Old Man Emu setups on 1st gens

They are a 7-leaf pack. They are SOFT for springs. Even with the AAL they cap out at around the same weight as the payload . So with 3" of lift they compress more than OEM.

Here is mine with a Bale wagon hooked up. No idea on weight. Maybe 800-1000lbs tongue weight.

 

damn!

 

882s
SPC UCA
Dakars w/AAL
265/75/16

I have the OME extended exhaust hanger but it looks like I'll end up cutting anyways Had to cut the driver side hanger bolt but everything else went relatively smoothly..

 

What made you go with the AAL? Just curious as I just got an OME lift on Monday, but went with 883 coils, and NO AAL.

 

Nice truck! What rear bumper are you running and do you have any better pics of it? Thanks!

 

This is the main reason why I went with the AAL lol

 

I'm all set to start my install tomorrow - 880 coils, nitros and CS018R springs (specific to the 95-97 single cab) and they don't have an A or B, both packs just have the +. Am I ok to throw them in on either side? If one had a - I'd throw that on the passenger's side, but since they're both the same...

 

Future plans: Bed topper with a RTT and gear in the bed.


It's time to update my suspension and I have 190 pages to educate myself with. I'll be back in a few days...

 

Mine were both "+" packs, it sat level from day one and still does. Go ahead and toss 'em in.

 

I also went with the AAL because I have a camper shell on that almost never comes off. Along with a full size spare (in the bed) along with a kennel and whatever gear I have at that time. I still have rake lol

 

It's a CBI Outback rear bumper.. I'll try to get pics later today...

 

Sorry about that it's been corrected. Look at my original post ..

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cbi-outback-bumper-installed.267658/#post-6582302

 

Started on the back, everything came out easy enough, but I'm waiting on a coworker (he has a grinder) so we can cut out the front leaf spring bolts. However, I found some rust on the passenger side of the frame that didn't look too good, so after taking a hammer to it, my frame has a nice new hole:








How would you attack this? I'm gonna reach out to another friend who has a MIG welder, maybe we can fix this on the cheap? My mechanic recommended a body/frame shop as well, waiting on a call back from them.

 

I was referred to a local welder for mine to clean out all of the rust, weld new steel and put a coating onto it. Not particularly a body shop, they may end up charging you a bit. Not sure how much you are looking to spend in regards to "cheap" depends how much more damage there is to the frame. Mine was pretty bad lol

 

That area of the frame also flexes. In fact, there have been instances where the frame has actually bent/deformed in the same spots where your rust holes are.

Not sure about the underside repairs, but several companies make frame reinforcement plates for the frame sides in that area. They are of course weld-on plates. Might want to consider using a set of those as part of your repairs.

 

That's exactly what I'm thinking. The driver's side looks perfect because the shock mount is rear of the axle, for whatever reason that pocket didn't collect any dirt. This side was full of crap, dropped through as I punched it out. The frame does look a bit deformed right at the top corner of that hole, to be honest might be a slight bend.

I think I'll spray some rust inhibitor to stop it, talk to some friends with welding capabilities, and order the frame plates. But first, I'm gonna finish my OME install

 

I really want to see your cv angles when you get a chance

 

Hi all, I'm looking for advice from those more experienced than I.

Hopefully, next weekend or the weekend after, I'm going to be rebuilding my front suspension and going with 881s and nitrochargers. I have all the components I need, new C/Vs, LBJs, UBJs, LCAs, UCAs, TREs, bearings and seals, and according to Wheelers my shocks and coils are coming on Wednesday. Anyhow, I'm going to be doing the back within the next month-month and a half. I've decided to go with Dakars and Bilstein 5125s, Wheelers told me the 5125s would work, since I'm trying to save a bit of money in the back. So my first question is what other things do I need to purchase besides the U Bolts and bushings, are the shackles necessary and what if any extended brake lines would be best? I should also say I don't care about the exhaust hanger, that's what Sawzalls are for. My second question is if I should invest in the AAL. I have a camper shell with a roof rack on top of it, between the two of those, I'd say theres is at least another 200-300 lbs on the back, I really don't take either off, so it's on constantly. Part of me wants to get the regular leaf pack, throw it on, see how it looks and if it looks bad, then get the AAL, but I know how much work that would entail. I'm not looking for much lift, the 881s in the front are plenty for me and I would like to maintain the current stance of the pickup, which I'm starting to think means I will need the AAL. I'll attach a picture of what it looks like now.

Thanks for the help!

 

You don't have much rake stock, but a few hundred pounds will flatten those springs a bit. Get the AAL and some extended lines. I know mine were too short. Get the wheelers ones they are pretty decent I believe.

 

This is my rig with dakars, camper shell and probably 150 lbs in the bed. Just my EDC. when I camp there's probably another 150 lbs in the bed. Family of 5. Center of hub to fender in the rear is 21". I wish I had put on the aal. Also, there are adjustable lift shackles you can get. Don't remember if they were on wheelers or toytec I'm gonna add both later. Read up on axle shims. They are supposed to help center your tire in the well. I don't know how they work but you can see how close my tire is to front of rear fender. 285 75 16.