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Power locks not opening

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Jcoop116, May 17, 2018.

  1. May 17, 2018 at 10:36 AM
    #1
    Jcoop116

    Jcoop116 [OP] Member

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    anybody have problems with their power locks? My driver and passenger side will not lock by the door or key fob, but will open from the key fob. Confused.
     
  2. May 17, 2018 at 10:41 AM
    #2
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    did you check your fuses already ?
     
  3. May 17, 2018 at 10:43 AM
    #3
    Jcoop116

    Jcoop116 [OP] Member

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    I have not checked those yet. Stuff I have read say actuator?
     
  4. May 17, 2018 at 10:46 AM
    #4
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    trouble shooting 101 amigo - start with the simple stuff, check the fuses first then work down the line from there.
     
  5. May 27, 2018 at 5:41 PM
    #5
    TraverseFar

    TraverseFar New Member

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    I have same issue. Suddenly none of the electronic locking options (fob, door buttons, drivers exterior door handle) work. The only thing that does work is the fob UNlocking option. I've been trying to narrow down which fuses to check as I don't want to pull any that might reset any of my electronics. On the interior fuse box cover, I have descriptions for: SFT LOCK-ACC, DOOR R/L, DOOR F/R, DOOR F/L. Any thoughts on which one is the likely culprit (or a different one I didn't mention)? Thinking this would still be under warranty, but prefer to not hassle with a visit to the dealership. :)
     
  6. May 27, 2018 at 6:57 PM
    #6
    Dennisi01

    Dennisi01 Well-Known Member

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    Id just say take it to the dealer, tbh. Take advantage of the warranty while you have it
     
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  7. May 27, 2018 at 7:08 PM
    #7
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Are you saying there is a fuse for lock and another for unlock?

    Doesnt seem logical to me.
     
  8. May 27, 2018 at 7:10 PM
    #8
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    is it just that one door? (all the others function properly?)

    Does the lock end up locking if you push the lock button on the door quickly and repetitively?

    More than likely your issue is a door lock actuator motor. A 6 dollar part on ebay for the little electric motor that ends up slowly failing and ends up in the situation you describe. My passenger rear door went out via the same demise.

    Like stated 6 dollar part on ebay, you need a "20mm long flat shaft motor"

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mabuchi-Ni...hash=item19e3ec87fb:m:mETANqFNBgmy6A7-sXogfPg

    Its kind of a bitch to get to the door lock actuator itself, but follow a youtube video and go slow and its maybe an hour n a half job and will save you TONS of money.
     
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    #8
    4WDTrout and TraverseFar like this.
  9. May 27, 2018 at 7:10 PM
    #9
    Wolftaco0503

    Wolftaco0503 Well-Known Member

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    maybe their locked :confused:
     
  10. May 27, 2018 at 7:14 PM
    #10
    dedmouse

    dedmouse Well-Known Member

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    The drivers door on mine started doing this a few months ago. It’s the actuator motor that’s crapped out. Eventually I’ll get tired of locking the truck manually and fix it. There are videos on YouTube explains how to do it. Thanks for the link to the correct motors on eBay.
     
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  11. May 27, 2018 at 7:55 PM
    #11
    TraverseFar

    TraverseFar New Member

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    None of my doors are locking. I imagine it's just one fuse, just not sure which one when I look at them.
     
  12. Jun 9, 2018 at 11:03 AM
    #12
    TraverseFar

    TraverseFar New Member

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    Got it back from dealer yesterday. Blown 20 amp door lock fuse caused by short in wire harness for B pillar. Warranty covered it and they added foam to both harness per Toyota.
     
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  13. Jun 9, 2018 at 11:07 AM
    #13
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    that will do it!
     
  14. Aug 28, 2018 at 10:40 AM
    #14
    highwest

    highwest Well-Known Member

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    @TraverseFar - which specific fuse was blown? Toyota dealer is trying to blame this issue on my reverse cam anytime switch, but I’d like to have them look into the B pillar short.

    Thanks.
     
  15. Aug 28, 2018 at 4:30 PM
    #15
    TraverseFar

    TraverseFar New Member

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    Here’s all the detail the dealership gave me:

    DDA1EF6A-4594-4B5D-A6B8-C64985D7415E.jpg 17B7599B-C05E-4D2E-9C04-F497B2BE8F36.jpg
     
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  16. Aug 29, 2018 at 9:29 AM
    #16
    highwest

    highwest Well-Known Member

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    Very helpful, thank you.
     
  17. Jun 16, 2021 at 12:13 AM
    #17
    ramjd

    ramjd Member

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    Could there be a fuse for each door? Only my driver and passenger doors don’t respond to lock/unlock via remote or the rocker switch on driver door.
    Or, is it sure that the actuators on these both doors have gone bad?

    It’s surprising because I observed the behaviour only street installing the pop’n’lock on my tailgate.
     
  18. Jun 16, 2021 at 12:55 AM
    #18
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    As you can see from the schematic the power to operate the doors comes from the Body ECU which is in the fuse panel behind the dash on the left side of the steering wheel.

    Three fuses feed the Body ECU:

    IG1 No2 Fuse - 10 Amp
    Dr Lck Fuse - 20 Amp
    ECU-B Fuse - 7.5 Amp

    There is not a fuse for each door, there is not a fuse for up and one for down. The problem could be a lot of things. The actuator motor is a known common weak point. If some doors work and some doors do not then the actuators could be the issue.

    If you had no problems then did some wiring during the Pop and Lock installation chances are Very Good that something was wired incorrectly. That is what I would bet and would start my troubleshooting there, as your statement above said:

    These prints may help you sort it out. I wish you the best of luck. If you don't have a Digital MultiMeter (DMM) or know how to use one, now would be a good time to get one and learn. It is an invaluable tool.


     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2021

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