ORI-Struts Available from BAMF

Planning on it, we've got one big fab job thats eating up all the equipment and techs to finish, so I'm on jackstands til then hahaha. I'm thinking coming down a total of two inches should be the sweet spot for these. if I could have 2" less shaft showing all the time it seems like it'll be right on the money.

 

Ok, so after flipping the top hats to the downward position, which seems to be the way they were intended to be mounted in the first place after seeing a few pics in this thread, and installing my reservoirs in the engine bay I now can give an accurate quality breakdown. The facts:

Driver side Upper PSI: 825
Driver side Lower PSI: 200
Passenger side Upper PSI: 725
Passenger side Lower PSI: 200

Amount of chrome showing on each side is right at about 5" giving me 3" of down travel and 5 up. Ride quality is highly desirable, single bounce when doing 45-50 and getting all 4 tires off the ground, shocks cycle and truck goes down, and then right back up to ride height with a very smooth transition at that speed. Seems to soak up a lot of the small stuff as well, almost responding like a flutter valve would in a custom shimmed King, very little road feel is translated into the cab. Body roll is very controlled even with all the weight I have over the cab, custom roof basket and 250 pound Mt. Mckinley tent on a DOM bed rack. Corners really flat even at high speeds (+45mph)
Overall I'm totally stoked about these bad boys now. Before I had the resi's I had upward of 1000 PSI in each upper and 6.5-7 inches of chrome shaft showing, so no down travel at all. This is a huge improvement.

 

@JLee

Hey Jerry, which way do the top hats go? I got mine 2nd hand with no instructions. I think they are the BAMF hats. Mounting tabs up or down?



I posted this in another thread and most people told me the tabs go up, but it seems to me they should point down. Can they go either way? It seems in all your photos the tabs are down.

 

The threads go up on the top hat.

 

were the pictures of the tabs down a different design?

 

No its the same top plate in both of those pictures just flipped. With them down you will need limit straps or you will blow your CV's the first time you flex out in 4WD.

 

Oh I gotcha! Thanks for the insight!

 

Hey Jerry and others-
I'm extremely interested in these, and would like to clear up a couple questions I have:

1. What is the total travel that can be gotten out of a stock uca and aftermarket uca (I.e.-how much travel total with the Ori's in this config.)

2. Can I run 10" Ori's with limit straps with aftermarket ucas for now-in case I go with +2" Lt later?

 

With Superbumps and LR UCA's I am pulling about 11" of travel at the hub. That's full droop to fully compressed bumps. The superbumps compress quite a bit more than the stock bumps so you gain an inch or more of up travel by going to them. With 33's on hard landings I was hitting my subframe on the ground... Adding a 3/8" spacer to the bumps helped mostly fix that.

I think you can fit a 10" on stock. It might be pretty close to bottoming out at full stuff, but if you kept the stock bumps on it should be fine. Jerry would know for sure.

 

You're going to need to post pics / video of cycling your suspension at that 11" for proof amigo. Even with aftermarket uniball uppers and lowers without a CO even installed 10" is fish tale measuring. A stock length arm suspension with ball joints just is not going to pull that much travel...prove me wrong.

 

I don't have a vid. Maybe I'll have to do one one of these days. I've posted pics before and taken shit for it in the past. When I pulled out the bump and shock I can cycle just under 11.5". On the upper and lower ends of that the CV's will start to bind so I wouldn't ever run that much. My superbumps are limiting a little of that with the spacers in and the ORI's stop my droop just before the CV binds so I am probably pulling just under 11" or right at it.

These pics aren't the best. I took them while I was installing the superbumps and ORI's, but they are one set I have.

 

No tape measure here, but this is with the shocks completed deflated and then inflated all the way to full droop.

 

Thanks a bunch! @BradyT88!

 

So what is the actual usable travel with wheels on, bumps / straps or when the CV binds at droop ? 8.5 - 9" ? Even with a +2 kit you can't get 11" because the CV's bind at droop.

 

I've measured it just shy of 11" at the wheels with everything bolted together like I run it with no CV binding issues.

 

This just does not make any sense ? When I had a mid travel kit with Dirt King uniball uppers and lowers even without the CO's installed it would only cycle just under 10" bumped and everyone with Total Chaos uppers and lowers is getting the same thing and the limiting factor is the misalignment spacer bottoming out. So those uniball kits are mechanically limited at 10" or less so how on the world are you guys getting 11" with ball joints ? It just does not seem physically / mechanically possible ?

 

It may be that ball joints offer more range of motion than uniballs. The main plus for uniballs is that they are stronger. JBA arms use balljoints and in these pics he claims they have better range of motion than the uniballs.

http://jeepinbyal.com/toyota/jba-std-high-caster-upper-a-arms-for-2005-14-toyota-tacoma.html

The pictures in question are the ones on the far right.

 

When I installed my ORI's with n0rth's help he had just got his TC UCA's on his truck. Putting them side by side with my LR UCA's; we found that my LR's had more articulation. Which was ironic because he specifically got the TC's to replace his LR's when he got the ORI's because he was worried about the LR's limiting his travel.

 

I think I'll be going this route! SounSounds like the best of all worlds for a daily/wheeler!

Thanks for the info guys!

 

I am bringing this back to life!!!
How are these holding up? I will be 4-linking my rear and thinking about using the ORI's.