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Please check my diagram

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by aro, Oct 27, 2019.

  1. Oct 27, 2019 at 1:52 PM
    #1
    aro

    aro [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Does this wiring look good? I want to get one of the many generic aux fuse panels (correction: switch panel kit) for some lights, no big draw. I want to power it from the ignition though, not the battery.

    My next question is, any suggestions what fuse to tap?

    1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2019
  2. Oct 27, 2019 at 1:58 PM
    #2
    Blue92

    Blue92 Well-Known Member

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    100 amp fuse? What are you running off of it? Almost zero point of even having a fuse if youre gonna use one that high in a vehicle haha.
     
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  3. Oct 27, 2019 at 1:58 PM
    #3
    Hobbs

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    Are you planning to run a "generic aux fuse panels" or a "switch panel kit"?

    Your diagram suggests to me that you plan to run up to 100 amps through a Bosch-style relay. Is that your intent?
     
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  4. Oct 27, 2019 at 2:00 PM
    #4
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    That looks correct to me. Just wanna make sure you have a relay that can handle the current, which aren't hard to find.
     
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  5. Oct 27, 2019 at 3:00 PM
    #5
    aro

    aro [OP] Well-Known Member

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  6. Oct 27, 2019 at 3:32 PM
    #6
    Blue92

    Blue92 Well-Known Member

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    I would figure up what the amperage draw of whatever you wanna run off the circuit is, then find a breaker that suits it better. 100 amps is a lot. The wire will definetly melt at that amperage before the breaker is gonna trip. Unless youre running like 4 awg into the cab.
     
  7. Oct 27, 2019 at 3:38 PM
    #7
    crazysccrmd

    crazysccrmd Well-Known Member

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    I’d consider wiring the relay a constant hot rather than an ignition keyed source. That will give you the flexibility to run the lights whenever you want rather than only by leaving the key turned on in the truck.
     
  8. Oct 27, 2019 at 5:40 PM
    #8
    aro

    aro [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The relay will be about 1 foot from the battery, and the 100 A circuit breaker will be between them. Basically, I would have a 1 foot long 4 awg cable, between the relay and battery. The relay will be on top of the switch panel box. Shouldn't be a problem with such a short run.

    I know... I'm still thinking about this.
     
  9. Oct 27, 2019 at 5:51 PM
    #9
    Blue92

    Blue92 Well-Known Member

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    What are you running thats gonna pull anywhere near 100 amps? Thats so overkill that it could be dangerous. Find out how many amps the load is gonna draw and utilize an appropriately sized breaker. If it draws 25 amps, use a 30 amp breaker for example.
     
  10. Oct 27, 2019 at 5:55 PM
    #10
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    No it’s not. If anything it’s more safe. Once you start adding things up, i.e. fridge, lights, compressors, etc. it’s best to err on the side of overkill and have a wire that’s too thick as opposed to too thin. Plan for worst case scenario of all things running at once and add a little cushion.
     
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  11. Oct 27, 2019 at 5:58 PM
    #11
    0xDEADBEEF

    0xDEADBEEF lolcowboy

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    So we're assuming "Engine Fuse Box" is ignition switched, right?
     
  12. Oct 27, 2019 at 6:06 PM
    #12
    0xDEADBEEF

    0xDEADBEEF lolcowboy

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    I'm not sure how you're getting that a higher current fuse/breaker is safer. I'm all for thicker wire, but the fuse should be sized just a big bigger than the load you want to run, and then upgraded as additional loads are added.
     
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  13. Oct 27, 2019 at 6:10 PM
    #13
    Blue92

    Blue92 Well-Known Member

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    Im not reffering to wire, Im talking about the breaker size. If his load is only gonna draw 50 amps for example, why would he need to utilize a 100 amp breaker? Thats a ton of room for error and stuff to start smoking. ARB fridge doesnt draw anywhere near that per this thread . OP, again, what are you planning to run?
     
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  14. Oct 27, 2019 at 6:11 PM
    #14
    crazysccrmd

    crazysccrmd Well-Known Member

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    If the fuse/switch panel he is running has individual fused circuits (like a Blue Sea) I wouldn’t be concerned because the individual outputs are protected at that point. Even if it’s something like a Switch Pro he can wire each output fused independently appropriate to its draw. The 100amp breaker is essentially just protecting the fuse/switch panel from failure.
     
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  15. Oct 27, 2019 at 6:12 PM
    #15
    0xDEADBEEF

    0xDEADBEEF lolcowboy

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    Agreed.

    I think we need more schematic than will fit on the post it note he posted.
     
  16. Oct 27, 2019 at 10:33 PM
    #16
    aro

    aro [OP] Well-Known Member

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  17. Oct 28, 2019 at 1:53 AM
    #17
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    Yeah what he said. Each circuit is fused on its own so the large 100A fuse/circuit breaker is for say if you get in a front end collision, and that 4 gauge wire breaks free. Now instead of being able to freely short out on something metal and potentially starting a fire, the fuse should prevent that.
     
  18. Oct 28, 2019 at 2:14 AM
    #18
    SweetT

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    Please check my diagram. That’s what the blonde said to the gynecologist.
     
  19. Oct 28, 2019 at 3:12 PM
    #19
    PhenixFord

    PhenixFord Well-Known Member

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    I like your idea to have the power supply switched with the accessory circuit. But isn't the Bosch Relay only rated for 40 amps? Your probably going to need a solenoid for this.
     
  20. Oct 28, 2019 at 3:32 PM
    #20
    aro

    aro [OP] Well-Known Member

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    True... something to keep in mind when calculating the load
     
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