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PreRunner vs 4wd driveshaft

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by bigtex2884, Apr 11, 2014.

  1. Apr 11, 2014 at 7:27 PM
    #1
    bigtex2884

    bigtex2884 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So comparing a dcsb auto pre vs 4wd. Is there any differences in the main driveshaft aside from the fact that the 4wd has 5 zerk fittings?
     
  2. Apr 11, 2014 at 7:36 PM
    #2
    iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

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    2WD has a slip yoke that slides into the tail housing of the transmission. The 4WD has the slip yoke aft of the center bearing, and the front of the driveshaft is a flange that bolts up to the transfer case.

    Only 3 u-joints on the main driveshaft, 3 zerks. Other two are hiding on the front driveshaft
     
  3. Apr 11, 2014 at 7:39 PM
    #3
    bigtex2884

    bigtex2884 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Figured a swap wouldn't work. Just sucks you can't grease the 2wd shaft
     
  4. Apr 11, 2014 at 7:40 PM
    #4
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    umm... well yes the 2wd has a yoke that slips into the tail of the transmission. It is not the same as the slip joint you describe... both have a slip joint just after the center u joint to allow for a change in length due to suspension movement.

    That stated, the 2wd and 4wd are of different lengths on the front shaft due to the transfer case and rear shaft changes in length for ACLB/DCSB and DCLB wheel bases.

    And i want to say but dont quote me, all have zerk fittings after 07, or is it 09. You can easily put in greasable u joints into a drive shaft that does not have greasable u joints.
     
  5. Apr 11, 2014 at 7:42 PM
    #5
    bigtex2884

    bigtex2884 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have an 08 and located 0 while installing my drive shaft spacer this afternoon. They are all sealed. If the newer pre's have that Maybe I could swap into one of those
     
  6. Apr 11, 2014 at 8:58 PM
    #6
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    I can confirm that the 2012 Prerunner's have Zerk Fittings on the drive shaft.
     
  7. Apr 11, 2014 at 8:58 PM
    #7
    iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

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    FSM says no slip joint behind the center universal joint on 2WD
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2014
  8. Apr 12, 2014 at 4:59 PM
    #8
    bigtex2884

    bigtex2884 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I guess just replacing the ujoints that have zerks would probably be the cheapest option. Can someone suggest what brand and part number to purchase because I've never changed them before but looks simple. I'd assume ujoints have sizes??
     
  9. Apr 12, 2014 at 5:05 PM
    #9
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    You have 5 total zerks for a 4wd ?? I've got 8 or 9 actually
     
  10. Apr 12, 2014 at 5:23 PM
    #10
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    well... 5 total on the actual drive shafts... then there are the ones for the ball joints yeah?


    also the prerunners have to have a slip joint, the center carrier doesnt move forward and aft.... take another look.
     
  11. Apr 12, 2014 at 7:50 PM
    #11
    iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

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    Spicer joints supposedly last the longest. 5-213X have the zerk in the middle, and 5-1330-1X have the zerk in the cap like the OEM 4WD shafts.

    Might have to find these at a driveline shop, which is good because you can give them the part number off your driveshaft and be 100% sure they'll fit.

    Factory ball joints = no zerks, all permanently greased.

    copied this from one of Relik's posts. Center bearing DOES move, in the rubber itself. Not how I would design it, but there it is

    PhotoAug2144527PM_zpsd8ef7214_4bfd54c11c4dd55150a88a4ff71b69c7ee80b089.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2014
  12. Apr 12, 2014 at 7:58 PM
    #12
    bigtex2884

    bigtex2884 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Awesome thanks for those part numbers. I'm away from my truck so for more clarification there is a ujoint in the front by the tranny. A 2nd after the cb and a 3rd right before the rear diff? 3 ujoints and a cb joint?
     
  13. Apr 12, 2014 at 8:01 PM
    #13
    iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

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    no such thing as a cb joint, at least not under a truck anyways lol

    Yeah, just the 3. Should all be the same size AFAIK. They were on my 4WD shaft. The middle one has to be removed for access to the nut that secures the center bearing.

    I had a driveshaft shop change mine out with the 5-213X. Heck with the new bearing and a rebalancing it was under $200 total. I couldn't justify doing it myself for that
     
  14. Apr 12, 2014 at 8:02 PM
    #14
    bigtex2884

    bigtex2884 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Carrier Barring. The doohickey where the two shafts meet in the middle
     
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  15. Apr 12, 2014 at 8:06 PM
    #15
    VanCity4x

    VanCity4x Well-Known Member

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    The Non Greasable u joints are actually superior. I have the Splicer hd permanently greased joints, there the best available for these driveshafts, like said above, same as the non grease ball joints. Don't worry about changing them til there broken, it's not necessary.
     
  16. Apr 12, 2014 at 8:16 PM
    #16
    iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

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    It's true the non-greaseables don't have the joint cross drilled for grease passage so they are a fair bit stronger. Good for rock climbing, drag racing, and other high torque situations. (edit: these are Spicer 5-1330 joints from the factory if you want them again)

    For general road conditions the greaseables tend to last longer though, provided you purge all the old grease out every oil change, and use the proper stuff Dana says to use. Many guys get 200k+ out of factory greaseables.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2014
  17. Apr 12, 2014 at 8:24 PM
    #17
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Well, no actually..at least my ball joints are the shitty perma-seal type
    any part you can't service/lube is a waste of money..perma-seal is a perma-fail






    I could not disagree more, any moving external part that isn't serviceable is doomed to fail, grease gets old like everything else & they WILL dry out leading to failure, My 2000 came stock with zerks on everything that you'd service /lube... I'm on my original U joints, 216k still tight & quiet

    & you obliviously have never had a ball joint drop out on you, if you had you'd make it a priority to check before you left your driveway, everyday
     
  18. Apr 12, 2014 at 10:01 PM
    #18
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    Just the norm skids, sliders, & 35's
    If we were talking about axle joints then yes they are superior but for a drive shift where the torque is 3-4 times less than a serviceable joint is better for service life.
     
  19. Apr 12, 2014 at 10:10 PM
    #19
    iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

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    That would indeed suck. I was lucky; caught one LBJ before it had a chance to separate on my first car. Boot tore, grease gone, joint toast. Scary.
     
  20. Apr 13, 2014 at 9:28 AM
    #20
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    wow thats crazy on the prerunners, how the the hell does that driveshaft expand and collapse for suspension movement.
     

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