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oil

Discussion in '4 Cylinder' started by darrinhutch, Sep 30, 2014.

  1. Sep 30, 2014 at 7:41 AM
    #1
    darrinhutch

    darrinhutch [OP] Well-Known Member

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    what kinda oil should i use in my 22r? it has 216,xxx. i have Pennzoil 5w-30 in it right now.
     
  2. Oct 1, 2014 at 9:16 AM
    #2
    91r100gs

    91r100gs Understand the Voice Within

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    If Pennzoil 5w-30 got you to 200K+ why would you want to change. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. My 2¢
     
  3. Oct 1, 2014 at 9:34 AM
    #3
    darrinhutch

    darrinhutch [OP] Well-Known Member

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    i have only had the truck since january. i havent owned it for 200k i wish i had tho
     
  4. Oct 1, 2014 at 11:15 AM
    #4
    91r100gs

    91r100gs Understand the Voice Within

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    Just keep on doing what you are doing. Pennzoil Yellow Bottle conventional is a really good conventional oil. It does a nice slow job of cleaning light sludge and varnish, without plugging your filter. Change it every 3 to 5K miles, and you might get another 200k out of it. IMO do not use a synthetic, it may clean too well, too fast and cause leaks.
     
  5. Oct 1, 2014 at 11:58 AM
    #5
    darrinhutch

    darrinhutch [OP] Well-Known Member

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    alright. i will. and i dont use synthetic and dont ever plan on it!
     
  6. Oct 4, 2014 at 11:13 PM
    #6
    TRVLR500

    TRVLR500 Well-Known Member

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    The 2004 2.7 I just bought was owned by my dad so I know how it was maintained. He ran Pennzoil yellow bottle for the last 119,000 miles and changed it like clockwork every 5000 miles. I just changed over to Mobil 1 5-30 and I haven't seen a leak yet. Of course, if that is going to happen it'll take longer than a couple thousand miles to do it.

    The point I'm trying to make is that Pennzoil is damn good stuff. Usually, if you switch over to a synthetic after running dino for a long time the synthetic will turn dark almost immediately because it cleans so much better. In my case that hasn't happened. The Mobil 1 is still clear. That's because Pennzoil has a very good detergent package.

    With the mileage that's on your engine I'd just stick with the Pennzoil. The reason I like synthetics is because they work far better in frigid temps which I have to deal with all winter long. You can also extend your drain intervals with them slightly.
     
  7. Oct 5, 2014 at 12:06 AM
    #7
    TrdSurgie

    TrdSurgie revised

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    I vote for crisco or you can use any other generic vegetable shortening. Should work nicely.
     
  8. Oct 5, 2014 at 10:26 AM
    #8
    darrinhutch

    darrinhutch [OP] Well-Known Member

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    true. i have heard alot of good things about penzoil so ill might as well keep using it
     
  9. Oct 6, 2014 at 4:25 PM
    #9
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    Yes Pennzoil yellow bottle dino oil is very good oil. So is Castrol. So is Valvoline. So is Chevron. Etc etc. In my experience, anything with the API starburst symbol is going to work just fine if it's changed regularly, which is arguably more important than the brand being used. I do recommend a name brand/national brand over the cheapo store brand. And I do recommend you stick with 5w30 viscosity.
     
  10. Oct 6, 2014 at 6:04 PM
    #10
    darrinhutch

    darrinhutch [OP] Well-Known Member

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    my oil get dark REALLY FAST. so i try to change it every 2,500 miles. is that good or should i let it go?
     
  11. Oct 6, 2014 at 8:34 PM
    #11
    TrdSurgie

    TrdSurgie revised

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    The color of the oil doesn't matter. All oil gets dark during use. Send a sample to blackstone for analysis to get an idea of what oil change interval you should be using.
     
  12. Oct 6, 2014 at 8:40 PM
    #12
    MateoTorgy

    MateoTorgy Well-Known Member

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    I wasn't a synthetic oil "snob" until I could get 5-quart containers of it for $25 at Walmart. You may want to consider Mobil 1 High Mileage synthetic.
     
  13. Oct 6, 2014 at 9:49 PM
    #13
    TrdSurgie

    TrdSurgie revised

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    Why change routine after nearly 30 years of regular oil..... clearly dino oil is fine.


    EDIT: 31 years.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2014
  14. Oct 6, 2014 at 10:12 PM
    #14
    G17GUY

    G17GUY Well-Known Member

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    spining hub caps chrome stick-on trim new car smell air freshiner stering wheel suicide knob nut sack on hitch back window curtain
    I would put the cheapest api rated oil in it I could find that was SN rated. Not the SF rated accel oil at walmart.
     
  15. Oct 7, 2014 at 7:02 AM
    #15
    MateoTorgy

    MateoTorgy Well-Known Member

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    You guys can come pick up my used synthetic for free. Save me a trip to the recycler.

    Synthetic runs cooler and breaks down less quickly. Why not pay $4 or $5 more for the cooler run? Or why not pay a few dollars more to double the length of your change intervals? Do the math.

    Synthetic demands less energy (be it fuel or electricity). Countless stories of air compressors tripping breakers on dino but running ten to 15 degrees cooler, no trips, when running full synthetic compressor oil.

    I'm trying my best to understand your logic but I can't. From a performance or financial standpoint.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2014
  16. Oct 7, 2014 at 8:16 AM
    #16
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    ^ true
    Many used oil analyses (UOA) done on oil that *looks* black as tar, has revealed that the oil is still in good condition and could easily go another 3000-5000 miles, or more.

    You, sir, have a point.
     
  17. Oct 7, 2014 at 9:21 AM
    #17
    Indy

    Indy Master of all I survey.

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    Hehe, I could leave the drain plug out of my last diesel and dump in clean oil. It would be black by the time it hit the catch pan.
     
  18. Oct 7, 2014 at 9:28 AM
    #18
    ecotecin

    ecotecin Wait, whut........

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    Ive always used valvoline and pennzoil. My wifes nissan uses valvoline from the dealership, so thats what i will run in it. Not sure what they use in the tacoma but will probably run pennzoil in it after the free oil changes. May even ask them to put pennzoil in it at first change.
     
  19. Oct 7, 2014 at 12:07 PM
    #19
    MateoTorgy

    MateoTorgy Well-Known Member

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    The only certain way to avoid stripped oil pan plugs, application of proper torque, use of plug gaskets, etc..., is to change the oil yourself in the luxury of your own garage. If you buy Mobil 1 full synthetic from Walmart and Mobil 1 filters from Amazon, a DIY change will cost $30. You can do it while drinking a beer. No dealing with delays at the shop. No having to drive across town. Just my two cents. (perhaps trying to reconvince myself that doing it my way is best...LOL)
     
  20. Oct 7, 2014 at 6:28 PM
    #20
    ecotecin

    ecotecin Wait, whut........

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    True, but with my work schedule and lack of garage or concrete/paved driveway, its easier to let the dealership donit. Plus if theres a problem, then they cannot say that it was something that i done.
     

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