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Power steering gearbox leak

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas' started by st1ck2urgunz, Jun 1, 2013.

  1. Jun 1, 2013 at 4:53 PM
    #1
    st1ck2urgunz

    st1ck2urgunz [OP] New Member

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    I've been searching the internet hoping to find a solution to my problem but i haven't quite found the answer i was looking for. My power steering is leaking and I think i found the source but I'm not sure if there's a seal to replace. Any help is greatly appreciated. I also apologize for the oversized picture.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Jun 1, 2013 at 5:11 PM
    #2
    tacomataco2

    tacomataco2 Well-Known Member

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    Same thing happened to me, it's the seal at the input of the steering rack I believe. I replaced the unit with a Toyota steering rack
     
  3. Jun 1, 2013 at 6:41 PM
    #3
    st1ck2urgunz

    st1ck2urgunz [OP] New Member

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    Do they sell seals for it at any auto parts store like O'Reilly? I don't have enough money to buy a new rack so I would like to fix the leak.
     
  4. Jun 1, 2013 at 7:33 PM
    #4
    TejasYOTA

    TejasYOTA Countinuous improvement

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    Check the TTORA Garage Section....
  5. Jan 19, 2014 at 4:56 PM
    #5
    KerlyQ

    KerlyQ Well-Known Member

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    Wow that is the identical spot mine is leaking too. Did you end up rebuilding it or just buy a new rack and pinion...I found a re-manufactured one close to home but doesnt come with any of the TRE's or bushings...So how did you approach this job? I want to try to rebuild mine but not sure if I need any special tools or not...What did you do?
     
  6. Jan 20, 2014 at 9:59 AM
    #6
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool She caught the KATY and left me a mule to ride

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    THE SHORT VERSION
    That upper control valve seal (leaking in the OP pic) is the most difficult seal to replace in the entire rack. If it is to be replaced the whole rack might as well be resealed. This job is only for the well seasoned wrench. It requires a very clean work place, a press and 2 special tools. There is also a fair amount of "practices" and generic "standard shop procedures" involved.
    This seal is relatively prone to failure due to a somewhat inadequate "dust cover", the rubber umbrella shaped thing at the top in the OP pic. The dust cover comes from the factory with a light coating of grease between it and the control valve housing. This grease attracts dirt and effectively contains the resultant sludge around and eventually contaminating the seal. It is a good practice to slide it up now and then and carefully wipe away the crud, don't wipe it into the seal.
    The procedure in FSM is actually pretty good but can be intimidating. Read through it for a taste of what you are getting into.
    Then there is the question, is it worth it? For 99% of folks, no. The condition of the rest of the rack is likely questionable. That and the year of production deserve a long hard look.

    Here is a shot of the control valve internals. The seal in question is under the bearing (beyond the arrow). Both get pressed out together and back in separately. The bearing is reused. The octagonal brass piece is the tool used to R&R the lower seal carrier, required to get the valve assembly apart.
    [​IMG]

    The seal carrier.
    [​IMG]

    The "OctOtool" in action, unscrewing the carrier.
    [​IMG]

    The second "tool" needed works like a piston ring compressor on the 4 Teflon seal rings in the mid section of the valve. They get stretched out as they are installed and must be squeezed back to size. This is only needed if new rings are installed. I have the dimensions and several methods for making up these tools if there is interest.
     
  7. Jan 20, 2014 at 4:53 PM
    #7
    KerlyQ

    KerlyQ Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the detailed reply. Yes there is GREAT interest in the dimensions and the several methods for making up the tools. I cant find a "step by step" guide anywhere on the internet for rebuilding it but plenty of rebuilding kits. I bought the remanufactured rack and pinion yesterday and it should be here in the morning. I plan on swapping the units and using the (new to me) one while I take a stab at rebuilding my original one for a back up. My Truck is an 2002 3.4 4x4 Dbl cab Tacoma and the only differences in the racks is the hex nut. The remanufactured one is the "outy" and my original unit is the "inny". I'm going to swap them since I know the "roller" type bearing" one has a few problems. When I rebuild my current rack I will just order the new parts with a the new ring and seal kit since I found all the part #'s over at TTORA. Again thanks in advance for your help. Its more than appreciated. ...Also...You wouldnt know of a step by step approach to this job would you?
     
  8. Jan 21, 2014 at 3:52 PM
    #8
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool She caught the KATY and left me a mule to ride

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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, Both 31" MTZ's and 33" Toyo's, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    Got your PM, will get all the tool info and tips together, maybe tomorrow.
    It will be here or a new thread. Download the FSM, it is the best step by step there is (with a little clarification).
     
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