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Output of Stock Alternator

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Evil Monkey, Jan 9, 2008.

  1. Jan 9, 2008 at 5:15 PM
    #1
    Evil Monkey

    Evil Monkey [OP] There's an evil monkey in my truck

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    Is the stock V6 alternator capable of driving a 1000 watt amplifier?
     
  2. Jan 9, 2008 at 5:53 PM
    #2
    concrete jedi

    concrete jedi Well-Known Member

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    Broken and scratched tailgate, cracked rear tail light lens, coffee stain in driver seat.
    I doubt the panel box in my house would serve that ! :eek:
     
  3. Jan 9, 2008 at 6:07 PM
    #3
    piercedtiger

    piercedtiger Devout Atheist

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    Do you have the tow package? I know the one that comes with the tow package is rated for 130amps. (not sure what the non-tow stock alt puts out) Hell, I run an 800W amp on my Corolla's 80amp alt... Although I do have a red top under the hood, and a Wal-Mart battery in the trunk to help keep the lights from dimming when the bass hits. But I still get 14.4 from the car so the amp could potentially put out closer to 1080W (which is probably why it's blown 3 subs).

    Battery is more important I believe. Battery powers the amp, and alt recharges the battery when the amp isn't sucking a lot of juice from the battery. So upgrade the battery if you need to later, and add a second one afterwards if you get the strobe light effect.
     
  4. Jan 9, 2008 at 6:13 PM
    #4
    piercedtiger

    piercedtiger Devout Atheist

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    Ah.... According to this site: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-ohm.htm

    You only need around 77 amps to run a 1,000w amp if you get 13v from the battery (which is what I read off of mine). If I'm reading it correctly. Stock alternator should be fine.

    Also looks like I only need 75amps in my car, but with the alt only doing 80 I'm probably pushing it. Thus the strobe light effect. :D
     
  5. Jan 9, 2008 at 7:53 PM
    #5
    Evil Monkey

    Evil Monkey [OP] There's an evil monkey in my truck

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    I do have the tow package. Thanks.
     
  6. Jan 9, 2008 at 7:57 PM
    #6
    piercedtiger

    piercedtiger Devout Atheist

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    Ah yes... it's in your sig... duh... :laugh:
     
  7. Jan 9, 2008 at 8:00 PM
    #7
    lsocoee

    lsocoee My hair is all natural Moderator

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    I doubt that you will be drawing 1000 watts often. Add on a cap and that will help everything when it hits hard.
     
  8. Jan 9, 2008 at 8:29 PM
    #8
    lsocoee

    lsocoee My hair is all natural Moderator

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    I prever WAV
    Watts=Amps*Volts

    Also, I would bet that the 1000 watts should go with 12V and not 13V.
     
  9. Jan 9, 2008 at 8:39 PM
    #9
    Evil Monkey

    Evil Monkey [OP] There's an evil monkey in my truck

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    Yeah, I remember all that stuff. I just didn't know what the Tacoma's alternator output was. I took electronics classes in the Navy. I was a flight simulator tech (Tradevman) and an Aviation Electrician (F-14s). :D

    I noticed the Peak/RMS thing when I was shopping for amps. If my memory serves me right, I can convert Peak to RMS by multiplying by 0.707. So 150 watts peak is about 106 watts RMS.
     
  10. Jan 10, 2008 at 6:28 AM
    #10
    piercedtiger

    piercedtiger Devout Atheist

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    Thanks guys. I took electrical engineering classes years ago, but needed a reminder on the formula. That site was one of the first results in google, and I thought it was cool since I could just dump numbers in and not think about it! :laugh:

    As for the 13V vs 12V, measure your truck. Yes, it's supposed to be 12V, but the vehicles normally put out more. Which means your amp will get more power. For example my MTX 801D amp is rated for 800W (assuming peak), but has 75amps worth of fuses. P=IE Means 75x*12v=900W Ok, so you figure 900W and it blows the fuses, but I could easily get 800-850 out of it so their rating is true (unlike other amp companies). BUT, since my car puts out 14.4V the equation changes: 75amp*14.4V=1080W. So now my 800W amp could potentially put out 1000W because my car actually does the 14.4V that most companies use to inflate their amp ratings.

    Now my truck hovers around 13V-14V with it usually just over 13V. Thus the reason I used 13 instead of 12. You'd have to measure the actual output on your truck to adjust the equation.
     
  11. May 6, 2008 at 8:31 AM
    #11
    canuck16

    canuck16 Member

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    Can the rear 115v power outlet with tow pkg power a campershell a/c with these stats:
    Nominal Cooling Capacity (BTU)* 13,500
    Electrical Rating 115V, 60 Hz, 1 Phase
    Required Circuit Breaker 20
    Locked Rotor Amps 59
    Full-Load Amps, approx. – Cooling 13.4 (1)
    Full-Load Amps, approx. – Heat Strip 13.8 (2)
    Running Watts – Cooling 1,500 (1)
    Running Watts – Heat Strip 1,600 (2)

    thanks

    -Canuck
     
  12. May 6, 2008 at 8:41 AM
    #12
    Roland

    Roland My other ride has sails

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    Not even close. I think it's output is only 400 watts.
     
  13. May 6, 2008 at 8:58 AM
    #13
    piercedtiger

    piercedtiger Devout Atheist

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    Which is something like 3-3.6amps.
     
  14. May 6, 2008 at 9:26 AM
    #14
    canuck16

    canuck16 Member

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  15. May 6, 2008 at 9:32 AM
    #15
    piercedtiger

    piercedtiger Devout Atheist

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    bigger aftermarket inverter. Like a 2000watt one wired straight to the battery (or a second one!) with large cables, and a custom outlet in the bed.
     
  16. May 6, 2008 at 9:34 AM
    #16
    lsocoee

    lsocoee My hair is all natural Moderator

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    I was just thinking that. The stock towing alternator would really be struggling and the startup power required by the AC would probably blow the fuse.
     
  17. May 6, 2008 at 5:16 PM
    #17
    piercedtiger

    piercedtiger Devout Atheist

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    Bigger inverter, not alternator. The stock towing 130amp alternator would probably be fine, but he needs a bigger inverter to switch 12vdc to 120vac. Something like 2000W to give enough headroom. Could be mounted in the bed under the cap with heavy gauge wire to under the hood. Stock battery might be ok, but if he wants to run it while the truck is off then a second battery is the way to go. Something like a deep cycle Optima or Odyssey.
     
  18. May 6, 2008 at 6:46 PM
    #18
    RelentlessFab

    RelentlessFab Tacoma offroad armor fabricating beast Vendor

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    ok, well i have another question that relates to this somewhat: Can my Tacoma power 6- 55W Hella 500 series Offroad lights without an issue(in addition to the factory lights on)? Im planning on adding 2 on my new bumper, and then building a light bar over the cab with 4 more of them for 6 total.
     
  19. May 6, 2008 at 7:01 PM
    #19
    piercedtiger

    piercedtiger Devout Atheist

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    Do you have the tow package? If I'm doing the math right... P=IA
    55w*6= 330W
    330w/12v=27.5A

    Tow package bumps the alternator up to a 130amp one so you should be fine. Hell, I ran an 800W amp on my Corolla's 80 amp alt. Headlights dimmed a little when the bass hit, but then I upgraded to an optima red top and second battery in the trunk.

    If anything, you could always add a second battery for the extra lights. I'm planning on doing that at some point, but I also want on-board-air and a few other things.
     
  20. May 6, 2008 at 8:32 PM
    #20
    lsocoee

    lsocoee My hair is all natural Moderator

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    The stock output barely meets the given specs. I didn't see the startup amperage, but that will likely be even higher. If he wants to run his cab AC, lights, aftermarket stereo, etc...his stock alternator will need replacing soon for a larger one.
     
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