use any kind of L bracket. My last can I actually used whatever bracket was provided with the can...its just getting it attached to that one bolt there.

example: see the leg that is standing to either side of this bar

 

What if your catch can is not labeled in and out? How do you know which to hook where?

Example, the 42 draft design stealth. I am assuming the in is the lower port and out the upper? Am I correct in this?

 

Had to look it up, but I would agree with you. Not sure how easy it would be to drain it.

http://www.42draftdesigns.com/stealth-oil-catch-can/

 

Definitely in the lower and out the upper.

Ill say it again, I REALLY like this can still. Bottom just screws off to drain out / inspect. Used to be $50 and now its $36!!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilsondyno-Polish-Baffled-Universal-Aluminum-Oil-Catch-Can-Reservoir-Tank-Black/122295113271?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

 

It's got a drain plug with a valve on it on the bottom. So draining should be fairly easy.

I like that one as well, but I already bought the 42 draft one.

 

I have the small Mishimoto one sitting here, probably going to install it this weekend.

For us California guys, these things are NOT smog legal, you might fail the visual (at least per my smog guy). So hang onto your stock hose so you can put it back on when you have to smog.
And technically a CHP guy could cite you/ ref direct you if you get caught running one. Doubtful it will happen unless you are doing something like hanging out at street races or parking lot drift spots.

 

I just had to pull mine to get my gashole sniffed this weekend...scheduled it around my oil change and reinstalled when I got home.

 

Correct. With the stealth, depending on the humidity drain it regularly. Since you have no method to view or check how full it is.

They also sell a petcock valve to make draining easier. Attach a hose to the valve, and drain into your disposable container of choice.

 

Is there any reason to not plumb the right head breather into the catch can? I've modded my intake and have noticed a fair amount of oil mist is picked up and condensed in my copper line. If this is a good idea can anyone recommend a dual input catch can?

Forgive my on mobile finger painting.

 

The right hand bank is the crankcase breather. It should end up being connected before the throttle body in your intake and shouldn't connect back to the PCV side as you have it. If you want to run a can in this location you have to use a separate can.
At full throttle you remove the vacuum difference between the PCV location behind the throttle body, most crankcase vapors during this time are drawn through the crankcase vent into the engine to be burned. At partial vacuum, with the throttle body anywhere but wide open, the crankcase breather side helps the PCV side work by giving the crankcase a flow path and the crankcase gases are drawn through the PCV side. When connected in this way, you'll typically not find much oil vapor in the intake tract as you're at full throttle a very small amount of time.

You need to fix how you have things connected because it really doesn't let the system work correctly and likely is pressurizing the crankcase and is why you're seeing the condensation in the copper line.

 

Huh, well today I learned.


Next question is, I originally decided to plumb this into the plennum as I figured this was dirtying the butterfly in the TB, but as your saying this right head breather should only be drawing when at WOT? During this timw the PCV is closed?

 

The PCV valve probably isn't all the way closed. You have to look at where each is located and pressures from location to location.

At full throttle you're getting the most crankcase gas, however the manifold vacuum is at its least at this point because the throttle is wide open. There is probably some pressure difference between the crankcase on one side of the PCV valve and the manifold on the other side.

Even though the crankcase vent is close to the same pressure at WOT as the manifold, there has to be some difference between the pressures the left and right valve covers.

I'm an electrical guy and sometimes I have to fall back on some analogies. It's a common misconception to say that current takes the path of least resistance. Totally false, current takes all paths, however a greater amount of current flows through the path of least resistance. However, as long as there is a voltage difference across the path of greater resistance there will be current flow at that point also!

This is how I look at the PCV and crankcase vents. At WOT, both are at nearly the same pressure. At WOT the crankcase is at a higher pressure. There is less resistance through the crankcase side, its a wide open hose with no intentional restriction so logically most of the flow should be from that location. However there is a pressure difference across the PCV valve so there should be some flow IF the pressure difference is great enough to overcome the internal check of the PCV valve to open it.


The right hand crankcase breather does flow at partial throttle, just flow is going the other way, into the crankcase.

I remember reading earlier in the thread where some were wondering about the catch cans with a breather on top, the reason you don't want that is because at that point it'll be a vacuum leak. It would be the same as unplugging the hose going into the manifold on the PCV system. It's just a leak and easy enough to try to find out what will happen. Part of the PCV valves job is to meter the air between the crankcase and the manifold so it doesn't look like a big leak. This is also why some were mentioning orings on the dipstick of the ADD1W can. I have that can but don't recall if it has an oring on the dipstick, but you do want to keep the system sealed for that reason.

 

I get your electrical analogy, though I'm just teaching myself electrical now.

Thanks for furthing my understanding of the crank venting operation. I knew a breather on the PCV catch would be a bad idea but wasn't fully aware of the right head breathers job. Now I know. Thank you.

Now the question stands, would you plumb the right breather into the intake just before the TB as stock was, (I would have to drill and tap my 1/8 wall alluminum MAF tube.) or can I get away with having it T into where I have my fuel pressure regulator vac line just after the filter with standard NPT fittings? The ladder would be easiest for me, but given your explination I'm concerned it may rob vacuum or cause positive pressure near the FPR VL being that close/ sharing a port into the intake stream?

 

You're welcome!

I'd put it in a separate port downstream of the vacuum line. The factory is that way and I looked at a few pics of aftermarket intakes and they're all that way. That will resolve the concern you have and putting it downstream will keep the vacuum line from being contaminated when the crankcase vent does flow at WOT.

 

CRAP! Now I have to make a new copper line and tap the tube.

Thanks for the help!