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OME Dakar bushing failure

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by muddog321, Aug 27, 2020.

  1. Aug 27, 2020 at 7:13 AM
    #1
    muddog321

    muddog321 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    09 tacoma doublecab 4wd trd w/e locker Pyrite mica color
    TW 1-piece driveshaft All Pro and Budbuilt skid plates OME Dakar rear springs 3" with 5100 5100 front set at 2" stock springs Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/70R16 Powerstop rotors and z36 pads Rebuilt rear and all wheel bearings front /rear Denso 130A rebuilt alternator New OEM idlers and tensioner assembly New AC compressor New PS hose and flushed Rhino front guard ARE shell
    Started getting a clunk from the rear so climbed under and both rear OME yellow bushings in the rear of each spring is trash. Installed 5 1/2 years ago. For each side the kit is $33 but install could be another $500. and they do both ends of the spring packs. Anyone else have the same problem with theirs? Did you use the yellow OME kit again or another?

    OME buskhing left IMG_4817.jpg
    OME bushing right IMG_4818.jpg
     
  2. Aug 27, 2020 at 7:15 AM
    #2
    elduder

    elduder Well-Known Member

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    Bushing install shouldn't be $500. o_O Its a DIY task, but the most I could see a shop charging is one or two hours of labor.
     
  3. Aug 27, 2020 at 7:19 AM
    #3
    Dalegribble02

    Dalegribble02 Well-Known Member

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    Change them out yourself they are super simple to re and re.
     
  4. Aug 27, 2020 at 7:23 AM
    #4
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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  5. Aug 27, 2020 at 12:09 PM
    #5
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E CEO & CFO @BPF

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    $500 to replace leaf bushings, sign me up for that job, I'll do it for $499.99
     
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  6. Aug 27, 2020 at 1:33 PM
    #6
    muddog321

    muddog321 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    09 tacoma doublecab 4wd trd w/e locker Pyrite mica color
    TW 1-piece driveshaft All Pro and Budbuilt skid plates OME Dakar rear springs 3" with 5100 5100 front set at 2" stock springs Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/70R16 Powerstop rotors and z36 pads Rebuilt rear and all wheel bearings front /rear Denso 130A rebuilt alternator New OEM idlers and tensioner assembly New AC compressor New PS hose and flushed Rhino front guard ARE shell
    Thanks all.
    Tacos you hit it on the head of my issues. The front is a rubber OME no one seems to know about or remember at ARB USA or 4 wheel parts and they wanted to replace both ends. Well the rubber ones look perfect only the rear yellow bushing disintegrated so ARB says 2 kits now or 1 per side where they all look the same size so really only 1 kit required. Talked to another shop and about $150. I'm getting old and just got a new hip so no way I'm doing it - I'll drink beer and watch! Done enough repairs in my life and FL is hot as hell now too. Sucks getting old me and the Tacoma.
     
  7. Aug 27, 2020 at 1:40 PM
    #7
    azzwethinkweiz

    azzwethinkweiz Well-Known Member

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    I hear yah there. I'm barely in my 30s and in my 20s I did all the maintenance and work on my vehicles myself, no matter what it was basically I still do most things myself but I find myself more and more whoring the work out to shops. As life goes on, time becomes more and more valuable.
     
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  8. Aug 27, 2020 at 4:07 PM
    #8
    elduder

    elduder Well-Known Member

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    Fully understand not wanting or being able to do it yourself, just thought I had to make it clear $500 was a rip off. Good luck.
     
  9. Aug 27, 2020 at 4:59 PM
    #9
    muddog321

    muddog321 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    09 tacoma doublecab 4wd trd w/e locker Pyrite mica color
    TW 1-piece driveshaft All Pro and Budbuilt skid plates OME Dakar rear springs 3" with 5100 5100 front set at 2" stock springs Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/70R16 Powerstop rotors and z36 pads Rebuilt rear and all wheel bearings front /rear Denso 130A rebuilt alternator New OEM idlers and tensioner assembly New AC compressor New PS hose and flushed Rhino front guard ARE shell
    elduder you were right and as you all said I made more calls to find out the real facts and cost.
    The older OME Dakars early 2015 (ARB CS047R) came with rubber bushings in the front of the leaf springs and then the yellow bushings (ARB OMESB108) were required (or others) for the rear bushings. I never greased them either as I was used to rubber that you left alone - that was a mistake as the pics show! So cheap fix now to replace and lesson learned. I'll spray them down with white lithium every 3 months or when I remember. Others may benefit from this post as its an additional location of a rear clunk.
     
    elduder and 6 gearT444E like this.
  10. Aug 27, 2020 at 5:33 PM
    #10
    crackils

    crackils Sith Lord Jar Jar

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    Where in FL are you? I bet you could find a local member that is (a) competent & (b) won't rip you off ... $500 :confused:
     
  11. Aug 27, 2020 at 5:53 PM
    #11
    Chris(NJ)

    Chris(NJ) Well-Known Member

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  12. Aug 27, 2020 at 6:01 PM
    #12
    Armyhater458

    Armyhater458 Well-Known Member

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    OME 887, LR UCA, Dakar 095 (medium duty), Dick Cepek Extreme Country 255/85/16
    Thi
    This is what I have sitting for my replacement leaf pack. My bushings are good, but the medium duty dakars look like a w.
     
  13. Aug 27, 2020 at 6:06 PM
    #13
    GrundleJuice

    GrundleJuice Well-Known Member

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    [S]Un-Molested[/S] Lightly Molested
    Those yellow bushes are urethane (I think) and in any case they are not compatible with just any grease. Some (maybe most?) petroleum based greases might attack them and cause issues. White lithium should be ok but doesn't hurt to check their website. I think they recommend silicone based grease.

    Not saying that I think the wrong grease caused this, just an FYI for when they get replaced so the installer doesn't slap some bearing grease on them.
     
  14. Aug 28, 2020 at 12:01 AM
    #14
    muddog321

    muddog321 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    09 tacoma doublecab 4wd trd w/e locker Pyrite mica color
    TW 1-piece driveshaft All Pro and Budbuilt skid plates OME Dakar rear springs 3" with 5100 5100 front set at 2" stock springs Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/70R16 Powerstop rotors and z36 pads Rebuilt rear and all wheel bearings front /rear Denso 130A rebuilt alternator New OEM idlers and tensioner assembly New AC compressor New PS hose and flushed Rhino front guard ARE shell
    OK so looked up the grease for poly bushings and best is as you said "Silicon with PTFE" or manufacturers type (my case ARB).
    Here's an article for others if interested:
    https://www.suspension.com/blog/the-best-grease-for-polyurethane-bushings/#formula5

    With new bushings when do I have to actually regrease them - years later or sooner?
    Do I have to unload suspension and loosen the rear bolt thru and try to cramp some into the center pin or pull it all apart to lube that center pin?
    Thanks for all the info.
     
  15. Aug 28, 2020 at 5:06 AM
    #15
    GrundleJuice

    GrundleJuice Well-Known Member

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    Service intervals will depend on things like mileage, conditions (lots if rain/water/mud?) and time. Poly bushings usually tell you when they are dry via some squeaking and other unpleasant noises. As far as lubrication application, unless you have shackle bolts with grease fittings, you will have to pull the bolts and apply lube manually. Even with the special bolts, it only gets grease to the inside of the sleeve and not between the sleeve and the bushing.

    Yes, unload the leaf pack before pulling any bolts out.
     
  16. Aug 28, 2020 at 7:11 AM
    #16
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    I have had this issue with my own. Same feeling, rear end just had a bit of a clunk. Mostly when setting off. It's the leaf pack lifting.

    Mine failed in very interesting ways. They started to deform and almost "seep" out of the eyelets. And for most of you saying, "This is a simple replacement" hold onto your asses....because it might not be. My driver's side was simple. Unbolt, drop down, replace bushing, reassemble...done. However, the passenger side took nearly 8 hours. This is because the bushing failing allowed the support bolt to deform/bend slightly. That wouldn't be a huge issue except the bolt goes through a steel sleeve that's INSIDE the bushing. The problem with that is the sleeve locks in place and thus you can't slide the bushing out. So you're thinking "oh, just cut it off". Yes, now you have the bolt head and end off and it still won't fall off the hanger. To add insult to injury, the hanger totally is obstructed for getting much in there and the bushing sleeve itself is protected by the leaf pack eyelet. Best course of action is to use an air hammer to knock it out. Took me forever because I didn't have an air hammer. I bought one specifically for this purpose. Pictures included.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  17. Sep 8, 2020 at 5:44 AM
    #17
    muddog321

    muddog321 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    09 tacoma doublecab 4wd trd w/e locker Pyrite mica color
    TW 1-piece driveshaft All Pro and Budbuilt skid plates OME Dakar rear springs 3" with 5100 5100 front set at 2" stock springs Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/70R16 Powerstop rotors and z36 pads Rebuilt rear and all wheel bearings front /rear Denso 130A rebuilt alternator New OEM idlers and tensioner assembly New AC compressor New PS hose and flushed Rhino front guard ARE shell
    After I got the rear changed (only 1 hr labor) all smooth again and the lower and front bushings are stock Toyota rubber and good so left alone.

    Took some measurements and pics of the height and clearences for anyone interested with stock tire size 265/70R16s and Falkens.
    Front with stock springs on 5100s set at top or 2.5 lift after being on for 5 years and overall is 35 1/2" and tire to body 6 1/2" running full steel skids and Rhino bar.
    Rear with Dakar heavy springs after 5 years is 37 3/4' and tire to body 9 1/4" no payload only a shell. Levels out towing or with a bed full of stuff.

    new bushing.jpg
    front height.jpg
    front tire to body.jpg
    rear height.jpg
    rear tire to body.jpg
     
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  18. Sep 8, 2020 at 8:24 AM
    #18
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    Good to hear. What did the old bushings look like when they came out?
     
  19. Sep 9, 2020 at 1:57 AM
    #19
    muddog321

    muddog321 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    09 tacoma doublecab 4wd trd w/e locker Pyrite mica color
    TW 1-piece driveshaft All Pro and Budbuilt skid plates OME Dakar rear springs 3" with 5100 5100 front set at 2" stock springs Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/70R16 Powerstop rotors and z36 pads Rebuilt rear and all wheel bearings front /rear Denso 130A rebuilt alternator New OEM idlers and tensioner assembly New AC compressor New PS hose and flushed Rhino front guard ARE shell
    Crushed and ripped apart - sorry no pics taken of them before trashing. Towing a boat and launching in ocean then washing off each time flushed out all the grease I guess so they bound up and self destructed. Now I know - the stock ones are fine as no lube required on them.
     
  20. Sep 9, 2020 at 8:09 AM
    #20
    OverlandTRD

    OverlandTRD Active Member

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    Doesn't seem anyone else has mentioned it, but good chance your hangers are bent...
    Just by looking at the photos, it would appear they are, which will cause premature failure of your bushings...
    Have a look from the rear, you'll likely notice they are cambered...
    Id get them sorted and straight before replacing the bushings
     

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