Oil weight for 1st gen?

i'm a new '02, sr5,v6, tacoma owner and was wondering what weight/viscosity is recommended for oil changes and what's the torque spec for the plug? and is my wife's engine the same (she has an '00 4runner, sr5, with the v6) as mine?

 

use some mobil1 or other synthetic oil. 5w30 is what you should use. and yes both your wifes engine and yours are the same. 5vz-fe 3.4l v6.

 

you are correct sir. mobil 1 full synthetic is the sh!t.

 

thanks fellahs, now how's about that oil plug torque spec (or is it tough but don't wail on it).

 

i tighten it until it doesn't turn anymore. just replace the washer/gasket.

 

thanks again. is the washer/gasket piece easily available at any local autoparts store or do i have to go the stealership?

 

should be available at any parts store, it just a washer.

 

Have a new 2006 4 cyl Tacoma and was wondering when you can change to synthetic oil. Is the first change at 5000 miles a good time or do you need more break in time?

 

Check with your dealer on synthetic and have it documented. Some manufactures do not encourage the switch to synthetic oil. For synthetic, the sooner the better from what I know. However, the long term effects of synthetic are unknown. Or is it? Time will tell.

 

For some reason Toyota does not seem to endorse any synthetic,however, lots of people use it. It will run fine with any synthetic.

As far as the torque spec's on a drain plug, its really not necessary, the proper way, generally, is to hand tighten it if possible and then use a box wrench of the correct size and just snug it up and then perhaps a 1/8 turn further. Changing the washer is a good idea also. You never want to use a worn or mis-sized wrench, in other words, if the drain plug is for arguement sake, 15mm, us a good 15mm box wrench, which is a closed wrench. Do not use a 16mm wrench or a US spec wrench. You can use a socket wrench but it is not really necessary.

I used to teach beginning automotive at adult education courses. So I realize that it is hard to "tell" someone exactly how much to tighten a nut or drain plug. I also had many people using the wrong tools and tightening the plug unnecessarily.
When the oil is replaced and the filter in place(be sure to lube the rubber filter gasket) start it up and check for small drips. one other good tip is to never work on any vehicle when you on a hurry.
If your drain plug is banged up from using the wrong wrench, just go to the dealer and get a new one and replace next oil change.
If you have a few miles on your truck, when you under it, look around for leaks and check the rubber boots on the drive axle and around the hoses. jeff

 

This is probably a stupid question, but what kind of oil (type/visc) do the new vehicles come with? Is it a special "break-in" mineral oil, or is it just regular 'ol 5w-30?

 

as far as i know, each dealer has been different in what they are using, however its been 5w30 or 5w20. some have been using regular dino oil, and some have been using synthetic blend, from different posts ive read on different forums. i dont really think toyota uses a special break in mineral oil.

 

TSUNAMI*22, all Toyota trucks come with 5-30 oil. These days there is no such thing as "break in oil" . Just regular old 5W-30. Toyota's manual on oil changes doesn't support syn oil, like Mobil One or Castrol or any other brand. However you will find that different dealers all over the US will put in syn with no problem. Should you want to use syn oil(and you should) anytime after your first oil change is OK, some people wait longer some do it in the first 3000 miles.Its up to you. I also know some Taco guys who use "dino" oil and always get 300,000+ out of there engines.
Using good quality oil and filter is the best possible way to keep your engine in good shape, that and allowing you engine to come up to normal temp before higher rev's.

Regular maint and not over heating your engine is the key to long engine life.

Corvettes and Porsches all come from the factory with Mobil One, precision manufacturing tolerances is the key in that case.
Jeff
06,V6 4x4, 6spd SR5

 

The reason I asked is because we use a mineral oil for the first 50 hours of "break-in" on the helicopters that I fly (Robinson's R-22/R-44). After that they use aviation grade oil called "ashless dispersant". The benefit being that no sludge ever gets deposited anywhere inside the motor becuase ALL the gunk stays suspended within the oil and gets drained on each change.

From what I understand, the synthetic oil with a good filter is good for 5,000 miles.

Thanks for the input.

 

i say synthetic is definitely the way to go. i was running mobil1 5w30 full synthetic,with a mobil1

$17 m1-102 / M1-102A extended performance oil filter

m1-102 filter, but now im running pennzoil platinum 5w30 with the m1-102 filter. great stuff!!!

 

Helicopters are very different from cars and trucks, very different in the engine load spec's and the tremendous cost of the craft.

As far as length between changes , I think you will find that 5000 miles is about average. I have been looking at oil and filter websites for some time and everyone has there own opinions. Some car and truck owners change at every 3000 with syn, to me thats a waste of $$$. In reality it doesn't matter whether its 3000 or 5000 or 6000, its the fact that the old oil is removed and a new filter and oil(syn or dino) is being put back in. This is the best possible solution for any recently new car or truck.
Regular maint, whether you do it or you have it done at a garage/dealership(hopefully not these quick change garages) is the key and looking at the owners manual from time to time.

Tacoman06, love the exhaust system on your truck, really looks different and has that custom look. Did you do that yourself or at a shop? Fill us in on how that was done and what products did you use and was it a lot of hassle to put on dual exhausts?

Jeff
06 v6, 4x4, SR5 , 6spd Bone stock

 

thanks for the compliment on the exhaust. its actually kind of a custom job, but i got one of our local muffler shops to do it. i used a flowmaster original 40 3inch in center/ 2.5 inch dual out, then the muffler shop cut out the stock muffler, welded in the new one,then ran piping straight out the back, with 3 inch polished stainless tips. i really love the sound. now, the shop i went got a little bit lazy, and actually removed my spare tire to fit the exhaust, but im gonna have that fixed before too long, as im tired of having the spare riding around in the bed. just note that duals out the back CAN be done without removing the spare. price wasnt bad either, basically it was right at $300 for everything(muffler,piping,welding,hangers and stainless tips).

 

Call me paranoid but I always do my own oil changes. For me it is piece of mind knowing that there is a new quality filter and actually 5.5 qts of fresh oil. I personally use OEM filters with Valvoline 5w-30 every 3k (call me old fashioned). But i've heard too many horror stories about people who take it somewhere. Like filters falling off, striping the drain plug threads, not enough oil, and my favorite used oil!! A guy at work took his truck to (of all places) Wally World had the oil changed and pulled into the parking lot pulled the dipstick and the oil was BLACK not the amber color of new oil, black! Of course they swore they put fresh oil in, no refund have a nice day.