overlanding subwoofer

anyone know if a Kicker Hideaway 10” fits under the driver seat?

from what I’ve found online 8 does but 10 is better

is a Kicker Key amp also needed?

 

Kicker Hideaway subs have built in amps. The kicker key 200.4 would be for aftermarket speakers.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/premium-audio-upgrade-for-less-than-250.510424/

On 3rd gens the 8" Hideaway will fit under seats, 10" will have to go in rear storage cubby.

 

I think I have the Kicker 8"

$240 11HS8 8 150 Watt Hideaway Compact Car Audio Powered Subwoofer Sub HS8

11HS8 (it was 2015ish, so whatever model was current back then) and it barely fit under the passenger seat, see photos.

The larger one (at the time) wouldn't fit. And, the passenger seat had a little more clearance than the driver's, if I recall correctly. It's been a while!





This Kicker has worked great since 11/2015. Eventually did the doors - the Subaru tweeters and Kickers in all four doors. Head is stock, and I have no additional amp etc.

 

Check out the JBL Fuse. It splits into 2 separate pods for each seat. 8 inch woofer with passive radiator. I just ordered it to fill my mid bass range since I already have a large subwoofer. The reviews on audio forums for them are great. I’m going to use a Timpano 500.4 bridged for 100w rms per pod. Just another option besides the kicker.

 

The Kicker speakers and brackets were from Crutchfield. The Subaru tweeters I got from Amazon or Subaru, the swap done thanks to posts on this board... Subaru part# is H631SFJ101.

Reference:
https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/Upgraded-Tweeters/49926072/H631SFJ101.html

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tweeter-swap.716109/#post-25486972

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...plicing-cutting-or-soldering-required.623038/

 

Actually…

I asked in seat delete thread if folks resolved added road noise with wood and Raamat. Nope, still louder.

In that case might avoid building a rear platform then and just keep the rear stock which would give more room to play with, to put a 10” enclosed sub behind the seat in plastic tub, and separate amp

I found 3rd gen posts say they managed to fit a 10 under the front seat and that bracket underneath can be changed to a different angle for room

supposedly the 10 is basically same size but 2mm taller

maybe only one way to find out, to try and fit and if not Crutchfield has 60 day returns

I don’t know if the Kicker Key is needed as folks say just putting an 8” is limited and better with also putting the Key

but last thread I saw with putting a Key, guy also had a stock head unit whatever wattage that is (assuming built in internal amp)

I did already do the common mod of tweeters and RF speakers, plus truck came with Sony single din head unit from previous owner. It has a built in amp but it’s small.

so, in addition to changing underseat bracket angle

there is common mod 1” puck seat risers placed in back to raise seat improving comfort.

I’ll have to see if both of those combined hopefully allow just enough room for the 10

 

I removed my single seat in the rear, removed plastics, installed kilmat, closed cell foam, and a wooden panel for mounting my amps and I really didn’t notice a difference between stock. Granted, I have a loud exhaust, but if you really want low low bass you’ll have to make a sacrifice. You can reuse the stock seat bracket like I did for my platform.

This picture is from a few months ago during a mock up since the whole system is out of the truck now, but you get the picture. Gotta go balls to the wall lol.

 

Also OP, here is that JBL Fuse setup I was talking about in my previous reply. Just came in the mail today.

 

you got that amp separate also? How come?

those subs sound like a good idea considering it’s two instead of one…

i think they’re built in amp

haven’t figured out if I’ll need an amp too yet. So far currently only “power source” is the aftermarket Sony CDX unit which I think is anywhere around 55w-100w and a small size, which sounds too low of a number…

sound definitely improved noticeably after doing the door speakers and tweeters mod, but there’s barely any bass at all, getting beat by some cars stock. Doesn’t sound much different from Apple headphones…

I think they came out in 2013ish so previous owner probably installed the thing (head unit) a while ago. And it’s phased out.

was looking at Crutchfield to see what single DIN they sell now. Most popular sellers I think were Alpine and Sony for around $100 and although a different look, basically the same wattage specs it seemed like, +\- 2 watts…

I know Audis sound decent. Even if their “upgraded packages” ie Bose etc are paper door speakers - 99% of the time they come with an amp somewhere in the car and enclosed sub…(side trunk, spare tire enclosure, or 1 or 2 integrated into “rear deck lid”)

 

Nah there isn’t an amp integrated into this JBL unit. They are stand alone and require an amplifier.

the reason that you don’t hear any bass is because when you use the signal level inputs or stock wiring inputs for speakers, the head unit is going to suppress the bass frequencies in an attempt to not blow the stock speakers that many people will run on the headunit. Plus the signal strength straight from the headunit is usually not great. I will always advise getting an amp for powering your speakers and tweets if they are aftermarket as they will need a strong signal and proper rms wattage for clean and crisp sound.

But if you don’t want to go the amplified route, I would recommend the

$79 AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control

AudioControl LC2i. It is better than your typical Line Output Converter as it restores the bass frequency signals that are suppressed by the headunit. Don’t quote me on that, it’s a simplified explanation I saw somewhere. You can use this in line on your stock speaker inputs. This should restore the lower frequencies to your speakers.