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Power Window Diagnostic

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by leviathan, Feb 3, 2019.

  1. Feb 3, 2019 at 6:56 AM
    #1
    leviathan

    leviathan [OP] Active Member

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    Raleigh, NC
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    2003 Xtra Cab, 4x4 TRD 3.4L V6 manual transmission
    I'm working on the power windows in my 2003 Xtra Cab. The passenger side is slow/weak, and the driver side looses power after about 2-3", eventually coming to a complete stop. If I wait 5 minutes or so and try again, it will go another 2-3 inches and stop. I'm assuming it's bad/old motors on both sides and I'll need to replace the lift mechanism and motor? (I have not seen them sold separately.)

    Short video of window behavior: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2fy6ll2gvkaccm9/VID_20190202_103305.mp4?dl=0

    Replacement: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TY6LL...olid=2F9U6QJ9BGL0X&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

    Any thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated!
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2019
  2. Feb 3, 2019 at 7:23 AM
    #2
    zach141b

    zach141b Well-Known Member

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    My driver's side was replaced three years ago with a similar non-OEM part. It still works, but it is now showing some roughness (for lack of a better word) in the upper 3" of travel. If I had it to do again and could afford it, I'd go Toyota for this part.
     
    leviathan [OP] likes this.
  3. Feb 3, 2019 at 11:21 AM
    #3
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    So the right window works poor from the right switch as well as the master switch??

    Easy to test power the window motors direct If they are still slow time for new

    Voltage loss enough to cause your problems Have you measured voltage at the motors ??

    how often do you lubricate the windows ??

    Remember you get what you pay for I only bought motors from Toyota
     
    leviathan [OP] likes this.
  4. Feb 3, 2019 at 12:43 PM
    #4
    leviathan

    leviathan [OP] Active Member

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    Thank you for your replies/questions.

    Good point about the source/quality. I'll price genuine Toyota parts.

    Wyoming09, the passenger window is only slightly better from the passenger control switch. I just did a couple trials. Seems to have a bit more power, but not much after a couple cycles of up/down. Along those lines, I did replace the driver's side switch in 2014 with a part from a company called Switch Doctor. At that time the driver's side window was completely dead. The new switch fixed that completely until about a year ago when this intermittent motor performance started.

    I bought this truck new in '03, and the windows have NEVER been lubricated. I was hoping that was the issue, and have been cleaning out the old grease over the past couple days with WD-40 to see if that improved performance. A knowledgeable source guessed the motor was struggling because of a broken track or old grease before I opened up the door.

    I have not measured voltage at the motors. I will do so next time I'm working on it. What should it be measuring?
     
  5. Feb 3, 2019 at 1:28 PM
    #5
    MikeWH

    MikeWH Well-Known Member

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    Wd-40 is not a lubricant. Clean with degreaser, and regrease and see what happens
     
    outlawtacoma likes this.
  6. Feb 3, 2019 at 1:30 PM
    #6
    leviathan

    leviathan [OP] Active Member

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    ;)
     
  7. Feb 3, 2019 at 1:33 PM
    #7
    MikeWH

    MikeWH Well-Known Member

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    Gotcha, try a synthetic grease and see what happens. Also try cleaning out the tracks, might be a lot of resistance there
     
    leviathan [OP] likes this.
  8. Feb 3, 2019 at 1:45 PM
    #8
    leviathan

    leviathan [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks, will do. Going to be next weekend before I get back to it, but I'll hit them both with grease after they are clean and see what it gets me.
     
  9. Feb 4, 2019 at 12:36 AM
    #9
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    You should have the voltage you have at the battery !

    Minus a slight line loss. should always be 12.5 VDC or above

    As the harness is flexing every time the door opens wires strands do break

    You are doing the testing with the engine running I have seen tired batteries cause issues with windows and sometimes even turn signals
     
    leviathan [OP] likes this.
  10. Feb 5, 2019 at 5:43 AM
    #10
    leviathan

    leviathan [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks, Whoming09. Going to get back to it this weekend. Appreciate the advice!
     
  11. Feb 5, 2019 at 12:42 PM
    #11
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Your Welcome I hope it helps!!
     
  12. Feb 9, 2019 at 1:34 PM
    #12
    leviathan

    leviathan [OP] Active Member

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    Broke the whole assembly down, cleaned and re-greased. Tested the voltage at the motor, 12v. Reassembled. Same performance. Looks like I'll need to replace it. Will use genuine Toyota part.
     
  13. Feb 9, 2019 at 3:34 PM
    #13
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    You only got 12VDC with the engine running ??
     
  14. Feb 9, 2019 at 4:17 PM
    #14
    leviathan

    leviathan [OP] Active Member

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    No, ignition on, didn't crank it, measured at the connector coming from the switch. Should I measure it differently?
     
  15. Feb 10, 2019 at 2:36 AM
    #15
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Ok After all this is your truck.you are at the scene

    I had a 2005 I worked on for windows doing the same thing it had so much voltage drop it would not move the window at all unless the alternator was charging this was after new window motors were installed and a new battery .

    Replacing a few of the wires in the harness coming out of the doors into the cab fixed the problem on that one.

    You can only go with the results you have best of luck
     
  16. Feb 10, 2019 at 3:42 PM
    #16
    leviathan

    leviathan [OP] Active Member

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    Ordered a new motor. It has been happening while driving over the past year. Thanks for your input!
     
  17. Feb 13, 2019 at 8:40 AM
    #17
    Edlo

    Edlo Member

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    The lift mechanism is a spring. They get tired. When they get tired the motor has to work harder, gets hotter, then turns off for safety and cools down. I think it might be for safety so you don't crush something with the window or it is how it operates the autostop when opening and closing. I bought a switch and regulator on ebay to diagnose it. Had the same problem with the new switch so I went back to the old one. The original motor did not fit into the cheap assembly. The new part looked slightly different but functioned in a similar manner and had the same mounting points. THERE IS TENSION IN THE ASSEMBLY after removing it and removing the motor can cause you to lose a finger or more. The motor is fighting the tension. The part that was missing from the new assembly looked like it might have provided some safety for removing the motor.

    It was pretty easy to take off and there are youtube videos.

    After putting everything back together. The switch polarity was wrong. I had originally tested it and it moved up and down but it was backwards from the other three switches. It is a keyed connection so it can't go in the wrong way. I cut and flipped the wires around on regulator side and left the OEM alone. So test it before putting eveything back together. I think it took about 45 minutes the 1st time and 10 minutes the second.


    After a couple of years, I finally threw out the old Toyota assemble and Motor.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/window-regulator-motor-install.284882/

    Picture of the original and new

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/windows-problem-regulator-replacement.498855/
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2019
  18. Mar 3, 2019 at 10:35 AM
    #18
    leviathan

    leviathan [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks for all the input. I ended up replacing the motor and it works like now. Used the Toyota part.
     

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