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Overkill To Put A 1AMP Fuse For LED Light Switch?

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016+)' started by Slimjim956, Apr 16, 2021.

  1. Apr 16, 2021 at 10:31 PM
    #1
    Slimjim956

    Slimjim956 [OP] Member

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    Going to be installing an extra switches into the truck in the center console area. I am going to tap off another switch to power the led light for the new switch. I read that the LED light in the switch pulls maybe 100Mah. Is it needed to put a fuse in line to the new switch for just powering the LED light of the switch itself? I would rather not do it if needed. I know the safer way is to always use a fuse but idk if it is necessary with such a low Mah draw?

    Link for the switch being installed
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CDD1WMY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8
     
  2. Apr 16, 2021 at 10:36 PM
    #2
    whatstcp

    whatstcp currently drunk so don't listen to me

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    instead of using those crappy t taps to splice into a wire, or whatever other way you were thinking about splicing into the wire, you can try to use a Add-a-fuse to tap into the circuit that maintains the stock fuse in the stock circuit but pulls power and adds a fuse to the new circuit. You will need to run a bit more wire from the center console over to the interior cabin fusebox but if you're worried about a fuse in the new circuit I would say it's the easiest, less invasive, and safer alternative.
     
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  3. Apr 16, 2021 at 10:39 PM
    #3
    Puppypunter

    Puppypunter Well-Known Member

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    If you are taping from another switch, you don't need the extra fuse as you will piggyback off of it's protection. That being said, @whatstcp is right about t taps. They suck! Hit up @kmorgan3 and he probably has a better solution
     
  4. Apr 16, 2021 at 10:53 PM
    #4
    Slimjim956

    Slimjim956 [OP] Member

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    I will deff be using an add a fuse to give the switch power. I am talking about putting a fuse on just the wire that is responsible for telling the LED light in the switch to turn on when the dash lights come on. Maybe it is even just a signal wire that does that and no power is in that line? I am not sure. I will try to test it tomorrow and see what the output is.
     
  5. Apr 16, 2021 at 10:53 PM
    #5
    OnHartung'sRoad

    OnHartung'sRoad -So glad I didn't take the other...

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    Its not so much the lights that the fuse protects, it’s also the wire if it rubs or gets cut by something and shorts on metal...
    32C65BFA-860D-497C-8D09-2B3C8CC48036.jpg
    And the switch can go bad also but the wires are the weak points, especially where they tie in to your source like with T-taps as mentioned.
     
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  6. Apr 16, 2021 at 10:54 PM
    #6
    ksimms92

    ksimms92 Well-Known Member

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    Yes, @whatstcp is correct, don’t use those t-taps. Add a fuse is much better, or an auxiliary fuse panel even better yet.

    Also, the fuse is sized to protect the wire not the device device.

    Realistically, you’re not going to have any issue with a 1 amp fuse. But it’s important you understand that you need to have the fuse sized so that it will do it’s job and blow before burning through your wire.
     
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  7. Apr 16, 2021 at 10:55 PM
    #7
    Puppypunter

    Puppypunter Well-Known Member

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    There is power and current in that line, but since you are just adding the load of the LED in the switch, you'll be fine. That circuit has protection on it already, so no real need for more.
     
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  8. Apr 16, 2021 at 10:58 PM
    #8
    Puppypunter

    Puppypunter Well-Known Member

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    Don't get me wrong, it won't hurt to add it, but not needed.
     
  9. Apr 16, 2021 at 11:02 PM
    #9
    Slimjim956

    Slimjim956 [OP] Member

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    I will be installing 2 switches in total. Think it is safe to grab led power for both switches from one location or should I grab from 2 separate locations?
     
  10. Apr 16, 2021 at 11:05 PM
    #10
    Puppypunter

    Puppypunter Well-Known Member

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    You will be fine with 2. I have 6 added on the left side of the wheel, 5 on the roof console, and 3 added to the center. Barley even registers load, and they are all the same circuit.
     
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  11. Apr 16, 2021 at 11:05 PM
    #11
    ktbell444

    ktbell444 As lost as a lieutenant during land nav

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    LED's pull very little current. I can't imagine powering two tiny LED's will affect anything.
     
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  12. Apr 16, 2021 at 11:44 PM
    #12
    Slimjim956

    Slimjim956 [OP] Member

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    So if I use an add a fuse and pick up switch power on say the tail light in the fuse box and then hook the switch up to a relay to power my accessory. Will using the add a fuse connected into the tail light illuminate the switch when the lights are turned on? And.. can I still use the switch to power my relay on and off when I want to use the accessory without the lights being on?

    If that is the case then I would rather just just use the add a fuse instead of splicing into another wire of another switch. I think that is what the other guys are referring to but I just want to confirm that is the case.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2021
  13. Apr 17, 2021 at 12:54 AM
    #13
    Puppypunter

    Puppypunter Well-Known Member

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    You could use an add a fuse to the taillight circuit to drive a relay (once again, really low draw to drive a relay coil. Usually 80-200mA), but by doing so, you would only be able to trigger the relay when the taillights are on. So no, you would not be able to use it to power the relay on and off when the lights are off.
     
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  14. Apr 17, 2021 at 3:54 AM
    #14
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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  15. Apr 17, 2021 at 4:41 AM
    #15
    GrundleJuice

    GrundleJuice Well-Known Member

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    Fuses are to protect the wiring (or lowest load carrying capable component) in a circuit from a short. A short to ground should be the worst case scenario that a fuse needs to protect against. Make it big enough to carry the load plus a margin but small enough that it will blow before the smallest gauge wiring gets hot or other things fail. For example, If you piggy back off of a 15 amp fuse circuit but use 24AWG wiring to supply voltage and ground to the switch & lights, a ground along the 24AWG wiring part of the circuit may not blow the 15 amp fuse before the wire gets red hot and melts off the insulation. In that case, a small fuse (1 amp would be sufficient for 100mA) between the factory wiring or fuse (wherever you tap into) and load would protect the new wiring and light/switch.
     
  16. Apr 17, 2021 at 7:27 AM
    #16
    Homiec

    Homiec Well-Known Member

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    Slimjim, I just finished a similar project on my Taco, even used the same zombie light switch (and two other switches). Here's what I did and a few notes/tips (not as elegant as Caribe's solution but didn't know that was a thing until now...)

    - Used a fuse tap on the tail lamp fuse. This fuse is hot when the lights are on. Our fuses are low profile mini blade. My local autozone had one. Note there's a correct way to orient a fuse tap based on which side of the factory fuse is the 'hot' side. Has to do with how current flows through the fuses based on how fuse taps are wired. Watch this youtube video

    - Make sure you're getting the correct switch size as there a two different ones--a taller, more rectangle one and a shorter, more square one

    - With a fuse tap, you won't be able to get the factory fuse box cover back on. Get this one from MESO. It's worth it and has punchouts for add-a-fuses. Stay away from vampire taps.

    - The smallest low profile mini blade I could find for the fuse tap is 2 amps (and had to mail order it). More than sufficient. The switch can handle 3 amps and the wiring below can easily handle 2 amps so the fuse will still be the weakest link. If you can find a 1 amp low profile mini blade fuse for the fuse tap all the better. Of course if you're using the switch for anything with significant power draw, use a relay. Amazon and harbor freight have pre-fabbed harnesses for this.

    - For wiring, I used this 18 awg 3 conductor wire from amazon (a bit overkill; 20 awg would have been fine). You can pick 2-6 conductors and wire gauge when ordering, depending on how many switches/switch leds you plan to power. Removing the black outer sheath from this multi-conductor wire is a bit of a pain but neater than running separate wires. I ran the wires underneath the carpet to the center console and tucked it behind the kick panel which is right by the fuse box.

    - Since you're looking at multiple switches, you'd have multiple conductors going back to the fuse tap so think about how you want that wiring to 'merge'/integrate at the fuse tap (bullet connectors, etc.).

    - For removing the switch blank in the center console, you'll see write ups about removing a bunch of trim panels to get to it. Not necessary. I used one of the small metal 'spatulas' from
    this tool kit to slide underneath an adjacent switch to release the 'paw' holding it in. Once you get an adjacent switch out, you can reach in w/ your finger an punch out the switch blank. I found the switch blanks didn't have enough clearance for the spatulas tool and didn't want to risk gouging the dash plastic (which is soft and cheap).

    - A 3-4 ft garden zip tie from home depot is a great wire snake BTW.

    - As Caribe mentioned, this approach means the switch LEDs won't dim/brighten with the factory switches. Caribe's prefab harness is certainly the faster/easier/more elegant way to go.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2021
  17. Apr 21, 2021 at 6:47 PM
    #17
    Slimjim956

    Slimjim956 [OP] Member

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    Wow that is cool. I like how you can dim them when using the harness. I will have to pick one up. I may hook up a few switches to it. Thanks man!
     
  18. Apr 21, 2021 at 6:47 PM
    #18
    Slimjim956

    Slimjim956 [OP] Member

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    Thanks for the write up. Deff gonna grab the Mesco punch out cover. That is really really nifty.
     
  19. Apr 22, 2021 at 4:07 AM
    #19
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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