POR 15 on a DCSB - How Big of a Time Commitment?

So with all of the rusty frame hoopla, I'm considering applying POR 15 to my undercarriage. Since I have a new 2010 the rust is very minimal so I figure now is the best time. About how much time should it take from start to finish to do the whole undercarriage?

I've got an infant at home so I feel bad if I leave the wifey alone while I tool around outside for too long, so that's why I ask.

 

Also forgot to ask - should i get the pint, quart or gallon container?

 

I'm sure others will chime in with better info than this but I believe POR needs to be painted over metal that has already had the paint flaking off it. I do think that painting POR over metal parts that already have paint will not work. I could be wrong though but that is my understanding of POR.

 

I spent a lot of time chasing rust on old VW's with this stuff, and there are a few things you should consider;
1. It tends to adhere better to rusty surfaces than smooth painted surfaces, which don't have quite the "tooth" for it to stick as well. There are several surface prep stages you should go through if you want the best results.
2. If it gets on clothes , it will not come out, ever. Use a tyvek suit.
3. If it gets on your skin, it won't come off until the layers of your skin shed. Don't bother with nitrile gloves- get some longer heavy rubber gloves.
4. It is not UV stable. Some sort of top coat is required to keep it from turning whitish and flakey.

As far as volume, I would think you are easily into the quart size. You might also want to check out stuff called "Master Series", which is UV stable, for comparison. Also, look into the stuff that Eastwood sells- I'm remembering they offer a frame encapsulation system that can be sprayed on, which would take less time to put on.

Good luck with your project.

 

I've used POR15 on my jeep axles. And like DeuxDiesel already mentioned, it doesn't stick too well to smooth surfaces. Even with a really good prep job and the proper materials (gets expensive), it can peel off over time. Atleast, that's what I've experienced. POR15 is great for extremely rusted surfaces and cast metal (pourous) where the POR15 seeps into the materials.

POR15 is EXPENSIVE. The first coat won't last very long as it'll seep into the surfaces. The 2nd coats stretch a lot farther.

To be completely honest?
I'd do some research in using the DIY HERCULINER bedliner kit. You can get a gallon of this stuff at Walmart for like around $100. You still need to prep it, but the prep isn't nearly as intensive. Herculiner doesn't come off easily and when it does...it's cheap and easy just to paint overtop of it without additional prep work.

 

Like the other guys I have used POR15 on many of my Military Jeep restorations. Issue is that POR15 is more of a rust treatment than preventer. If you paint the chassis with POR15 then rust grows under the OE paint it will take off the OE paint and the POR15.

I usually apply this to bare or rusty parts. It's pretty expensive, but its thin and it goes a long way. I used a quart to do a M416 trailer the other day inside and out frame and top to bottom. Basically everything but the tires. I still have about an inch in the can. Make sure and put saran wrap between the lid and can if you close it. Otherwise it will be sealed forever.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Glad I asked before I dropped a good bit of $ and time into this.