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Picked up an old air compressor and need help

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by Rosscopeeko, Jan 10, 2015.

  1. Jan 10, 2015 at 12:11 PM
    #1
    Rosscopeeko

    Rosscopeeko [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I acquired an old compressor from a coworker for free the other day. I don't know much about it other than what the tank model plate says. It says it's a model c102.40-a and for parts contact simpson sears. The tank is rated for 200psi and is a 1956. It was run with no air filter for who knows how long in a shop. The motor says 3/4hp and is old. It spools up and the pump spins fine. I have a cracked manifold that comes off the tank where the relief valve, pressure guage, check valve all join together off the tank. I don't know the correct term for that part, but I need to order it. The drain petcock in the bottom of the tank is seized too. There is a copper line that is disconnected that runs from the tank to the check valve I believe. I think I need to hook this up, but my coworker said he never did and he ran it. He did mention it would kick his breaker out in his shop. This disconnected line might be the culprit. It is heavy. I'm hoping to use it to run some air tools. My coworker said it built pressure fine. I'll use a ball peen hammer on the tank and look for soft spots. Anyone know what this compressor is, and what it might put out cfm wise?

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  2. Jan 10, 2015 at 12:19 PM
    #2
    KenLyns

    KenLyns 8.75" Third Member

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    Simpson-Sears = Sears Canada prior to 1984
     
  3. Jan 10, 2015 at 12:20 PM
    #3
    eazyrider711

    eazyrider711 Well-Known Member

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    No help here, but that thing is AWESOME!!! Good luck, and I hope you get it cleaned up and running.
     
  4. Jan 10, 2015 at 12:24 PM
    #4
    SilverJack

    SilverJack CzechMate

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    I can't find any reference to the compressor, but the Simpson Sears name was last used in 1978, after which it became Sears Canada. This means the tank is at least 37 years old.
    Any pressure vessel that age is probably long overdue for testing or retirement. I would at the very least see if you can find a new tank.
     
  5. Jan 10, 2015 at 2:06 PM
    #5
    rleete

    rleete Grumpy old man - get off my lawn

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    Devilbiss made compressors for sears at least until the late 1980's.

    Finding parts is going to be impossible unless you cannibalize another old unit. Maybe you can find an old machinist willing to make a new manifold, if you're lucky.
     
  6. Jan 10, 2015 at 2:53 PM
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    KenLyns

    KenLyns 8.75" Third Member

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  7. Jan 10, 2015 at 3:30 PM
    #7
    Rosscopeeko

    Rosscopeeko [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah this thing is sweet. I plan on doing a home hydrostatic test once it warms up outside. Thanks for the help. I'm hoping the rings and cylinder are in good shape. Apparently the compressors back in the day were way better built. Hope it holds true with this one.
     
  8. Jan 11, 2015 at 1:27 AM
    #8
    Texoma

    Texoma IG: cwehlin

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    Some things come to mind when you say the breaker trips. When the compressor starts from empty, there is no pressure in the tank or the compressor itself. Once the tank is up to pressure, the solenoid in the control box will shut the compressor off and the unloader will open. The unloader is important. If the compressor doesn't unload, then the next start up the compressor will have the same pressure as the tank and will use too much power to try and operate and will over amp and trip the breaker. There are a few culprits to this. First is the check valve being worn and backflowing from the tank to the compressor. You will hear the unloader constantly hissing until the compressor starts back up, then trip. Just replace the entire check valve, usually about $12. Second is the unloader line is blocked. This is a smaller line coming off of the middle of the check valve that goes in to the control box. Just remove it from the control box and check valve, and blow through it to see if it's blocked. If it is, either clean it out, or make a new one. The last, and more expensive thing is the control box. If it is malfunctioning and not unloading the compressor, then either tinker with it and see if you can make it work, or just get a new one. They are pretty much universal, some have more options than others. Personally, I don't think it's the control box. I think it is one of the first two, or a combination of the first two. And very importantly, get a guard for those moving parts. You dont need it starting up on someone who is too close to it and get a body part lacerated. Good luck with this, and if you need any more help diagnosing it, let me know.
     
  9. Jan 11, 2015 at 1:52 AM
    #9
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    Are you even sure that this is the original compressor to the system? That compressor looks like a scavenged refrigeration compressor.

    Whatever it is, it is not going to be a big CFM producer, It will run an impact just fine when the tank gets up to pressure, or air up tires, but I don't see it running any sanders or sandblasters before it won't be able to keep up.

    Have you timed it to see how long it takes from 0 pressure to cut off pressure?
     
  10. Jan 11, 2015 at 8:47 AM
    #10
    Rosscopeeko

    Rosscopeeko [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No I haven't run it yet for more than 5 seconds. I'm on dad duty most of the time looking after my daughter while the wife is at work, so it's been hard. I have to install the belt and I'll fire it up and time it. It has a leaky manifold, it's cracked. My friend who's a machinist, is going to make me a new one. I'm going to hook up the one way check valve line too.

    I'm pretty sure it's the original motor and compressor head. It's not a refridgeration compressor. Thanks for the help guys. I'll report back once I get it up and running. I was hoping it woud do more than 8cfm at 90psi.
     
  11. Jan 11, 2015 at 11:27 AM
    #11
    Rosscopeeko

    Rosscopeeko [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I just ran the compressor. I opened up the drain petcock on the bottom of the tank and approximately 400ml of water came out, and also 400ml of rusty oil. I'm not sure if oil is getting from the pump to the tank, or if the previous owner dumped some oil in the tank. With a cracked manifold it took 12 minutes to get to 90psi. Terribly slow in my opinion. When I have my hand next to the discharge it feels as though it's pushing as much air as my makita mac2400. This thing might need a pump service- valve or reed replacement. I've never done this before. I might have to make new gaskets when I dismantle the pump, because I doubt I'll be able to buy them with it being this old.
     
  12. Jan 11, 2015 at 11:28 AM
    #12
    Rosscopeeko

    Rosscopeeko [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I forgot to mention, the tank is 4ft long x 16" diameter. Not sure how many gallons it is.
     
  13. Jan 11, 2015 at 11:39 AM
    #13
    File IFR

    File IFR "... Intercepting The Localizer"

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    I think you have a 40 gallon tank.
     
  14. Jan 11, 2015 at 12:18 PM
    #14
    Rosscopeeko

    Rosscopeeko [OP] Well-Known Member

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    After a little more reading I've found out this pump is significantly worn. The pump rings are allow oil to pass on to the compression stroke, and into the tank. I'll try and find parts.
     
  15. Jan 11, 2015 at 12:47 PM
    #15
    File IFR

    File IFR "... Intercepting The Localizer"

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    It's worn mostly because it's been run without a filter. Do get a filter for it.
     
  16. Jan 11, 2015 at 1:34 PM
    #16
    coffeesnob

    coffeesnob Well-Known Member

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    ebay may be a resource
     
  17. Jan 11, 2015 at 7:01 PM
    #17
    Rosscopeeko

    Rosscopeeko [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Filter for sure. I had my Machinist buddy look at it and he says it's worth fixing up. I'm gong to pull the head and check the valves first. My friend is machining a new manifold for me. The pump is a 2 cylinder. Looking forward to fixing it up. Thx for the help
     
  18. Jan 11, 2015 at 7:10 PM
    #18
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    It may be 2 cylinders, but it is still a single stage pump. Even with a valve and ring tune up, you will still have a slow pressure building pump. I hope your intention was not to think you can run high demand air tools. It will still may be great rig for the everyday tire air ups or impact gun use.

    I would like to see that you do the hydro test before you start dropping a bunch of money into it. If the tank is bad, it will get spendy. In addition inspect/test/replace the pressure relif valve. They are pretty cheap, so just replace it is a good practice.

    I love seeing old stuff being return to duty, but just make sure it is done safely. I can picture it now, new paint job to match your shop and wireing and you will have a winner.
     
  19. Jan 12, 2015 at 1:32 PM
    #19
    Shadetree

    Shadetree Well-Known Member

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    My 60 gallon measures 16" x 48", so you probably have a 48 gallon tank. Does your pump have a manufacturer name or model number? Here is a free Campbell Hausfeld single stage compressor troubleshooting guide that might be helpful:

    http://www.chpower.com/images/pdfs/manual01/603300_0801.pdf
     
  20. Jan 14, 2015 at 7:50 PM
    #20
    Rosscopeeko

    Rosscopeeko [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I found out on another forum that the pump is a Brunner a330. A low displacement 2.5 cfm. I had a new manifold built and tested it out. It took 17 minutes to reach 125psi. There was a slight leak from the relief valve. It runs quiet and smooth. I figure it's pumping out what it's designed to, so I'm not going to tear it down.
     

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