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Power in bed's rear AC plug won't stay on

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by overlandsauce, Sep 5, 2021.

  1. Sep 5, 2021 at 8:57 AM
    #1
    overlandsauce

    overlandsauce [OP] Member

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    Hey does anyone know how to make the rear ac plug in the bed of the truck work while driving to stay at 400w? i plug my fridge in and the power wont stay on.
     
  2. Sep 5, 2021 at 9:01 AM
    #2
    Tacomike18

    Tacomike18 Well-Known Member

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    There should be a switch in the cab to turn the outlet on.
     
  3. Sep 5, 2021 at 9:02 AM
    #3
    overlandsauce

    overlandsauce [OP] Member

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    well ya i turn it on and then once i start driving it goes to 100w or turns off, i read that this is some sort of safety feature with tacoma once you start driving it turns off the power. so any ideas how to disable that?
     
  4. Sep 5, 2021 at 9:02 AM
    #4
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    You have to pull your center console to get to the inverter underneath it and cut some wires and ground some wires and supposedly that'll make it work, the only thread I found on the subject was a couple years old and the pictures were no longer working, I followed the written instructions to the letter but while my inverter still works in the bed, it still functions as factory so your mileage may vary.

    The 400w inverter is realistically pretty small, wouldn't be a bad idea to simply replace it with something larger.

    I wish I knew why Toyota thought it was a good idea to have it only work at 400 watts with the truck in park.

    :annoyed:
     
  5. Sep 5, 2021 at 9:06 AM
    #5
    overlandsauce

    overlandsauce [OP] Member

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    so maybe just plug the fridge into a dc outlet inside the cab and run a super long cord all the back into the back into the fridge lol.. or what if i plugged a inverter into the plug in the back would that make a difference.
     
  6. Sep 5, 2021 at 9:09 AM
    #6
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    Locker anytime Fog Lights anytime Full LED light conversion TRD cat back Rear cat delete Exaust Y reroute away from actuator Alloy Clutch master 2000 4Runner "Dog Leg" shift leaver Marlin shift seats and bushing Rear seat delete Rear diff breather extension Chrome grille swap Debadge Rear seat delete Honda blower motor beefy plug and wire mod Anytime 12v and USB with volt gauge in bed Blue Sea fuse box Hella AND 70's Caddy horns Low profile recessed hex drain plug swaps Alluminum battery strap 7pin relocated Backup cam on anytime Various other creature comfort and personal taste mods.

    Anytime you convert you are losing something in efficiency and through heat you want to convert the power as few times as possible, the fridge you have can it run on either AC or DC?

    I don't recommend running something that has a periodic high peak load off of one of the interior 12 volt sockets, they can't take much amperage and they have a built-in thermal fuse on the back of them that can burn out very easily, they're only intended for a few amps simple things like charging devices and whatnot. A fridge may not overload the thermal link, but I wouldn't be surprised if it did.

    Honestly your best bet is to run a fused power service wire 6 gauge or larger all the way to the back and have a distribution bus fused for each device.

    This is what I did for my aircomp rear power and eventually a fridge.
     
  7. Sep 5, 2021 at 9:11 AM
    #7
    Broadrunner

    Broadrunner Well-Known Member

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  8. Sep 5, 2021 at 9:19 AM
    #8
    Skydvrr

    Skydvrr IG: @kalopsianick

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    kmorgan3 and Key-Rei like this.
  9. Sep 5, 2021 at 9:20 AM
    #9
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    If your fridge will be back there all the time, install a 12v socket back there right off the battery. Dometic offers a kit with everything you need, or do it yourself. 10 gauge wire so the voltage loss doesn’t cause your fridge to cut off.
     
    JoeCOVA likes this.
  10. Sep 5, 2021 at 9:23 AM
    #10
    overlandsauce

    overlandsauce [OP] Member

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    you have a link?
     
  11. Sep 5, 2021 at 9:26 AM
    #11
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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  12. Sep 5, 2021 at 9:29 AM
    #12
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    What fridge do you have?
     
  13. Sep 5, 2021 at 9:33 AM
    #13
    kmorgan3

    kmorgan3 Redside Electric, LLC | VLEDS

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    Yeah I sent your kit in the mail. Forgot to send you the tracking.

    I’ve got a few more harnesses ordered.
     
    Skydvrr[QUOTED] likes this.
  14. Sep 5, 2021 at 9:44 AM
    #14
    Skydvrr

    Skydvrr IG: @kalopsianick

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    No troubles at all. Just lettin peeps now there might soon be a kit out there.
     
    kmorgan3[QUOTED] likes this.
  15. Sep 5, 2021 at 10:21 AM
    #15
    kmorgan3

    kmorgan3 Redside Electric, LLC | VLEDS

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    @overlandsauce I’ve got a plug and play kit to do exactly what you’re asking. Shoot me a PM. I have to build a few more prototypes, but it will prevent you from cutting any wires.
     
    medicfung and Skydvrr like this.
  16. Sep 5, 2021 at 11:39 AM
    #16
    Rainman443

    Rainman443 Well-Known Member

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  17. Sep 5, 2021 at 11:59 AM
    #17
    Scottysan

    Scottysan Well-Known Member

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  18. Sep 5, 2021 at 12:49 PM
    #18
    JoeCOVA

    JoeCOVA Well-Known Member

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    Most fridges need a maximum of 8 amps for the compressor. The 400w doesn’t have enough it may work most of the time but not all
     
  19. Sep 5, 2021 at 1:14 PM
    #19
    Wyckedan

    Wyckedan Well-Known Member

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    My fridge has never pulled more than 160-180w. 400 is plenty
     
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  20. Sep 5, 2021 at 6:51 PM
    #20
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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