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peer edit my lights wiring?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by hamNswiss on rye, Jan 7, 2011.

  1. Jan 7, 2011 at 3:14 PM
    #1
    hamNswiss on rye

    hamNswiss on rye [OP] ¡Yo Quiero Taco World!

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    OME 885's and billies all around, allpro apex front bumper, Nfab tire carrier, black magic rallye 1000 driving lights, custom back to the future light rack, KC LED Daylighters, PIAA 510 fogs, bed lights, satoshi, 285/70/17 Duratracs
    so this is my first mod on the new truck (one of my first in general), and i want to do it right. im pretty sure i have the wiring figured out, but i want to double check before i start hooking it up. im wiring up two hella black magic rallye 1000's (55v each) and have decided to use an auxiliary block for ease in future wiring. does everything look in check? would you guys reccomend an in line fuse to the aux. block?

    thanks

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Jan 7, 2011 at 3:16 PM
    #2
    Chachie

    Chachie Well-Known Member

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    inly thing i see wrong is that the ground on your switch should be a constant 12v.
     
  3. Jan 7, 2011 at 3:26 PM
    #3
    hamNswiss on rye

    hamNswiss on rye [OP] ¡Yo Quiero Taco World!

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    so you're saying have a wire running from the relay and one directly to the fuse block with a 1A fuse?
     
  4. Jan 7, 2011 at 3:38 PM
    #4
    Chachie

    Chachie Well-Known Member

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    Locker mod, Anytime fog mod, always 400w mod.
    Heres how i have all my relays wired. My lights and compressor all have a ground that runs straight from the unit to a ground. The power lead then runs to the power out on the relay. Power in runs to the pos on the battery, with a fuse. the "switching"ground on the relay runs to a ground, then the signal wire runs to your switch. Then on the other side of your switch you want a constant 12v. so that way when you kit the switch it sends power to the switch in the relay telling it to turn on.
     
  5. Jan 7, 2011 at 4:07 PM
    #5
    hamNswiss on rye

    hamNswiss on rye [OP] ¡Yo Quiero Taco World!

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    OME 885's and billies all around, allpro apex front bumper, Nfab tire carrier, black magic rallye 1000 driving lights, custom back to the future light rack, KC LED Daylighters, PIAA 510 fogs, bed lights, satoshi, 285/70/17 Duratracs
    i see, how are you wiring your constant 12v? directly to the battery? and do you have a 1A fuse on it?
     
  6. Jan 7, 2011 at 4:08 PM
    #6
    Chachie

    Chachie Well-Known Member

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    no i spilced into a wire at the fuse panel. And no fuse.
     
  7. Jan 7, 2011 at 10:41 PM
    #7
    hamNswiss on rye

    hamNswiss on rye [OP] ¡Yo Quiero Taco World!

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    alright, im not sure if im comfortable cutting and splicing random wires in my fuse panel, im new at this :). would something like this work?

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Jan 7, 2011 at 10:51 PM
    #8
    colinb17

    colinb17 If at first you don't succeed, don't try skydiving

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    ^^^that looks good. and if your switch has a light in it for when it's on, you'll need to ground the third terminal on it
     
  9. Jan 7, 2011 at 10:53 PM
    #9
    hamNswiss on rye

    hamNswiss on rye [OP] ¡Yo Quiero Taco World!

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    awesome man, thanks for the help +1
     
  10. Jan 7, 2011 at 10:58 PM
    #10
    colinb17

    colinb17 If at first you don't succeed, don't try skydiving

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    no worries. looks like you pretty much figured it out yourself.

    and a little tip: if the lights you got came with a switch, i would considder buying a different switch. the ones that they come with tend to blow out fairly quickly. most of the time the little light stops working (which has resulted in my battery dying before), and sometimes the whole switch just stops. so an aftermarket switch for a few bucks will probably last longer, and you get to pick the style, color, etc you want
     
  11. Jan 7, 2011 at 10:59 PM
    #11
    Trap

    Trap Well-Known Member

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    The easier way is don't ground the relay. It's the way the truck is wired now.

    Hot from the fuse to the relay coil and the relay contact. other relay contact to the lights then to ground.

    The other relay coil wire to the switch then to ground.

    Every circuit in the truck is wired like that already. It has advantages in a short circuit situation.
     
  12. Jan 7, 2011 at 11:05 PM
    #12
    hamNswiss on rye

    hamNswiss on rye [OP] ¡Yo Quiero Taco World!

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    so you'd recommend doing as in the picture above, just leave the ground wire on the relay out?
     
  13. Jan 7, 2011 at 11:05 PM
    #13
    colinb17

    colinb17 If at first you don't succeed, don't try skydiving

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    but then he will not be able to have an illuminated switch (without complicating things with another circuit). of course if that's not an issue for him, then this way uses 2 fewer wires, so it may be a little easier
     
  14. Jan 7, 2011 at 11:09 PM
    #14
    colinb17

    colinb17 If at first you don't succeed, don't try skydiving

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    no, he's saying run the power from the fuse to where it goes not, but also directly to wherre the switch currently goes. keep the lighs as is, but where you just have the ground coming off of the relay, but the switch in there. and then to ground.

    i believe that's what he's saying. let me see if i can edit your drawing real quick
     
  15. Jan 7, 2011 at 11:12 PM
    #15
    Trap

    Trap Well-Known Member

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    You can grab the wires for the switch bulb off the fog light switch.

    I didn't realize it was a illuminated switch.

    Indicator switch or on switch? If the switch is just a dash light grab power for it from the green and green with white stripe off a existing switch. That is the power for the switch bulbs.

    IS it a three terminal switch or four?

    The way it's shown on the drawing, his drawing is in series with the bulb and it will never work.

    It only shows two wires going to the switch on his drawing.
     
  16. Jan 7, 2011 at 11:22 PM
    #16
    Trap

    Trap Well-Known Member

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    The way you are doing it is wrong anyway. You want to power the relay off of IGN 1 and not from the new fuse block. That way it works with the key. No key, no lights, no dead battery in the morning..

    Look at Noneck180's build thread for my print on how he wired it up.
     
  17. Jan 7, 2011 at 11:24 PM
    #17
    colinb17

    colinb17 If at first you don't succeed, don't try skydiving

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    alrighty, so if you have a 3 prong switch with a built in light, your original drawing will work, i just drew in the ground from the third prong on the switch. this is how all of my lights are set up and it works great.
    [​IMG]


    in this next drawing, as far as i can tell, this is what Trap is telling you to do. it will also work, but you can use a 2 prong, non-illuminated switch, or you can use a lit one (3 prong), and just not use the prong made to work the light
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Jan 7, 2011 at 11:27 PM
    #18
    colinb17

    colinb17 If at first you don't succeed, don't try skydiving

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    this is just prefference of course, but i like to run all of my lights through the aux. fuse box because i'll operate them for short periods when the key is not in. but that's why i use the switches that light up when the lights are turned on, that way i don't forget. whichever way you like though, OP. jsut pick the one you think will be most usefull for your needs
     
  19. Jan 7, 2011 at 11:34 PM
    #19
    Trap

    Trap Well-Known Member

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    I can't find that thread. Chances are he got banned and that post got killed at the same time. I have the print though cause I made it.

    Basically he had extra driving lights that where tied in with the high beams and fog lights? I can remember now.
     

    Attached Files:

  20. Jan 7, 2011 at 11:36 PM
    #20
    hamNswiss on rye

    hamNswiss on rye [OP] ¡Yo Quiero Taco World!

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    OME 885's and billies all around, allpro apex front bumper, Nfab tire carrier, black magic rallye 1000 driving lights, custom back to the future light rack, KC LED Daylighters, PIAA 510 fogs, bed lights, satoshi, 285/70/17 Duratracs
    im not worried about forgetting the lights, i was pretty good about that on my old truck. i think im going to try and go with the first drawing you posted, colin. i dont have a switch yet, though. if i end up getting a non-illuminated one, could i still run your first drawing? just get rid of the ground wire on the switch?
     
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