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Power window problems

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas' started by nmm7199, Nov 17, 2012.

  1. nmm7199

    nmm7199 [OP] Member

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    I have a 2004 Xtra Cab Tacoma. I've changed both power window switches and the motor is good when I wire it directly to a battery. ANY idea as to why my passenger side will roll down with the passenger side switch and not the driver's side...neither will roll the window up. OCCASIONALLY, they will both work. I'm thinking a bad ground somewhere? Does any one know where these are grounded so that I can check it?

    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    Did you clean the contacts within the master switch assembly?

    My driver's side switch for my driver's side window was sporadic.

    Take it apart and spray the hell out of the contacts with electric parts cleaner and wipe clean with a swab.

    It made all the world of difference for me.

    I'm a little hesitant to say that is ultimately your problem because it doesn't work on your passenger side either. Not sure if the contacts are the issue because they are physically manipulated to connect the circuit.

    As for your question, I had my 98 door panels off and the wires that run up into my passenger side, and driver's side switch (and assembly) were all just bundled together and ran into a quick connect that plugged in under the switch. I am not sure what color wire is what but they all ran through the rubber pass through and behind the kick panel. Then they plugged in to a massive connector of many wires.

    Here's my master assembly before and after:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The passenger side switch, for the passenger side window, are those copper and silver circular contacts in the upper right of the bottom pic. The driver's side switch for the driver's side window are those thin copper and silver blades that run vertically in the lower right of the bottom picture.

    Hope that helps
     
  3. nmm7199

    nmm7199 [OP] Member

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    Thanks! I'll give it a try and see. That makes sense since it is sporadic, like you say. I'll tear it apart and see what works.
     
  4. joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    If you have brand new switches, and the passenger switch always will move the window down, I believe you can eliminate the switches and motor.

    My first check would be the wiring harness where it enters the driver's door. Every time you open and close your door, all the wires get flexed. I'm not aware of an issue with Tacomas, but have heard of other makes getting cracked wires in that area. The insulation may be intact, but the copper inside can be broken. Usually, the two switches are connected in such a way that a failure in the driver's side harness may affect the passenger side control.
     
  5. nmm7199

    nmm7199 [OP] Member

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    Do any of y'all know which wires might possibly be the culprit of this problem? I'm sure it's probably in the areas between the doors and the cabs, but if the insulation isn't broken, it's tough to figure out which one it could be.

    Thanks
     
  6. Tribull

    Tribull Only women shave beneath the neck.

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    I had a similar problem with my driver side window about a year ago. Sporadic operation. I checked the switches, cleaned them. It was still sporadic. I tested the motor, it TESTED good. I check all my connections, and didn't find anything wrong with the wiring. I ended up replacing the motor, and voila! It worked!
     
  7. nmm7199

    nmm7199 [OP] Member

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    Ok. I had a friend who runs a Japanese automotive shop dig into it today. He said that I'm not getting a ground signal coming from the main switch in the driver's door (that switch is good btw). He said that the ground comes from the ECM (if I understood him correctly). Does anyone know how to test for that or what color wire I could trace to see if I have a broken ground coming from the ECM? I'm grasping at straws, I know. Any help is greatly appreciated!
     
  8. Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
    Maybe it's a P/W relay. [​IMG]
     
  9. joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    You need a wiring schematic. If your buddy isn't able to print you one out, a Haynes or Chiltons from the parts store should have that info in it. You could also buy a AllDatadiy subscription for your truck. I have one for mine, it's very useful. They do short term 6 month subscriptions too, I want to say they are under 20 bucks.
     
  10. nmm7199

    nmm7199 [OP] Member

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    I have continuity on the copper terminals. Should I have it on the other 2 also?
     
  11. joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    I am looking at my diagram for a 2006, just for a general idea of how the power flow works.

    Is the situation still the same as your original post? The passenger switch works to roll down the passenger window, but not up, and the drivers switch won't operate the passenger window at all? The driver's window still works?
     
  12. joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    The relay just supplies power to the window system when the key is on. As long as he has some sign of life from the windows, the relay is okay.
     
  13. joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    When you changed the switches, did you use new parts?
     
  14. nmm7199

    nmm7199 [OP] Member

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    Yes. I used new switches. Tested the drivers side with a new switch...replaced the passenger side. Passenger window will roll down but won't come back up. I can raise it with a wire directly from the battery to the motor. Hard to do coming down the road though ;).
     
  15. joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I am looking at the wiring for my truck and yours must be different, I can't visualize how a wiring failure would cause those symptoms with the way mine is wired. It would have to be a failed switch.

    So you tried a new driver's side switch, it did not make a difference, then you changed the passenger switch? Did you ever have both new switches installed at the same time. You may have a failure in both of them. That could cause these symptoms.
     
  16. nmm7199

    nmm7199 [OP] Member

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    Yeah. I had both new switches in and got the same result. I just didn't keep the new main switch since nothing changed.
     
  17. joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    I think your next step should be a wiring diagram, a meter, and someone to hold the switches down while you probe wires with the meter.
     
  18. nmm7199

    nmm7199 [OP] Member

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    Thanks for trying! I have everyone around here stumped.
     
  19. joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    If anyone else is reading this and has the ability to post the wiring diagram for this system, I am very curious.
     
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