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Old Man Emu: Questions, Answers & Pictures

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by 4Wheelin4Banger, Jan 15, 2013.

  1. Jan 22, 2014 at 9:56 AM
    #3401
    lightinglark956

    lightinglark956 Well-Known Member

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    if doing the uppers too ,do them at same time . that's how I did mine and didn,t have a problem at all getting them in
     
  2. Jan 22, 2014 at 10:20 AM
    #3402
    Got2ryde

    Got2ryde Well-Known Member

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    Let me first say, I apologize for not knowing all the proper parts and or terms. Shade tree mechanic here.
    I did loosen the cam bolts and removed the two bolts outside the lower ball joint. I was trying his method of disassembling the spring/strut assembly using the lca and the weight of the vehicle as a spring compressor. So I put the jack up under the lca, unbolted the center bolt holding the strut assembly together then slowly let the jack(lca) down until the jack was not supporting it. Then I removed the lower strut mount bolt. But even with the cams loose I couldn't get the spring to be unsprung like in the video to the point where I felt comfortable sliding it out of the "saddle" in the lca. There probably wasn't much tension on the spring at that point but having heard all the horror stories about springs and all the stored energy I wasn't going to try. Plus I didn't like the idea of forcing the lca down. After seeing reviews of people flattening the cam keeper tabs. So I jacked it all back up, compressed the spring and put the nut back on top, removed the 3 bearing plate nuts and dropped it out of there intacted. Other side I didn't even loosen the cam bolts and it dropped right out(still compressed) with very little effort. Took them into town and had a garage disassemble them and reassemble the new springs and struts reusing my old bearing plates. Got the right side reinstalled no problem, now I just need some random torq specs. And then I'll do the drivers side. I'm trying to find a comprehensive diagram with all the different nuts/bolts and torq specs. I've seen the list but my brain doesn't work that way trying to figure out what they call this bolt or that. I NEED A DIAGRAM! Please and Thank You.
     
  3. Jan 22, 2014 at 1:42 PM
    #3403
    Hunter.V.White

    Hunter.V.White Well-Known Member

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    Pelfreybilt Steel Armor, Famous Fabrication Sliders, OME 3" Lift, 886x coils, Dakar Leaf Packs, TC UCA's, Fuel D551 Wheels, 285/70/R17 Toyo Tech RTs, Warn Zeon 10s Winch, Rigid Industries 20" E2 Flood, RI 20" SR Spot/flood, RI Duallys, SwitchPro SP8100, Uniden Bearcat 680 CB Radio.
    I don't know if there is a thread, but I'll try to give you some learning points, as I just installed an OME lift on my truck (DC, 4WD). I can't answer the questions about the UCA's with weight; I believe UCA's are needed when one lifts the full 3". 886x coils got me 3+ inches on my truck, but I only have sliders on for now.

    Install Tips:

    1. When installing the front coilovers, don't unbolt the bottom of the hub. Instead, unbolt the sway bar and move it out of the way. This will create plenty of room to get things in and out.

    2. You will have to bend the inner fender well to get the UCA axis bolt out. You really won't have to bend it much, so don't sweat it - and don't bend the shit out of it in anticipation.

    3. Grease the UCA's (if new; I added TC UCA's) before you assemble them. Don't tighten the zerk fittings too tight. In the TC UCA's, they aren't supposed to sit flush.

    4. The rear was pretty straight forward. I installed new Dakar packs. Just unbolt everything (supported the axle with jack stands) and then rebolted the new parts in.

    5. Rember to torque all bolts down. You should be able to look up the torque specs online. Use a torque wrench and do this properly. I followed this, but probably missed a nut on my passenger rear shock, as it came unbolted shortly after.

    6. Research if you want to install the diff drop (if applicable). I did, but was later informed by some knowledgeable people on here that it may not have been the best decision. The consensus: it lowers it into a possible danger zone for impact damage. Decision: armor it (skid) or don't do it and resign to replacing the CV's when they wear out.

    7. Have the wheels aligned. They will be off after doing this. New UCA's will help with the alignment for the front if you go above 2".

    If you have any other questions, I'm sure one of us can help. I did read all 179 pages before I bought and installed my lift. I'm sure you won't be doing something one night and can allow yourself to get sucked in :D. We all spend way too much time on TW anyways.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2014
  4. Jan 22, 2014 at 2:52 PM
    #3404
    CVYota

    CVYota Damaged goods

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    Here we go

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Jan 22, 2014 at 3:19 PM
    #3405
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    Sure looks like the top overload has a slight curve
     
  6. Jan 22, 2014 at 3:28 PM
    #3406
    CVYota

    CVYota Damaged goods

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    yep
     
  7. Jan 22, 2014 at 4:27 PM
    #3407
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    You gonna flip it ?
     
  8. Jan 22, 2014 at 4:46 PM
    #3408
    CVYota

    CVYota Damaged goods

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    yep
     
  9. Jan 22, 2014 at 4:52 PM
    #3409
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    Cool , post pics of that process so we can reference them

    Going to add centre pin collars too ?
     
  10. Jan 22, 2014 at 4:57 PM
    #3410
    CVYota

    CVYota Damaged goods

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    I couldnt find them, where did you get them from?
     
  11. Jan 22, 2014 at 4:58 PM
    #3411
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    I just got mine at my local spring shop
     
  12. Jan 22, 2014 at 6:14 PM
    #3412
    CVYota

    CVYota Damaged goods

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    :thumbsup:
     
  13. Jan 22, 2014 at 7:12 PM
    #3413
    bjboucher

    bjboucher Mama says Tacoma World is da devil!

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  14. Jan 22, 2014 at 8:58 PM
    #3414
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    What is the benefit of the center pin collars?
     
  15. Jan 22, 2014 at 9:01 PM
    #3415
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    They extend the head of the centre pin so that if you end up needing to use axle shims , the centre pin will still be long enough to positively engage into the hole in the axle
     
  16. Jan 22, 2014 at 9:08 PM
    #3416
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    Oooh got it! :thumbsup:

    Guess i should of realized the reference of shims. :eek:
     
  17. Jan 23, 2014 at 12:41 AM
    #3417
    LuckyE34

    LuckyE34 Active Member

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    So picked up a ome lift kit. Dakars , 885 and one shocks all around.

    1. Do I NEED to get extended brake lines?

    2. How hard are the bushings to remove from the old leaf springs?

    Thank in advance for the help :)
     
  18. Jan 23, 2014 at 5:09 AM
    #3418
    XPOTRPR

    XPOTRPR CNC Programmer/Machinist

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    > BUILD LINKS >
    Id suggest getting new bushings while your at it.

    And for the brake lines, I'm not running extended.
     
  19. Jan 23, 2014 at 6:47 AM
    #3419
    CVYota

    CVYota Damaged goods

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    Thank you

    Can someone snap a pic of it installed? I want to be sure I know what we are talking about.

    As far as Flipping the overload, I will install them normally to get an idea of the ride before I flip 'em.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2014
  20. Jan 23, 2014 at 7:06 AM
    #3420
    YOTA LOVER

    YOTA LOVER Stay Calm, and Fire For Effect

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    A slew of pricey stuff my wife hates me for.
    I also recommend new bushings. Cheap money, make life a lot easier.

    And extended brake lines are only $100. A worthwhile improvement over the oem stuff, and worth the peace of mind knowing you won't stretch a brake line.
     
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