Please dont tell me you have to buy the whole pully set just to replace one pully

One of my tension er pulleys is going out, the bearing is starting to get really loud, i thought it was power steering at first but i noticed it changed sound with rpm not turning the wheel.

calling around the local shops here, they are saying that they only carry the full set. I would rather not have to pay $100 just for one pulley problem and deff not want to do all the work for all of them.


Any insight on this?!?!?!

 

NAPA carrys the upper and lower pullys seperate. Mine still squeels after a belt change. Should be installed by a shop, i wouldnt go messing around with tensions and torques. $100 dosent sound bad, think it was the same for 1 here. Just tell them you only need the squeeling one replaced.

 

3.4 V6?? The pullys are spring loaded. No adjustment That is if you are a 3.4 v6 Edit,, yhere is a tensioner that is spring loaded works or it doesn't also there is adjustment on alt belt and power steering. Is the idler pully (or pullys) bad?

 

No 2006 4.0l as it states in his info. I know on mine it's the upper idler pully that squeels. I know the tenisioner can squeel too tho. OP, make sure you know which pully it is. This can be done with belt dressing.

 

Relieve tension from the tensioner and slip the belt off. Spin every pulley by hand and inspect. Determine the failing one. Replace. It seriously took me like 15 minutes.

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...154-idler-pulley-bearing-failure-what-do.html

I bought my idler at Rock Auto, Napa carries the same ones but it was much cheaper through rock auto. I left off the dust shield as it rubbed on the new bearing. This is also a good time to really inspect your belt for cracks and wear and possibly replace and throw the old one in your truck as a spare.

Two Upper Pulleys (#2): 36173 Product Detail Page
One Lower Pulley (#1): 36174 Product Detail Page
Tensioner: 38411 Product Detail Page

 

If you wish you can remove the loud pulley and remove the outside seal on the bearing and repack with it with grease. Not as good as a new bearing but will give you many more miles trouble free if money is an issue (and the bearing isn't totally facked).

 

I did repack the old bearing after pressing it out and this is what I found.








For the cost I'd just replace it as I don't think you can do a very good job of cleaning and repacking without pressing it out. I just threw mine back in the truck as a spare.

 

As an after thought, the bearings in the pulleys are simple 6202 bearings that can be bought at any autoparts store or bearing shop. The problem is, the Toyota bearing shares the same outside diameter as the aftermarket one, but the inside diameter where the bolt holds it to the block is much larger on the aftermarket bearing versus the Toyota one.

If someone could source the shim that the Gates/RockAuto pulleys come with, it would be just a matter of buying a $5 6202 bearing and pressing it in your pulley. The shim would then reduce the inside diameter of the bearing to that of the bolt that holds it in place.

Clear as mud??

 

Something like this: