Overheated '05. Failed leak down. Next steps?

I drove yesterday up and over Monarch Pass. CEL came on about 15 miles east of Gunnison. Temp guage read just over 1/2 way which is higher than normal. I pulled over. steam rising from coolant overflow. Guage went to the top. coolant boiling in the overflow. HOT. 1 bar on the cell phone. no internet.

2005 4wd. 206k miles. 35s. 488s. So it runs at higher than normal RPMs up and down the pass. I did replace the head gasket and water pump 11k miles / 1 year ago and it has run great since that time.

I proceeeded to ...

1. open the hood. it was about 50* raining and really windy so that helped it cool faster than normal.
2. I put the scanner on it and live reading was around 250*. I did nothing until it was around 185*. I didn't check the time but I'd guess 30-40 minutes. Codes are below.
3. At this point the overflow reservoir level was between low and high. Looked normal. Oil did smell slightly burnt when I checked the dip stick.

I tried to start it ... cranking, but zero engine rotation. Almost a flat sound from the starter. no duh, duh, duh, duh if you know what I mean. Belt looks good. Voltage good.

At this point I called AAA and we eventually towed it to the house. So ... now I am thinking I pull the plugs and start it to see if coolant comes out. Does this sound right? I have 2 shops nearby in town and I'll call them today, but curious if there are other steps I should take? Also, maybe best case scenario ... I pull the plugs. crank. put plugs back and it starts. Am I pulling the head either way to check for hg/rod or other engine damage? Or ... if it starts, runs and sounds OK, am I possibly OK?



THANKS!

reference threads - last night's reading:

• Overheating, now doesn't start
• https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/p0117-code-on-06-v6-4wd.823901/

 

I pulled the plugs and cranked it over. A bit of oil would spray out of the DS rear cylinder each crank. everything else is dry. Would that prevent the engine from starting? I'm not sure of next steps. Compression test?
https://youtu.be/bspVKOlOMBM

 

From what your describing it sounds like it's toast (headgaskets severely blown), a compression test should tell you for sure.

 

thanks for the reply. that is also my fear. mechanic friend in town here suspects it's the same and is suggesting new motor after a quick look. damn.

 

Yeap,05-06 model years had the old style headgasket,so a few of the would blow between 130k on up.

 

Overheating these aluminum block engines is death.

 

I put it back together- cranked. Same no start. I’ll compression test but I’m guessing It’s toast. Trying to figure out next steps - if or where I should / can source an engine.

 

What are the compression numbers?

 

Did you mill the heads last go around? Two hg’s in 11k is a shitty ordeal.

That’s 3vze fuckery.

 

Cylinder 1 has 60psi compression. I have it at TDC and was going to do a leak down but my air source isn't working. However, while the coolant overflow looks good the radiator wasn't full. Well ... here is why it won't fill up. Going straight through to the exhaust. HG or cracked head.

 

leak down results for cylinders 1, 3, 5 verifying each valve is closed for the test ... all 3 results were very similar between 70 and 75% leakage just in the red. I could do the other side but is there any reason? I could hear the air hissing out but couldn't isolate it. Based on the pic above it's going direct to the exhaust.

cylinder 1 ~73%


cylinder 5 ~ 77%

 

Keep the truck and get the motor fixed,the new trucks have problems and are too expensive.

 

Maybe start looking into putting in a used engine in it? $2500-$3K (?) for the engine, plus your time if you are DIY'ing it.

 

This is my current plan. I am starting to look for a used engine ... any recommendations would be appreciated. thanks!

 

Damn dude, thats shitty. Best of luck with the swap!

 

leakdown. Compression.

combustion leak test fluid wouldn't work. Doesn't run.

You need spark, air, fuel. You're probably getting all of that but no compression and not containing things within the cylinder(s).

Replace engine or rebuild.
Question is if you rebuild, what else may be damaged besides just HG itself, potential head warp, potential block shape and surface uneven. Plus overheated

 

Right. So... replace.

 

So true...Great advice !!!

 

Or pull the heads
Have them redone

measure the block for straightness

cheaper

personal choice

also potentially cheaper. And better
v8 swap

 

Sounds like an engine swap is in your future. Shop around A LOT! When my daughter’s Accord threw a timing belt at something like 290,000 miles, we were given estimates all over the map. A small local shop (Bernie’s in Green Bay) used his small shop friendship connections to source me an engine and did the whole thing for less than most places wanted for just the engine. ($1,600 all-in with a new timing belt.) I’ve never used another independent mechanic since.