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Oil Pan Heater Mod

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by sweater914, Sep 18, 2009.

  1. Sep 18, 2009 at 2:29 PM
    #1
    sweater914

    sweater914 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hi Fellas,

    This write up is for the install of Wolverine oil pan heater Model 9.1 on the 2.7L 4 banger. For the folks south of the Ohio this mod isn’t necessary. For the folks who live in the Great White North this mod in conjunction with an engine block heater will get your engine up to operating temperature within a block or two at sub zero temperatures.

    Some required tools:
    Sand paper, better would be a die grinder or dremel with sanding drum
    Acetone for adhesive prep
    Tie wraps
    Wire cutters for the tie wraps
    3/8” Conduit insulation (not necessary but gives factory appearance)
    Marking tool (Sharpee works)

    Items included in the kit:
    Instructions (well written)
    Heater pad
    Sealant (hi temp RTV)
    Plastic putty knife
    One tie wrap (lame)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    After opening the package take your heater pad and find a suitable location on the oil pan, absolutely flat is best. As you can see in the photos the 4 banger oil pan doesn’t have a straight line anywhere. I settled for the rear of the oil pan about mid way up. Before you get started have a general idea where you want the cord to be routed, once the heating element is on the pan it’s not coming off without a putty knife.

    [​IMG]

    Outline the pan with your marking tool(wipe the pan clean beforehand), doesn’t have to be exact. Striping the paint can be a real chore with sand paper, my die grinder was hard to maneuver in the tight space, the dremel worked great. The paint has to be COMPLETELY stripped, the finish is better coarse than fine for the adhesive on the heater pad.

    [​IMG]

    Once striped clean area with Acetone to remove the paint residue you just stripped and clean off any oily residue.

    When you’re ready to attach the pad, plug in the element for 5-10 seconds to warm the adhesive. Remove the backing, and CAREFULLY press the pad to the pan slowly, paying special attention to the curves of the pan. You don’t want a gap between the curve and flat of the pan. Luckily the creases are shallow enough for adhesion.

    [​IMG]

    Now take the putty knife supplied the kit to press out any air pockets. This particular model pad is small enough that this shouldn’t be a huge concern.

    Plug the pad back in for 10-15 seconds and use the putty knife to press on the pad.

    It’s time for the sealant, put a good bead around the entire pad, especially under the power wires where they come out of the pad. Cover any exposed metal from your stripping. This should dry to the touch in about 30 minutes.

    [​IMG]

    All that remains is securing the power wire/plug. Completely up to the installer. I used the metal brace which comes off the front crossmember. I ran the line above the crossmember just below the steering rack. I also covered the cord in plastic conduit insulation which you can pick up at your local auto parts store. Tie wraps were used to secure the cord to the frame/body.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I screwed up a little with mine, the lower right corner isn’t attached to the oil pan because I needed to good about another ¼” to the left. I put a bead of sealant behind to pad.

    If I had to do it over again, due the shape of the oil pan I would purchase Model 4.5. It’s shorter doesn’t provide quite the output but even warm oil is better than -30F oil.

    Enjoy
     
  2. Sep 18, 2009 at 2:34 PM
    #2
    InfidelTaco

    InfidelTaco No better friend,No worse enemy...

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    Nice post. Im sure someone can utilize this mod.

    G
     
  3. Sep 18, 2009 at 2:42 PM
    #3
    T0LLPHR33

    T0LLPHR33 Well-Known Member

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    nice mod bro...awesome write up as wel...
     
  4. Sep 18, 2009 at 2:55 PM
    #4
    paintdiddy

    paintdiddy Machine gun shits

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    nice mod and write up. what temp does the pad get to?
     
  5. Sep 18, 2009 at 3:01 PM
    #5
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Well Done!
     
  6. Sep 18, 2009 at 4:33 PM
    #6
    sweater914

    sweater914 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The pad gets really hot after 30 seconds, way to hot to touch. The nice thing is as the oil heats up the heat transfers to the entire block vs an engine block heater which only heats a very localized area.
     
  7. Sep 28, 2009 at 2:17 PM
    #7
    yhiki

    yhiki Active Member

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    I looked on the web site for this device and it did not say anthing about have thermostat built in. I do not know if this would be needed. Also, at what temberature will the truck be ok at with out a heater?
     
  8. Sep 28, 2009 at 3:49 PM
    #8
    AFTaco

    AFTaco Well-Known Member

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    Whats the other cord for? Block heater? Thanks for the write-up. I will definitly put it to use!
     
  9. Sep 28, 2009 at 4:02 PM
    #9
    Krazie Sj

    Krazie Sj Resident Jackass

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    Nope, he has an electric Truck. Canada emissions mandate.


    Just kidding he's from the states and yes it's the block heater.
     
  10. Sep 28, 2009 at 4:19 PM
    #10
    AFTaco

    AFTaco Well-Known Member

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    I was just curious to know, what heaters do yall up there use? I know most use a block heater. But what about a battery heater, oil heater, radiator heater? I'm moving to Alaska in Nov and want to prep my truck before I go. This is a very informative thread. Sweater, can you use rubbing alcohol rather than Acetone to prep the surface? Also, did your truck come with a block heater or did u install it? I already purchased a block heater, hopefully I bought the right one. Thanks for all input [​IMG]
     
  11. Sep 28, 2009 at 4:46 PM
    #11
    Krazie Sj

    Krazie Sj Resident Jackass

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    Block heaters come standard on all vehicles, no idea what brand they install. I don't use anything but the block heater myself. Even in -50ºC with Diesels so long as they were plugged in with block heaters they turned over.
     
  12. Sep 28, 2009 at 6:13 PM
    #12
    sweater914

    sweater914 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  13. Sep 28, 2009 at 7:25 PM
    #13
    aces2

    aces2 Senior Arshole

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    So how does this thing get powered? I'm confused...
     
  14. Sep 28, 2009 at 10:29 PM
    #14
    Krazie Sj

    Krazie Sj Resident Jackass

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    Extension cord.
     
  15. Sep 29, 2009 at 12:43 AM
    #15
    aces2

    aces2 Senior Arshole

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    That's what I thought...
     
  16. Sep 29, 2009 at 1:06 AM
    #16
    AFTaco

    AFTaco Well-Known Member

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    You can us rubbing alcohol, you just don't any residue from the cleaner you choose to use. I bought my block heater, it's a Toyota factory unit for my 4 banger. Block heaters are considered optional equipment, I bought the truck in Billings, MT and it wasn't included. I had the Toyota dealership install it. I wasn't to impressed with how they ran the power line so while I was underneath the truck I tidied up a bit.

    I considered a battery heater for the Taco, but the battery tray is plastic. My Dad owned an iconic FJ40 when we lived in Minot, ND almost 30 years ago, if the overnight temperature was something stupid like -40 he'd remove the battery and keep it inside for the night and re-install in the morning.[/quote]

    so basically the battery heater is for when i get really cold. I think I may just go with the oil and block heater then. Thanks for your input
     
  17. Sep 29, 2009 at 5:58 AM
    #17
    sweater914

    sweater914 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    so basically the battery heater is for when i get really cold. I think I may just go with the oil and block heater then. Thanks for your input[/quote]

    I wouldn't worry about the battery, except for extremes. Depending on where you end up in Alaska the temperatures can be "mild" along the coast vs the interior. Also, keep in mind the battery technology 30 years ago, huge batteries with not alot of output.

    If you can find a garage for your Taco, there is a difference with how well the vehicle will start, even an unheated garage will help. I don't have anything to back up that statement other than personal experience with several vehicles I've owned parked outside vs inside, with and without being plugged in.

    For the V6 owners, all the photos above were for a 4 banger, the oil pan on the V6 might be substantially different. The best idea is to make a paper template of the heater you're considering and see if it works for your oil pan, a flat surface is best.
     
  18. Sep 29, 2009 at 7:08 PM
    #18
    Krazie Sj

    Krazie Sj Resident Jackass

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    Yeah, don't put it on your tranny...
     
  19. Sep 29, 2009 at 7:20 PM
    #19
    HBMurphy

    HBMurphy Ban Pending

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    Great post but that shit makes me realize how much So Cal has pussified me. I remember growing up in an area that could use these and driving to school peering out a 3" dia sight in my windshield where I placed my hand to try to defrost my windshild while my car was 'warming up'. I sure don't miss those days!

    I do understand that some of the places you are from are beautiful - Just a bit collldddd! Come on global warming!
     
  20. Oct 1, 2009 at 7:00 AM
    #20
    coma09

    coma09 Senior Member. Hey, what's That supposed to mean?

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    Having lived where it gets -40 C (northern BC)

    In-line heater that goes in your heater hose (leave vehicle heater in warm position) worked best. It cycles warm water throughout the entire block and heater core. Vehicle blew warm air right away.

    Battery heater, so the battery would work.

    Otherwise you had a dead battery trying to turn the crank through a pan of molasses.

    Nice to have was an interior heater. Vehicle was warm inside - but more so, the windows never needed scraping.

    Heated garage would have worked too, but going to work, there were car plugs available too, so you could start your vehicle for the ride home.

    Some kind of block/oil/circulating/whatever engine heater and a battery blanket were standard fare.
     
    jim1234 likes this.
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