Old Man Emu: Questions, Answers & Pictures

To be clear my statement was regarding having the diff drop and wheeling not regarding the CV angles.

If I have the option of f'n up a CV or my diff, I'm going with the CV every time.

 

10-4

 

I read an opinion somewhere that since it only tilts the differential, you may be moving some internals to areas that are no longer submerged in gear oil and could cause some undue wear. Not sure how far that argument got though.

 

Anyone know how long it takes new coils to settle down to where they'll be?
Mine have settled a half inch in a few days so far.

 

Hey Hunter thanks a ton for those thorough answers. It can get crazy tedious searching this site for the right answers. I hope to start buying the mods in the next month so I can get it ready for some fun this summer.

I've done a little research on this and have heard the theory of it "tilting" rather than maintaing a level "drop". I guess I'll have to see how the build evolves and how the ride changes. Thanks for the help. I think the OME lift is first on my list of mods now!!!

 

I'm glad I can help; paying it forward really. I've received so much guidance from this site it's amazing.

I hadn't considered the differential drop as a possibly bad modification. It makes sense to me as to why this would be the case. Essentially the spaces create a lever arm (radius) that wasn't there before, which could amplify a force applied to the diff - from a rock or so forth. I plan to add armor; possibly sooner than I expected after discovering this. I can say that the diff drop only rotates the front diff. However, without completely disassembling the differential and analyzing the design, I can't comment on the possible premature wear as a result of a different internal oil level. If I had to guess though, I would assume that all of the rotating gears would throw oil all over everything anyways and it really wouldn't matter.

Anyways, I am really happy with the OME lift. I love how the truck handles now, and I really appreciate running a set of 33" winter tires up here in Alaska. They have made a world of difference for my everyday driving off the mountain into work. I'm sure you will love it too once you get it on. Be sure to post pics for the rest of us!

Hunter

 

Again, I'm no expert, but it seemed the diff dropped straight down. The bolts when put back in were not at an angle. They were straight up and down. If there was a tilt seems like the bolts would have been off. IDK.

 

Here's the skinny on the DD. They became very popular on the Gen 1, and were more effective in reducing the angle on the CVs due to the way the 1st Gen diff was mounted. The train of thought followed that if they were so good on the 1st Gens, they've got to be good for the 2nd Gens. If you compare the way the two diffs are configured you'll see that the DD has much less effect on reducing the CV angles on the 2nd Gens, but still displaces the diff enough to put it in harms way (rocks and obstacles primarily, if not armored). I was a Gen 1 guy, so when I installed my lift the DD was a no-brainer. I didn't give it a second thought. For the 1-2 degrees it may give you back on the CVs, it may not be worth the risk. If I wasn't armored I'd have pulled it out a long time ago.

 

Has anyone tried flipping the top overload on the dakars? I am getting a pack and a shakle flip, not sure what I am going to add/remove, waiting to see what hieght I will get. I always have a ton of work parts or camping equipment in the back.

 

Flip it to have it engage the pack earlier ?

 

I was reading an older thread and it was mentioned as a way to maintain lift with extra weight but without the aal, not sure what it would really do, just wondered if anyone actually tried.

 

I believe it engages the pack at an earlier point , I haven't done it but would probably go the aal route myself

 

That top overload is actually flat, I pulled it out and am just using the bottom shorter overload to gain more flex. It sits perfectly flat and has no negative arch despite what it looks like when installed. Flipping it would do literally nothing at all.

 

Yes , you are correct , it's the lower one that you can flip to engage the pack earlier , my bad

Now I wanna find the article where I read that info

 

Found a pretty good install video on youtube for OME shocks/springs. Looks like he was replacing OME shocks and they had some interesting damage.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5E6u7dC7EHg&sns=em

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jo0FJSi-KYs&sns=em

 

Wow, it looks curved in the pics.
Ok I won't bother with it.

 

This is my second tacoma lift,
This was a full OME lift with 1.5 tsb add a leaf. Also dropped the diff.
The lift went well
Driving in 2wd is good
When in 4 hi or 4 lo and turning either direction(past one full steering wheel rotation) the rear starts to "chirp" and lose traction. Granted this is testing on pavement only
Is this only because I am on hard pavement?
Trying to figure this out
Thanks ahead of time

2014 trd 4x4
Ome coils 885 top plate spacer
Diff drop
Tsb aal
265 bfg all terrain

 

Yes it is because you are on pavement with good traction. You should not use 4x4 when you have good traction. You can if you are driving in a straight line, other than that you should only engage 4wheel when the road surface will allow the tires to break traction on slow tight turns. What you are doing is hard on the truck and you could possible break something. Especially in 4 low. Sounds like you might have even had the diff lock engaged which is another no-no

 

Thanks for the heads up. I definitely was not driving up and down the streets just making sure everything engaged.
Thanks again
Pics to follow

 

The bushings wore like that because his shocks were shot (for a LONG time). instead of compressing and decompressing the shafts were sliding inside of that bushing and causing abnormal wear on the bushing.