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Oil change question

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by Skootter14, May 27, 2013.

  1. May 27, 2013 at 11:47 AM
    #1
    Skootter14

    Skootter14 [OP] Upon my signal, unleash Hell

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    Jeremy
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    '11 TRD Sport 4D LB 4x4 Metallic Grey
    4.56 Nitro gears, TC UCA's, Pelyfrybilt Skid, EBC Stage 5 Brakes, Extended Brake Lines, Avid Offroad sliders, Fab Fours Rear Bumper w/ Swing out Tire Carrier, Luxery Extreme Motorsport's "Grappler" bumper, Hi-Lift Jack w/ mount in bed, Pioneer 7" HU, Ultra-Gauge EM Plus, ToyTec coils with Bilstein 5100's all around, AAL in the rear, Viper Remote start/keyless entry, Hannamann Glass Fenders 4"x2", URD TCAI, 18" MO951 W/ 35's Nitto Trail Grapplers, OEM roof rack, Wicked Flow Muffler (18"), Black powder coat tip, sockmonkey's black TRD Sport rear and hood scoop decals, 20% tent (front windows match back), bak flip hard bed cover, rain guards, bug deflector, black badges all around, Red interior light, wxtech floor mats
    Got about 36k miles on a 2011 v6 4L, been using regular oil since I bought the truck brand new. Is it too late to switch to a Mobile1 full synthetic? Running wix filter. Any help is much appreciated! Thanks
     
  2. May 27, 2013 at 1:13 PM
    #2
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    E.J.
    north Alabama
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    Red hot glass pack muffler dumped preaxle raptor liner bed and top rails and fenderflares and rocker panels. Hunter side steps. Plasti-dipped upper fenders and emblems. satin black spray paint here and there inside and out. 5100's set to 1.75" up front and modified zuk mod coil spring lift for about 2" in rear paired with 5100 also. C channel front bumper.
    I swapped mine over at 150k miles and have ~172k now and have had no issues, so I give u a go ahead. Picked up about .5-1 mpg also but the guy I bought it from was runnin 10-40 for some reason so that could be where that came from.
     
  3. May 27, 2013 at 8:58 PM
    #3
    Skootter14

    Skootter14 [OP] Upon my signal, unleash Hell

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    Jeremy
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    '11 TRD Sport 4D LB 4x4 Metallic Grey
    4.56 Nitro gears, TC UCA's, Pelyfrybilt Skid, EBC Stage 5 Brakes, Extended Brake Lines, Avid Offroad sliders, Fab Fours Rear Bumper w/ Swing out Tire Carrier, Luxery Extreme Motorsport's "Grappler" bumper, Hi-Lift Jack w/ mount in bed, Pioneer 7" HU, Ultra-Gauge EM Plus, ToyTec coils with Bilstein 5100's all around, AAL in the rear, Viper Remote start/keyless entry, Hannamann Glass Fenders 4"x2", URD TCAI, 18" MO951 W/ 35's Nitto Trail Grapplers, OEM roof rack, Wicked Flow Muffler (18"), Black powder coat tip, sockmonkey's black TRD Sport rear and hood scoop decals, 20% tent (front windows match back), bak flip hard bed cover, rain guards, bug deflector, black badges all around, Red interior light, wxtech floor mats
    Thanks for the help!
     
  4. May 27, 2013 at 9:03 PM
    #4
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Satoshi with FJ badge, factory cruise, factory intermittent wipers, Redline Tuning hood-lift struts, Hellwig Swaybar, Rosen DVD-Nav
    36k is still brand new.

    But you can switch any time.
     
  5. May 27, 2013 at 9:06 PM
    #5
    Skootter14

    Skootter14 [OP] Upon my signal, unleash Hell

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    Vehicle:
    '11 TRD Sport 4D LB 4x4 Metallic Grey
    4.56 Nitro gears, TC UCA's, Pelyfrybilt Skid, EBC Stage 5 Brakes, Extended Brake Lines, Avid Offroad sliders, Fab Fours Rear Bumper w/ Swing out Tire Carrier, Luxery Extreme Motorsport's "Grappler" bumper, Hi-Lift Jack w/ mount in bed, Pioneer 7" HU, Ultra-Gauge EM Plus, ToyTec coils with Bilstein 5100's all around, AAL in the rear, Viper Remote start/keyless entry, Hannamann Glass Fenders 4"x2", URD TCAI, 18" MO951 W/ 35's Nitto Trail Grapplers, OEM roof rack, Wicked Flow Muffler (18"), Black powder coat tip, sockmonkey's black TRD Sport rear and hood scoop decals, 20% tent (front windows match back), bak flip hard bed cover, rain guards, bug deflector, black badges all around, Red interior light, wxtech floor mats
    I heard after a point it was bad to switch bc the one oil will help seal parts in engine and then changing oils to full syn will cause these seals to leak. Any truth to this, and this is the reason y I was asking. I looked over quite a few threads and never found exactly what I was looking for. Thanks
     
  6. May 27, 2013 at 9:20 PM
    #6
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    There are a lot of myths about synthetic.
    Some were based in fact 30 years ago, but are no longer true.

    Among them:

    1 - Don't run synthetic during break-in, the oil is too slippery.
    I remember when if you broke in an engine with any "detergent" oil the rings would not seat. Any engine is (and always has been) able to accept synthetic as soon as you get it home from the dealership. The engine is run on a dyno at the factory and the rings are seated before it goes on the truck.

    2 - You can't go back to conventional
    Never has been true. You can even mix conventional and synthetic, just treat the resulting mixture as if it is 100% conventional for oil change interval purposes.
    They even sell "semi-synthetic" oils... but semi-synthetic really only means "semi-expensive"... you get some of the good things about synthetic, but you also get the bad things about conventional.

    3 - Synthetic will cause oil leaks on a high mileage engine
    Not totally true. Some have observed oil leaks on high mileage engines, but this is not because the molecules are smaller or the oil is more slippery.
    If it leaks with synthetic, the leaks were already there, but blocked by sludge deposits from the conventional oil (and likely too-long oil change intervals).
    The detergents in the synthetic oil are quite effective at gently cleaning sludge deposits... which means that it may uncover some existing leaks.

    That's not going to be an issue at 36k unless the oil has never been changed.
     
  7. May 27, 2013 at 9:45 PM
    #7
    Skootter14

    Skootter14 [OP] Upon my signal, unleash Hell

    Joined:
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    First Name:
    Jeremy
    KY
    Vehicle:
    '11 TRD Sport 4D LB 4x4 Metallic Grey
    4.56 Nitro gears, TC UCA's, Pelyfrybilt Skid, EBC Stage 5 Brakes, Extended Brake Lines, Avid Offroad sliders, Fab Fours Rear Bumper w/ Swing out Tire Carrier, Luxery Extreme Motorsport's "Grappler" bumper, Hi-Lift Jack w/ mount in bed, Pioneer 7" HU, Ultra-Gauge EM Plus, ToyTec coils with Bilstein 5100's all around, AAL in the rear, Viper Remote start/keyless entry, Hannamann Glass Fenders 4"x2", URD TCAI, 18" MO951 W/ 35's Nitto Trail Grapplers, OEM roof rack, Wicked Flow Muffler (18"), Black powder coat tip, sockmonkey's black TRD Sport rear and hood scoop decals, 20% tent (front windows match back), bak flip hard bed cover, rain guards, bug deflector, black badges all around, Red interior light, wxtech floor mats
    That pretty much settles it, thanks. I've changed oil and filter every ~5k so it's time for number 7 at around 36,220ish. I just didn't want to hurt anything in the engine. Problem solved, problem staying solved.
     
  8. Mar 25, 2014 at 4:30 AM
    #8
    Doug001

    Doug001 Member

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    bought my tacoma at 111,000 mi and put mobile1 -5w30 in it and at almost 121,000 now- runs fine and haven't noticed any seepage or leak.
     
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