1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

POR 15 on a DCSB - How Big of a Time Commitment?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Turdburglar, Aug 5, 2010.

  1. Aug 5, 2010 at 3:23 AM
    #1
    Turdburglar

    Turdburglar [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 13, 2010
    Member:
    #37090
    Messages:
    106
    Gender:
    Male
    Enola, PA
    Vehicle:
    '10 DCSB SR5
    Trifecta, AVS Bugflector, TRD skid plate, 45% tint front windows, Gerber carseat lol
    So with all of the rusty frame hoopla, I'm considering applying POR 15 to my undercarriage. Since I have a new 2010 the rust is very minimal so I figure now is the best time. About how much time should it take from start to finish to do the whole undercarriage?

    I've got an infant at home so I feel bad if I leave the wifey alone while I tool around outside for too long, so that's why I ask.
     
  2. Aug 5, 2010 at 3:32 AM
    #2
    Turdburglar

    Turdburglar [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 13, 2010
    Member:
    #37090
    Messages:
    106
    Gender:
    Male
    Enola, PA
    Vehicle:
    '10 DCSB SR5
    Trifecta, AVS Bugflector, TRD skid plate, 45% tint front windows, Gerber carseat lol
    Also forgot to ask - should i get the pint, quart or gallon container?
     
  3. Aug 5, 2010 at 3:37 AM
    #3
    KodiakVA

    KodiakVA Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2009
    Member:
    #20273
    Messages:
    147
    Gender:
    Male
    Richmond Virginia
    Vehicle:
    09 4x4 XCab Sport BarcelRed
    I'm sure others will chime in with better info than this but I believe POR needs to be painted over metal that has already had the paint flaking off it. I do think that painting POR over metal parts that already have paint will not work. I could be wrong though but that is my understanding of POR.
     
  4. Aug 5, 2010 at 3:44 AM
    #4
    Deuxdiesel

    Deuxdiesel Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2009
    Member:
    #19996
    Messages:
    552
    Gender:
    Male
    SE MI
    Vehicle:
    '12 Silver Streak stocker
    I spent a lot of time chasing rust on old VW's with this stuff, and there are a few things you should consider;
    1. It tends to adhere better to rusty surfaces than smooth painted surfaces, which don't have quite the "tooth" for it to stick as well. There are several surface prep stages you should go through if you want the best results.
    2. If it gets on clothes , it will not come out, ever. Use a tyvek suit.
    3. If it gets on your skin, it won't come off until the layers of your skin shed. Don't bother with nitrile gloves- get some longer heavy rubber gloves.
    4. It is not UV stable. Some sort of top coat is required to keep it from turning whitish and flakey.

    As far as volume, I would think you are easily into the quart size. You might also want to check out stuff called "Master Series", which is UV stable, for comparison. Also, look into the stuff that Eastwood sells- I'm remembering they offer a frame encapsulation system that can be sprayed on, which would take less time to put on.

    Good luck with your project.
     
  5. Aug 5, 2010 at 4:19 AM
    #5
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2007
    Member:
    #1138
    Messages:
    14,256
    Gender:
    Female
    First Name:
    Jandy
    Lancaster, PA
    Vehicle:
    2016 GMC Canyon SLT w/ LineX and....
    I've used POR15 on my jeep axles. And like DeuxDiesel already mentioned, it doesn't stick too well to smooth surfaces. Even with a really good prep job and the proper materials (gets expensive), it can peel off over time. Atleast, that's what I've experienced. POR15 is great for extremely rusted surfaces and cast metal (pourous) where the POR15 seeps into the materials.

    POR15 is EXPENSIVE. The first coat won't last very long as it'll seep into the surfaces. The 2nd coats stretch a lot farther.

    To be completely honest?
    I'd do some research in using the DIY HERCULINER bedliner kit. You can get a gallon of this stuff at Walmart for like around $100. You still need to prep it, but the prep isn't nearly as intensive. Herculiner doesn't come off easily and when it does...it's cheap and easy just to paint overtop of it without additional prep work.
     
  6. Aug 5, 2010 at 7:29 AM
    #6
    09TRDSpt

    09TRDSpt African Light Infantry

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2009
    Member:
    #27338
    Messages:
    93
    Gender:
    Male
    Atlanta, GA
    Vehicle:
    09 TRD Sport DC 4x4
    Like the other guys I have used POR15 on many of my Military Jeep restorations. Issue is that POR15 is more of a rust treatment than preventer. If you paint the chassis with POR15 then rust grows under the OE paint it will take off the OE paint and the POR15.

    I usually apply this to bare or rusty parts. It's pretty expensive, but its thin and it goes a long way. I used a quart to do a M416 trailer the other day inside and out frame and top to bottom. Basically everything but the tires. I still have about an inch in the can. Make sure and put saran wrap between the lid and can if you close it. Otherwise it will be sealed forever.
     
  7. Aug 5, 2010 at 3:14 PM
    #7
    Turdburglar

    Turdburglar [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 13, 2010
    Member:
    #37090
    Messages:
    106
    Gender:
    Male
    Enola, PA
    Vehicle:
    '10 DCSB SR5
    Trifecta, AVS Bugflector, TRD skid plate, 45% tint front windows, Gerber carseat lol
    Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Glad I asked before I dropped a good bit of $ and time into this.
     
To Top