OVTune 3.5L Tacoma Supercharger and Twin Turbo Systems

Sorry to hear about your daughter. Wish you and your family the best and hope it’s nothing serious. You’re doing great and I’m sure those of us who bought kits, we really appreciate the updates you give.

 

I grabbed some photos from the fsm, hopefully this’ll help someone. The fuel pipe subassembly in diagram 2 is attached to the DI pipes, so at least we know which fuel rails to pull. Should be easy with these pics I believe, but I’ll take a picture for OV when I’m in there if I’m the first to get to it. Diagram 3 are the PI rails for comparison.

Torque spec


Diagram 1


Diagram 2


Diagram 3

 

First off, it's IMPERATIVE, that you tape over any exposed intake ports at every step. Especially when replacing the Direct Injectors. Seals and spacers will pop off while removing injectors and you DO NOT want them flying into the engine. Some of the valves will be open and if things fly into there, you are going to have to remove your heads to get them. Absolutely do not think you can replace the injectors without crap flying into the engine. I had 2 or 3 seals pop off and land on the tape.

I pulled the entire Port Fuel Injection system out still attached to the lower intake manifold. You just have to be careful when lifting and lowering it to ensure the injectors do not hit anything as they extend below the lower manifold's bottom surface. Doing this will make things easier. Injector seals can expand once removed, making it extremely difficult to get them back in.




Also, you will need to remove the below circled fuel line. I believe it was a 17mm. It connects to the high pressure fuel pump. Removing both metal lines will make removing the Direct Injection rails immensely easier.



I put the Direct Injectors into the engine, then plugged in the wires, then put the rails on the injectors. This was a pain trying to get everything to mesh together with the wiring. The injectors need some elbow grease to get into the engine.

That being said, in retrospect it may have been easier to put the injectors on the rails with the wiring attached and put each rail in assembled already. Getting the individual injectors into the engine this way would be a little more difficult though as you would have to just man handle them in. Does the manual address this?

 

FSM that I found here on TW

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wCb1pU29yOgp9qlPwrKgqROwPGqj-VBu/view

 

I have not received tracking yet, but mat recently informed me that I was third to last in line to receive my kit. So I’m not expecting soon.

 

Good info @Turd Hawg @JamesT

@MESO attached a few photos a while back when doing his injectors swap, this is his post. With the combined info it will surely make it easier for others that’s yet to do it.

 

I’m on the same boat seems like... order 6194. The moment I get mine it’s getting installed. It is what it is at this point.

Is there a max psi we are being told to stay under for now? Would be nice to get an explanation of how boost is being managed and what safety features are built in.

Can someone with a catted dp confirm if they came with a second o2 bung?

 

Looks like the manual has you putting the injectors into the rails first and connecting all the wiring, then installing rail and injectors together into the engine. Sounds easier that way. Then you are using the bolts/nuts in an alternating manner to guide the injectors into the engine.

Key take-aways: oil the seals first (helps a lot), make sure everything is aligned, and take your time.

FYI, page 4347 for injector installation.

 

looks like that’s the best way to go, by using the power of tightening the bolts to suck them in, and of course using the method of tightening each bolt bits at a time in a criss-cross pattern much like doing head studs. I’ve had good success using Vaseline or assembly lube on the injector seals as well.

 

These are great pictures. Here you can see the two hardlines that need removed. Make sure the fuel pressure is relieved. This is a high pressure line. You have to completely remove both. Just trace the left hand one to the pump and disconnect there as well.

You can also see the port injection grooves. Be careful you don't impact the port injector tips anywhere around here. Once the manifold is on the studs, it will slide down into place easily without the injectors hitting anything.


Here you can see where the port injectors sit. This is with the Port Injection rails removed. You don't need to do this. Just disconnect the port fuel line and wire harnesses, unbolt the manifold (blue circles), and lift the manifold and port injection out in one piece. Set on a table upside down so the injectors don't get damaged.


Addition: Make sure your engine is clean. There is a lot of dirt and debris around your injectors once you start getting things apart. You don't want any of that crud getting knocked into your engine cylinders.

 

That is how I did it.
remove the passenger side rail first (after removing high pressure lines at the rear)
then drivers rail
inspect to make sure seals aren't stuck
then I put the new injectors in the rails first, installing drivers side first then passenger side.

 

Yeah, I'd say 4 out of 6 of mine had the seals still in the rail after removal. Like meso said, ensure you have a rubber and viton seal from each injector before putting new injectors back in.

 

URD has this in their instructions for their fuel pump upgrade. Does this apply for relieving the pressure prior to removing?

"Decompress the fuel system by removing the Circuit Opening Relay (labeled as C/OPN) from the fuse box located in the engine compartment behind the battery. This will prevent the fuel pump from running. Start the engine and let it idle until it stalls. Restart it a few times to ensure that all fuel pressure has been depleted"

 

That's essentially what the manual says. My truck has been sitting for a couple months so my high pressure system had already bled off.

 

Anyone know the name of these connectors? Was about to start the fuel pump install but Sadly mine got smashed when it was shipped @OVTune

 

https://www.deatschwerks.com/9-1037
if you can order that I will send you the money for it. Much faster than me ordering and trying to reship to you.

just zendesk me who you are.

 

I’m getting ready to install a long range fuel tank, does anyone know a model number and connector part number for the in tank fuel pump upgrade?
I’d really like to take care of that so I don’t need to drop the tank again.
What all should I do while I do that?

 

Based on the way Mat has us wiring the upgraded pump, I don't think you want to do that if you are planning to drive the truck before installing the turbo. Mat's setup has you combing signal wires, which is probably ok because his fuel controller talks a little differently to the pump. I'm thinking if you wire the pump up the way Mat advises, and run it on the stock fueling system and controller, your are going to have problems with fueling.

I'd recommend just waiting to install the tank until you get the turbo kit.

 

Yeah, my original plan was to wait. But I’m planning a trip in February that will need the long range tank. I keep postponing doing long trips waiting for this turbo. I’ve had the tank and a pile of parts waiting for the turbo kit to do anything.

I’m getting to the point now where I may just pull the truck apart and put it together the way I want it without the turbo or pump upgrade and depending on when these kits ship out I may have a big boy turbo kit for sale on Tacoma world next year. Anybody want a set of OV twin big boys?

Not sure I’ll want to drop the tank again.