1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

P0705 Park Neutral Switch

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by RustyC, Apr 8, 2010.

  1. May 6, 2012 at 8:51 AM
    #21
    Coolerman

    Coolerman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2011
    Member:
    #67571
    Messages:
    493
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dan
    Rochester, NY
    Vehicle:
    05 4x4 SR5 Access Cab
    OEM TRD OR wheels, Extang Solid Fold Tonneau cover, Pop and Lock PL8521, Overhead Temp/Compass, OEM led tail lights, Sport bucket seats, Wet Okole seat covers, rcbs204 lighted 4x4 switch, Weathertech in channel window vents, Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags, Weathertech digifit floor mats, Scanguage II, Hayden 678 Trans cooler, Western Suburbanite plow
    Update:
    I did the exact same "fix" Bobo describes above and the MIL or check engine light has gone off. I too did not see any visible signs of water or corrosion, but I used contact cleaner on the connector block and all 4 plugs that connect to it. I used some zip ties on the rubber boot in the engine compartment and then wrapped with electrical tape to help seal that entrance. This seems to have done the trick. Thanks a bunch tacomaworld and especially Bobo, Maxa and Joes06tacoma for their posts. :woot::thumbsup:

    Helpful links with pictures:

    This link shows pics of junction block and engine compartment entrance:
    http://www.scribd.com/doc/18857706/TSB027709

    This link has picks/instructions on how to remove the kick panel:
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/1475-05-drl-daytime-running-lights-install-oem.html

    PS. I didn't go to the dealer, but you would think Toyota would offer a similar fix as opposed to charging several grand to replace a wiring harness.
     
  2. May 6, 2012 at 10:01 AM
    #22
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2010
    Member:
    #28588
    Messages:
    3,061
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joe
    Central Coast, CA
    Vehicle:
    06 4x4 Off Road Access Cab v6 6spd
    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    Glad you got it taken care of. The TSB gives 4.5 hours to perform that job. Even if the dealer charges double that, at 100 bucks an hour that's 900 bucks. Charging over 1000 for a wiring harness is robbery.
     
  3. Jun 5, 2012 at 3:25 AM
    #23
    longislander

    longislander New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2011
    Member:
    #61880
    Messages:
    3
    Gender:
    Male
    had same prob on my 2005. park and rev light on and po705. dealer charging me $880 to repair coroded wiring and prndl switch.harness and block dry as a bone. getting it back hopefully today.
     
  4. Jun 5, 2012 at 5:26 AM
    #24
    Coolerman

    Coolerman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2011
    Member:
    #67571
    Messages:
    493
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dan
    Rochester, NY
    Vehicle:
    05 4x4 SR5 Access Cab
    OEM TRD OR wheels, Extang Solid Fold Tonneau cover, Pop and Lock PL8521, Overhead Temp/Compass, OEM led tail lights, Sport bucket seats, Wet Okole seat covers, rcbs204 lighted 4x4 switch, Weathertech in channel window vents, Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags, Weathertech digifit floor mats, Scanguage II, Hayden 678 Trans cooler, Western Suburbanite plow
    Bummer to hear that you are having to pay for that fix. I hope other members see this thread before they shell out big bucks. One other thing that I noticed when I fixed mine. There was a small hole (Factory type) in the left wheel well that probably had a plastic plug at some time. When I sealed mine up I noticed that this plug was missing. So I stuck a nut and bolt with washers in there to seal the hole. The hole was directly in front of the wiring harness entrance into the firewall and was probably a source of most of the water that was getting in.

    I have not had a problem since I cleaned mine up with contact cleaner and sealed that wiring entrance with electrical and duct tape.
     
  5. Jun 6, 2012 at 3:54 AM
    #25
    longislander

    longislander New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2011
    Member:
    #61880
    Messages:
    3
    Gender:
    Male
    well my prob was unrelated to the block and harness. the wires were corodded at the prndl switch and bad prndl switch, so prob a good idea to check that as well. like I said harness and block dry/sealed up fine. the dealers charge a ton of labor. $650 to change a $230 part...they suck you in by charging a high diagnostic fee then wave it if you do the expensive repair. i prob could of done it myself, but getting lazy in my old age
     
  6. Jun 15, 2012 at 8:14 AM
    #26
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 ASE Master Tech Vendor

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Member:
    #71846
    Messages:
    9,460
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bill
    Navarre, FL
    Vehicle:
    1997 Tacoma 4X4 AKA "Blue Beast"
    Multi-point tow hooks, new bored 2.7L engine, custom paint. 3 inch adjustable Fabtech front coils, 2.5 inch rear AAL. Front Aussie locker. LED bed lights. Full LED conversion interior and exterior. Relentless Fabrication front and rear bumpers. 4X4innovation sliders. BAMF bed rack. CVT rooftop tent.
    Glad to see so many of you have found a good, inexpensive work-around. I still wouldn't fault the dealers. Dealer techs and managers can only do what corporate says. The reason for these extensive repair options (i.e. replacing the entire harness v/s contact cleaner and a little sealer) is for liability and insurance. Every manufacturer has to make sure that their liability is near or at zero. If they put sealer in it, and something failed, causing an accident, then they would be liable.(meaning the individual dealership doing the repair) Where if the full repair recommended by corporate were done, then the liability would fall on a corporate level, where they have deep pockets, and dozens of lawyers on retainer. It protects the dealership at the dealer level. No small dealership could handle a multi-million dollar lawsuit. Not to mention bad press. If I own a dealership, and I do a repair that the manufacturer said to do, then my press release is that I followed the manufacturer's recommendation, and therefore it was not our fault.

    As for the information that many have supplied here, I say thumbs up and thank you for the info. You have probably saved many-a-tacoma owner lots of money for your hard work and dilligence. Thank you!
     
  7. Dec 10, 2012 at 1:58 PM
    #27
    naomijoe

    naomijoe New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2012
    Member:
    #92815
    Messages:
    1
    Gender:
    Male
    Texas
    Vehicle:
    07 Prerunner SR5
    remote start security system
    I had a remote start installed on my Tacoma when I purchased it 8 months ago. A few weeks ago my check engine light started coming on and the reverse to drive hesitation. I took it to the dealership and they want $2500 to replace complete wiring harness. Here's my question. If you do the non-dealership fix, how long does it take for the computer to "trash" the code? I can't get my truck inspected until the P0705 code no longer shows on the computer memory.
     
  8. Dec 10, 2012 at 2:46 PM
    #28
    Coolerman

    Coolerman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2011
    Member:
    #67571
    Messages:
    493
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dan
    Rochester, NY
    Vehicle:
    05 4x4 SR5 Access Cab
    OEM TRD OR wheels, Extang Solid Fold Tonneau cover, Pop and Lock PL8521, Overhead Temp/Compass, OEM led tail lights, Sport bucket seats, Wet Okole seat covers, rcbs204 lighted 4x4 switch, Weathertech in channel window vents, Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags, Weathertech digifit floor mats, Scanguage II, Hayden 678 Trans cooler, Western Suburbanite plow
    When I did mine the code went away as soon as i started the vehicle up without water crossing the wires. I could actually reach up under the driver side kick panel and feel water coming in following the wires down into the junction blocks.
     
  9. May 21, 2013 at 5:30 AM
    #29
    Databox

    Databox Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2012
    Member:
    #87741
    Messages:
    122
    Gender:
    Male
    Fernandina Beach, FL
    Vehicle:
    2007 TRD Sport SR5
    Rims and Tires
  10. Jun 6, 2013 at 7:09 AM
    #30
    Fortech

    Fortech Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2008
    Member:
    #5636
    Messages:
    878
    Gender:
    Male
    CANADA
    Vehicle:
    2005 Toyota Tacoma TRD OR
    Bilstein 5100's, rear TSB, Firestone bags
    Well, where do I start?

    I have the stiff shifter at times, also the hesitation when shifted into "D". I don't get this hesitation 100% of the time, but I get it maybe 40% of the time and its really driving me nuts. Along with the "D" hesitation, I have also noticed that my "P" indicator doesn't always illuminate when in park. Sometimes the "P" will illuminate faintly, flicker a little, and then either totally illuminate to full brightness or fade away to nothing.

    The weird thing is I exhibit all these problems as the above posters, but I have no check engine light illuminated?? I had the truck on a diagnostic tool last night also and no current or stored codes in the ECU memory.

    I suspect the neutral position switch is the culprit in my case, and plan to change that shortly. In the meantime however, I will pull my kickpanel and clean everything with contact cleaner and maybe add a little dielectric grease.

    I would appreciate if the original posters in this topic would post a little update on how their repair has lasted - whether it be the expensive Toyota harness replacement or the DIY contact cleaner method. I would really appreciate an update from those involved if possible, even just a few words.

    Thanks...
     
  11. Jun 7, 2013 at 6:46 AM
    #31
    maxa

    maxa Member

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2010
    Member:
    #40453
    Messages:
    14
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Max
    Seattle
    Vehicle:
    08 DoubleCab 4WD
    Sounds like you are having a different issue but since you asked for an update I'll post mine. Good look with fixing yours.

    In my case it was definitely a water issue from two sources:
    First one from going through high water, fixed by sealing the harness where it enters the cabin.
    Second from a crappy installation of a replacement windshield. They didn't seal it all the way on the left side and so rain water got in and dripped down onto those connectors again. I went back there and they properly sealed it and I haven't seen any problems since.
     
  12. Jun 7, 2013 at 6:47 AM
    #32
    bobo

    bobo Member

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2010
    Member:
    #40955
    Messages:
    7
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2005 double cab
    Regarding Fortech's question. I had the issue three years ago and sealed the cable and cleaned the contacts and so far the repair has lasted with no issues. I did not have the error code for several months while I had the hesitation symptom but I finally got it. I do not know what sets the error code but the symptoms you describe seem related to the problem of the computer not getting the correct inputs to put the transmission in the proper mode. Good luck.
     
  13. Jun 8, 2013 at 3:38 PM
    #33
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2010
    Member:
    #28588
    Messages:
    3,061
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joe
    Central Coast, CA
    Vehicle:
    06 4x4 Off Road Access Cab v6 6spd
    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    The code is set when the ECU gets two conflicting signals from the transmission switch at the same time. It would certainly be possible for a failure to occur that simply caused a lack of a signal, or the wrong signal, but not two at the same time. I could see how that may not set a code.
     
  14. Jun 8, 2013 at 6:27 PM
    #34
    Coolerman

    Coolerman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2011
    Member:
    #67571
    Messages:
    493
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dan
    Rochester, NY
    Vehicle:
    05 4x4 SR5 Access Cab
    OEM TRD OR wheels, Extang Solid Fold Tonneau cover, Pop and Lock PL8521, Overhead Temp/Compass, OEM led tail lights, Sport bucket seats, Wet Okole seat covers, rcbs204 lighted 4x4 switch, Weathertech in channel window vents, Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags, Weathertech digifit floor mats, Scanguage II, Hayden 678 Trans cooler, Western Suburbanite plow
    Mine is still going strong and the problem has not returned since I sealed up the entry into the cab and dried off the wires/cleaned them. When my truck exhibited the problem I could reach up into the wires and feel moisture coming through the firewall.

    Another thing that I think contributed to mine getting water in on the wires was a missing plug in the driver side wheel well. I think water spray was coming up through that hole and potentially getting the wires wet etc.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2013
  15. Jan 7, 2014 at 9:41 PM
    #35
    b0ules

    b0ules Fresh frame!

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2008
    Member:
    #11573
    Messages:
    231
    Gender:
    Male
    Ottawa, Canada
    Vehicle:
    Speedway Blue 06 TRD Off-Road
    Leer 100XL Topper OME 885X/Nitrocharger Sport Front Dakar Leafs/Nitrocharger Sport Rear
    I've noticed my shifter being pretty damn stiff to move into gear on the past few cold morning starts. Temps ranging from -25C up to a temperate -10C. After driving a little bit, the shifter moves as normal, so the transmission heating up must be freeing something else up.

    When I started the truck tonight to leave work (-16C indicated), I only gave it about 30 seconds before throwing it into gear and heading across our skating rink...er...parking lot to a coworker's car to grab something. I did notice intermittent illumination of the shifter indicator in the instrument cluster. On the way across the rink, I was also fiddling with my rear diff lock (w/override) to kill my ABS and about the time I flicked the switch, I heard my UltraGauge warn of a pending code. I think the timing was just coincidence with the diff lock switch though.

    Anyhow, the pending code was, surprise surprise, a P0705.

    I cleared the code while the truck was idling in park (maybe it sat there running for 2 minutes?), shifted to drive without any resistance at all as well as no obvious issues with the shifter indicator, and didn't throw a code for the rest of my 80km drive home which included a gas stop and several runs through the shift pattern. I do downshift the AT, so there was plenty of opportunity to get two signals or whatever the situation is.

    In my case, hopefully it's just the cold messing with the sensor. I've lubed the linkage every time I'm under there, so I don't think it's that.

    It's a cold and windy night out there tonight, so we'll see how it behaves in the morning.
     
  16. Jan 9, 2014 at 6:27 PM
    #36
    b0ules

    b0ules Fresh frame!

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2008
    Member:
    #11573
    Messages:
    231
    Gender:
    Male
    Ottawa, Canada
    Vehicle:
    Speedway Blue 06 TRD Off-Road
    Leer 100XL Topper OME 885X/Nitrocharger Sport Front Dakar Leafs/Nitrocharger Sport Rear
    Only seeing a slight misbehaviour at very low temperatures, and a slight stiffness now. As soon as the tranny is warmed up though, we're 100% good.

    No more codes either. :thumbsup:
     
  17. Sep 10, 2014 at 3:43 PM
    #37
    TacoSmitty

    TacoSmitty Member

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2011
    Member:
    #52094
    Messages:
    14
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mark
    Smithton, PA
    Vehicle:
    05 SR5 Tacoma
    Stock
    My 05 just came on with the 705 MIL. Im gonna follow the posts here and post my results.
     
  18. Sep 11, 2014 at 5:55 AM
    #38
    Coolerman

    Coolerman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2011
    Member:
    #67571
    Messages:
    493
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dan
    Rochester, NY
    Vehicle:
    05 4x4 SR5 Access Cab
    OEM TRD OR wheels, Extang Solid Fold Tonneau cover, Pop and Lock PL8521, Overhead Temp/Compass, OEM led tail lights, Sport bucket seats, Wet Okole seat covers, rcbs204 lighted 4x4 switch, Weathertech in channel window vents, Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags, Weathertech digifit floor mats, Scanguage II, Hayden 678 Trans cooler, Western Suburbanite plow
    I should follow up on mine. My shifter became sticky again this past year. The dealer did find the park neutral switch as the problem. I think the bill was in the $500 range for parts and labor to have them replace the park neutral switch and I have not had the problem since.
     
  19. Sep 11, 2014 at 5:45 PM
    #39
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2012
    Member:
    #90305
    Messages:
    2,251
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Canadain bumber technician
    Great white North 51.0333° N, 93.8333° W
    Vehicle:
    2010.TRD.SportDCLB4x4Limited leather package
    TRD Sport Rally -5 speed automatic Limited ,Factory heated leather seats ,chrome package,Super white with front windows tinted to 35 % Dick Cepek DC-2 wheels Summer tires - Good year silent armor P265/65R17 Winter tires - Good year P265/65R17 Ultra Ice studded Illuminated 4x4 switch TRD 3rd brake light cover ($20) TRD seat belt shoulder protectors (5). ($50) TRD ...B pillar emblems ($20) TRD rear slider sticker with devil horns ( $6) TRD summer floor matts ($60) TRD steering wheel emblem ($20) TRD floor pedals .($95) TRD shorty antenna ($14) TRD front Windshield emblems ($17) TRD head pillows .($60) TRD head rest protectors TRD door scuff protection $20 TRD floor matt emblems ($40) TRD tow plug emblem . ($40) TRD cigarette lighter with LED.($35) TRD tissue dispenser ($12) TRD front bezel emblems ($9) TRD door emblems ($6) TRD lanyards($9) TRD lisence plates with TRD bolts($50) TRD fender emblems TRD center caps Part Number:PT904-35070-CC ($80) TRD cd
    STICKY SHIFTER / SHIFTER IS HARD TO MOVE
    Most of us would disconnect the shifter cable from the transmission lever and then verify the cable is free by hopping in the truck and moving the shifter from park to low . We should feel nothing because the shifter cable is no longer connected to the transmission . If the shifter is still tight to move , we know that the issue resides in the cable or the plastic shifter cover . A quick lube job is going to fix that up .

    Next , with the shifter cable removed from the transmission lever , try and manually move that transmission lever by hand . You should feel click , click , click and it should be fairly easy to move with your hands . If you cant move it by hand , remove the PRNDL switch shown on page 16 at this link , it shows the switch in question . Spray the heck out of it . Some guys actually have to replace the PRNDL switch becuase of corrosion .The PRNDL switch gets very tight when it corrodes http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/pdf/A750E.pdf

    When the switch is removed , you can spray the seal on the transmission that sits behind the switch to see if there are additional problems with the lever shaft since the lever shaft is also known to corrode .
    , then take a small screwdriver and pry the lever seal away from the shifter selector shaft enough to blast some lubricant between the seal until you get the lever to move by hand .Might have to work it back and forth a little but its going to free up . You should have the wheels blocked when you do this .Both of these issues are very common

    Next , place the transmission gear shifter in park and " REMOVE THE KEY "
    Throw the key on the drivers seat until your done .
    Go to rear of truck and manually push it by hand to verify the truck is actually in park . Go back under the truck and check to see if the shifter cable lines up perfectly with the hole in the transmission lever . If it doesnt line up , adjust the shifter cable until it fits perfectly into the transmission lever . The adjustment is under the shift counsole .
    Once the cable is aligned with the transmission shift lever , verify the truck will only start in park and nuetral .
     
  20. Sep 13, 2014 at 7:21 AM
    #40
    outdoorgb

    outdoorgb (.)(.)

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2014
    Member:
    #135065
    Messages:
    245
    Gender:
    Male
    Clackamas OR
    Vehicle:
    2014 DCSB TRD Sport Silver Sky...
    Diff Breather, D-Rings, Decal removal, Blacked front badge, bed matt, Leer canopy on order
    I'm in...
    2014 TRD Sport with 1500 miles.
    Ultragauge threw the P0705 pending code last night.

    I'll read up and probably do a clear today and see what happens.
     
To Top