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Pelfreybilt Off-Road

Discussion in 'Pelfreybilt Off-Road' started by Socalduckslayer, Apr 16, 2012.

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  1. Aug 13, 2015 at 8:10 AM
    #4141
    VolcomTacoma

    VolcomTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Front- Camburg 4x4 Long Travel 2.5" King Coilovers 2.5" King Triple Bypasses Wheelers Superbumps Rear- DMZ SUA 16" 3.0 King Triple Bypasses 3" 2.0 Fox bumps Wheels and Tires- 295/75/16 Toyo ATII XTREME SCS SR8 Dark Matte Bronze 16" Lighting- (2) 30" Combo light bars (4) Iggycorp diffused pods Tepui Ayer TRD Supercharger URD Mark III 3" Exhaust URD 4x4 Y Pipe URD CAI URD 2.85 Stealth Pulley Hurst Core Shifter with Hurst T URD Stage 3 clutch URD Lightweight flywheel URD Throw out bearing upgrade AEM Wideband AFR Gauge Speedhut Boost Gauge Craven Speed Flex Pod mount Weathertech Floor Liners BAMF Sliders Ultragauge sPod SE ARB CKMTA12 Hella Supertone horns Relentless Tailgate Reinforcement
    Hahaha I couldnt find it anywhere except on some Jeep Forum lol.
     
    deadhed61 likes this.
  2. Aug 14, 2015 at 10:38 AM
    #4142
    pruchai

    pruchai KAMA3

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    Not enough...
    Question on the sliders here. Bolt-on ones bolt directly to the frame? Does the frame require any modification?
     
  3. Aug 14, 2015 at 3:00 PM
    #4143
    Pelfreybilt

    Pelfreybilt Pelfreybilt Off-Road, Inc.

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    Pelfreybilt
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    ~ Pelfreybilt aluminum 4runner front bumper and Rocksliders coated by Line-X San Diego ~ Baja Designs- LED Lighting Grill with LED lightbar & 40" roof rack lightbar ~ Rigid Industries rock lights ~ Front Runner Outfitters roof rack, fridge slide & bottle opener ~ CVT Rooftop Tent & Awning ~ Goose Gear storage drawers ~ Katzkin Leather seat covers ~ Switch-Pro control kit ~ Factor 55 Flatlink ~ WARN VR8000-S Winch ~ Fuel Offroad Trophy Wheels ~ Goodyear Kevlar Tires ~ ICON Vehicle Dynamics Stage 5 kit. Appx 2.5" lift ~ ARB lockers, skid plates & 50qt Fridge ~ JL Audio custom stereo system
    Yes it bolts directly to the frame and ZERO drilling required! No mods required!
     
  4. Aug 14, 2015 at 4:24 PM
    #4144
    NorthwestCruiser

    NorthwestCruiser Well-Known Member

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    Custom 3 link, 40's etc..
    Can't wait for my skids to come tomorrow :woot:
     
  5. Aug 15, 2015 at 12:08 PM
    #4145
    Denk

    Denk Well-Known Member

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    The instructions are a bit unclear when referring to the sway bar. Will this be reinstalled on the gusseted backing plates? Or must it be left off completely?
     
  6. Aug 15, 2015 at 12:13 PM
    #4146
    VolcomTacoma

    VolcomTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Front- Camburg 4x4 Long Travel 2.5" King Coilovers 2.5" King Triple Bypasses Wheelers Superbumps Rear- DMZ SUA 16" 3.0 King Triple Bypasses 3" 2.0 Fox bumps Wheels and Tires- 295/75/16 Toyo ATII XTREME SCS SR8 Dark Matte Bronze 16" Lighting- (2) 30" Combo light bars (4) Iggycorp diffused pods Tepui Ayer TRD Supercharger URD Mark III 3" Exhaust URD 4x4 Y Pipe URD CAI URD 2.85 Stealth Pulley Hurst Core Shifter with Hurst T URD Stage 3 clutch URD Lightweight flywheel URD Throw out bearing upgrade AEM Wideband AFR Gauge Speedhut Boost Gauge Craven Speed Flex Pod mount Weathertech Floor Liners BAMF Sliders Ultragauge sPod SE ARB CKMTA12 Hella Supertone horns Relentless Tailgate Reinforcement
    Pretty sure you reinstall it after you install the backing plates. IIRC there are long bolt holes for the sway bar brackets on the gusseting plates.
     
  7. Aug 15, 2015 at 12:34 PM
    #4147
    Denk

    Denk Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, that's what I thought. Not that it would deter me at all from continuing the install. this thing to too bad ass to resell.
     
  8. Aug 15, 2015 at 12:39 PM
    #4148
    VolcomTacoma

    VolcomTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Front- Camburg 4x4 Long Travel 2.5" King Coilovers 2.5" King Triple Bypasses Wheelers Superbumps Rear- DMZ SUA 16" 3.0 King Triple Bypasses 3" 2.0 Fox bumps Wheels and Tires- 295/75/16 Toyo ATII XTREME SCS SR8 Dark Matte Bronze 16" Lighting- (2) 30" Combo light bars (4) Iggycorp diffused pods Tepui Ayer TRD Supercharger URD Mark III 3" Exhaust URD 4x4 Y Pipe URD CAI URD 2.85 Stealth Pulley Hurst Core Shifter with Hurst T URD Stage 3 clutch URD Lightweight flywheel URD Throw out bearing upgrade AEM Wideband AFR Gauge Speedhut Boost Gauge Craven Speed Flex Pod mount Weathertech Floor Liners BAMF Sliders Ultragauge sPod SE ARB CKMTA12 Hella Supertone horns Relentless Tailgate Reinforcement
    Or, just get rid of your sway bar and enjoy :)
     
  9. Aug 15, 2015 at 2:50 PM
    #4149
    NorthwestCruiser

    NorthwestCruiser Well-Known Member

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    image.jpg

    And adding to the collection, of course has to be the biggest sticker and on top of the rest ;) thanks again Satin for the skids!
    image.jpg
     
    Pelfreybilt likes this.
  10. Aug 16, 2015 at 7:49 AM
    #4150
    RearViewMirror

    RearViewMirror Saw things so much clearer once you... were in my

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    No modification needed to install. There is a small spacer for the drivers side to move the brake / fuel line away from the frame just a little. The hardest part was 1: I did it by myself 2: Running your hand up into the boxed portion of the frame to get the bolts started. Other than that I had them installed in about a hour. The passenger side is much easier since you don't have to deal with any lines to get in the way.

    The backing plate is there for reinforcement only. Just loosen the sway bar on the bottom and drop it just enough to slide the reinforcement bracket in place. Replace the sway bar using the same nuts and tighten them down. Then use the supplied bolts to go through the bumper into the reinforcement plate and you're done.
     
  11. Aug 16, 2015 at 8:37 AM
    #4151
    Denk

    Denk Well-Known Member

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    Front bumper install complete. Went well, and looks amazing (sry, no pix yet). Only one hiccup with clearancing for the rigid fogs. According to the instructions, if needed, you can cut and bend-up the metal channel that runs under the headlight housing to create the necessary space. However, on my 2013 trd, the bracket for the clip that holds that little trim piece under the headlight housing is directly above where the fog lights sit. I was unable to cut or bend the metal without screwing up the bracket geometry. Has anyone else had this issue and what did you do? Because of this, I could not get the bumper-to-fender gap as close as I would like; ended up at about 3/4". I do not think I'll be able to get the lights aimed since the metal channel is resting right on the housings. lateral alignment ended up, maybe 1/2", proud on the passenger side.
     
  12. Aug 16, 2015 at 8:46 AM
    #4152
    RearViewMirror

    RearViewMirror Saw things so much clearer once you... were in my

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    Did you remove the black plastic clip / bumper on the outside of each fender? That was the problem I ran into. On the 12+ you do not need to cut the channel as the D2's will clear without cutting. Once I removed the bumpers on the outside of each fender it lined up perfectly with space for the Rigid cubes.

    IMG_0382_zpsedctg0px_922ff456700d5805b0a730a3103f3d0cf822fb2a.jpg

    IMG_0356_zpsmoctktlv_70d3ee0af0c4a5c953c4d023d04579ada5983f7a.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2015
  13. Aug 16, 2015 at 9:08 AM
    #4153
    Denk

    Denk Well-Known Member

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    First off, that white PC looks freakin' awesome.

    Yep, got those things off. And now that I think about it, we got the mounting studs pretty much bottomed out in the slots on the bumper. Might be able to weasel out another 1/8" but fogs are def in the way.

    Did you reuse the stock wiring for the fogs? How did you deal with the plug difference? I'm leaning towards clipping off the stock plug and pig-tailing the plug from the rigid harness.
     
  14. Aug 16, 2015 at 9:11 AM
    #4154
    Allstar780

    Allstar780 Well-Known Member

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    I just bent the fog light brackets down about 1/4 inch because I found that my D2s were contacting that piece under the headlight
     
  15. Aug 16, 2015 at 9:12 AM
    #4155
    TimberLandTaco

    TimberLandTaco Well-Known Member

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    Light, Bumpers, and lots of switches.
    My rigid cubes were touching just a small bit and I didn't know it. Within a few months it had rubbed a sore across the top of the fins a eighth of a inch deep. Just something to watch out for
     
  16. Aug 16, 2015 at 9:13 AM
    #4156
    Denk

    Denk Well-Known Member

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    I thought about doing that too, but wouldn't you still run into the same prob when trying to realign the cubes in the bumper cutouts?
     
  17. Aug 16, 2015 at 9:16 AM
    #4157
    Denk

    Denk Well-Known Member

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    I'm pretty sure I have already scraped off a lot of the PC on the tops from trying to work them back-n-forth.
     
  18. Aug 16, 2015 at 9:17 AM
    #4158
    Allstar780

    Allstar780 Well-Known Member

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    They actually seem to line up fine, but I was able to get about 1/8 inch or so of clearance, so they aren't pressed up against the metal

    I think alternatively you could position the bracket for the light under the bracket that's attached to the bumper, if it will clear.
     
  19. Aug 16, 2015 at 9:26 AM
    #4159
    Denk

    Denk Well-Known Member

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    hmm, I have to try messin with the bracket some more. I really don't want to have to undo all the bumper bolts, but may have to anyway.

    The funny thing, is now it's super easy to get the grill off for some more room to work. When putting everything back together, I completely forgot that all the clips that secure the lower portion all got thrown out with the stock bumper.
     
  20. Aug 16, 2015 at 9:31 AM
    #4160
    Detective_Dan

    Detective_Dan "Place original and witty user title here"

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    Jason
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    Pelfreybilt Front Plate Bumper, Brute Force Fab High Clearance Rear Bumper, Pelfreybilt Sliders, OME 886/Dakars, SCS F5's, 33" Ko2's, Cobra 75WXST/3' Firestik, oil catch can, aero turbine 2525, rear differential breather extension, bedmat, weathertech digital fit front/rear, BHLM, custom shiftknob (made by me),
    I'll just add to the itch that I know somebody on here has. If you're on the fence about a bumper, go for it!

    image.jpg image.jpg
     
    303tacoma likes this.
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