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Preventative Maintenance for Long Travel (Advice after going LT)

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by Marnes2986, Feb 13, 2012.

  1. Feb 16, 2012 at 12:41 AM
    #21
    EL ROJO

    EL ROJO B==D~~

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    Anyone have gussets on motor mounts on a 1st gen round here? How much of a pita is it to do? Replacing motor mounts is a pain fo sho from wut I heard(referring to 1st gens). Would love that peace of mind. I believe in the over build and not need then under build and wish u had done more....
     
  2. Feb 16, 2012 at 12:52 AM
    #22
    EL ROJO

    EL ROJO B==D~~

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    By the way this should be a sticky!
     
  3. Feb 16, 2012 at 8:26 AM
    #23
    jtlachac08

    jtlachac08 Well-Known Member

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    x2
     
  4. Feb 16, 2012 at 8:53 AM
    #24
    Cr250jumper

    Cr250jumper Señor member

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    This guy made some pretty beefy ones and was offering to make them a while back

    http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168585&page=3
     
  5. Feb 16, 2012 at 9:32 AM
    #25
    Marnes2986

    Marnes2986 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    x3 there's a lot more to be done than just bolting up a kit.
     
  6. Feb 16, 2012 at 11:16 AM
    #26
    Marnes2986

    Marnes2986 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    If you're going to have rear LT, i think its good to have the rear c-channel frame boxed in. IDK if its essential once you get a rear setup, but it would prevent any flex or bending in the future. Preventive maintenance! Heres mine.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The stock crossmember (X) was left because my fabricator believes that it actually is a very structurally sound part of the frame. Its a big X and it supports both the top and bottom of the C-Channel. Its just a bitch to plate around it. Some people have cut it out and add their own crossmember, which i think is good as well.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I had to box the frame anyways because i have a fat notch in it lol
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Feb 16, 2012 at 11:23 AM
    #27
    Marnes2986

    Marnes2986 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DMZ's got the templates, not sure if he will sell, call him up dmzfab.com
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Feb 16, 2012 at 11:25 AM
    #28
    SoCalRoadie

    SoCalRoadie Well-Known Member

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    I noticed it looks like your E-Brake cable is still attached... is that correct? If so do you just leave it dangling like that? Any worry about breaking it due to travel and or debris? Thanks.

    CIMG1157.jpg
     
  9. Feb 16, 2012 at 11:26 AM
    #29
    97yota4wd

    97yota4wd Well-Known Member

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    alot of metal, small engine, decent travel.
    caged, camburg long travel, 50t leafpack (soon to be installed) light rack over cab, 5pt harnesses etc
    thats very good frame plate work. ill get a pic of mine.., you can make it yourself....

    heres mine..

     
  10. Feb 16, 2012 at 12:46 PM
    #30
    Marnes2986

    Marnes2986 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah its attached. Its not dangling like in the picture. It hasnt given me any problems
     
  11. Feb 16, 2012 at 12:46 PM
    #31
    05TacoRunner

    05TacoRunner You say tomato..........I say fuck you!

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    Aftermarket nuts and bolts
    Boxed frame is a good idea. Here is the only pic I have of mine. Also moved the hitch up into the frame rails and welded it in
    [​IMG][/IMG]
     
  12. Feb 16, 2012 at 1:33 PM
    #32
    hudhawk

    hudhawk #texasforever

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    Sub'd, I'm starting this stuff early, way before long travel. I've already started on my motor mount gussets, should be done this weekend. I'm doing TC LCA cam tab gussets beginning of next month when I get paid.
     
  13. Feb 23, 2012 at 9:44 PM
    #33
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof Power Top

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  14. Feb 23, 2012 at 11:03 PM
    #34
    Marnes2986

    Marnes2986 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Great pictures Monkeyproof!

    Thats another good point....we need to know common places that are prone to failure and cracks. The pictures help as well! I need to check the tranny Xmember
     
  15. May 22, 2012 at 7:09 PM
    #35
    wormfood

    wormfood Well-Known Member

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    TRD SC, UWS Low Profile Toolbox, All Pro expedition leaf spring pac, Icon stage 4 suspension, B.A.M.F LCA Skid plates, TC weld-on upper coil bucket tower gussets, TC weld-on spindle gussets with swaybar mounts. RTT, Thule Roof Rack, Thule Bed Rack, Warn Zeon 10 Winch, All Pro Front Bumper, All Pro Apex Sliders, HID Spot/Flood Lights Front.
    This is one of the better threads I have read in a while.

    I am a mid travel expedition rig, building for back country travel were self reliance and equipment dependability, under load is paramount.

    Luckily you LT guys take a beating and your knowledge trickles down to us MTers!

    I have the TC Upper Coil Bucket Tower Gussets, TC Weld on Spindle Gussets, and TC Lower Control Arm Cam Tab Gussets waiting install.

    I am wondering what the best paint job method is to have them ready. Mainly what areas to leave clean to allow the weld.

    Also, is this a solid option for beefing up the rear? The thought being it is enough for my application with out removing the bed for the type of major reinforcements you LTers apply.Shackle Mount Cross-member 05^ tacoma

    [​IMG]

    I would never had thought about gusseting the motor/transmission mounts until I read this thread.

    Great info, keep sharing.
     
  16. May 23, 2012 at 1:09 AM
    #36
    6spd

    6spd Well-Known Member

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    this is definitely a good read, for us little people that have stock rides. sheds light on what needs to be addressed, to go full ON BREAUX. seriously, I am thinking of getting all the support, bracing done, before I purchase a LT kit, and this is a nice map, visual on what I have to look forward to. If I dont go LT, at least I have a truck that is ready.

    should be a sticky, as well
     
  17. May 23, 2012 at 6:27 AM
    #37
    06HAOLE

    06HAOLE Well-Known Member

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    Great thread Mark. Here are a few things that I suggest for 05+ Tacomas.

    -Relocate battery to bed. 1st fix:My battery bounced around under the hood after the stock bracket failed during some light offroading. 2nd fix I then bought a battery box for my Optima and reinforced the inner fenderwell with some 1/4" plate. That lasted a year or so and I still had isssues with the fenderwell collapsing under the weight of the battery. 3rd I finally had to relocate the battery and box to my toolbox to keep it clean, and secure. I used a really heavy gauge welding wire (2 gauage I think) routed along my frame to the battery.

    -Upgrade your wheel studs. Buy the ARP extended wheel studs. They are much longer and stronger than the Toyota stuff. Most aftermarket wheels are so deep that the stock wheelstuds barely allow a lug nut to bite. This is a really cheap mod when you think about the damage that you can do to yourself and your truck if a few wheel studs break during a weekend trip.
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7715

    -Upgrade your brake lines to stainless steel or equivalent. I suggest brake pads and rotors as well. You will need all the stopping power you can get with 33-35" tires running around in the dirt. The rubber Toyota stuff gets really hot and expands causing your brakes to go to mush. The brakes on the 05+ Tacomas suck on the street and even more in the dirt.

    -Keep an aluminum jack in your truck at all times. I have been saved so many times when something failed or I had to change a tire. You cannot (safely) change a tire on an LT truck with anything less than a floor jack. I hated using a hi-lift in the past to raise the truck.

    -Essential spare parts in truck at all times.
    • Wheel studs and lug nuts
    • U-joints for driveshaft
    • Wheel bearing: both sides are the same
    • Battery connectors
    -Buy quality offroad lights. You will outrun your stock headlights at night or you will miss seeing a ditch etc when coming back or going to camp. Accidents can/will happen with lights but they are a huge help and have saved my life. (I almost hit a train that was blacked out at night in the desert.) I suggest not hauling the mail thru unfamiliar areas anyway.

    -Buy or fab skidplates. You dont need to be a rock crawler to need good skidplates. I suggest from bumper to transfer case if you have one. I have bottomed out the truck hard on mine and without them I would have been done and stranded 50 miles from the nearest road. Aluminum is pricey but easier to move yourself and keeps the truck's weight down.

    -Get a quality pre-runner bumper made. A good bumper can save your life if you wad your truck up. A real bumper with solid frame horns is what Im talking about. The bolt on stuff is nice and looks the part but a well made bumper with solid crossmembers can save your front end during a hard hit. Expect to pay $1500 if you want a good fab shop to make you a weld-on bumper. It can be done for less but something is usually missing: materials, fit/finish, craftsmanship.
     
  18. May 23, 2012 at 3:48 PM
    #38
    username

    username Fluffer

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    I would like to emphasize motor mount gussets again. My engine smacked the front diff so hard it blew a hole in the oil pan.
    [​IMG]

    Also adjust your front bumps properly and do not add too much preload to your coilovers or it will shatter the top hat.
    [​IMG]

    "If you're in the air, stay off the gas"
    [​IMG]

    Even if your HID's are so bright you can see three counties away there may be danger lurking in the shadows. This was on a road I knew, just one rainstorm caused this wash out and subsequent 60-0 mph stop. Radiators are vital to getting you home, so protect it with your bumper/engine cage design. Also do not use electric fans (they never last long) and keep a spare belt.
    [​IMG]

    Replace the stock rubber carrier bearing on the driveshaft with a solid bearing. It will save you many u-joints.
    [​IMG]

    Inspect your rig before and after every wheelin' trip and you will find minor problems before they turn into total failure. I mean physically get out the socket set and check bolts for tightness. You will be surprised at how many loose bolts you find.
     
  19. May 23, 2012 at 4:13 PM
    #39
    EL TACOROJO

    EL TACOROJO SNAPPIN NECKS AND CASHIN CHECKS.

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    Is there a write up for the solid carrier bearing for a first gen
     
  20. May 23, 2012 at 7:36 PM
    #40
    wormfood

    wormfood Well-Known Member

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    Username, priceless info, added to my list of schooling.

    The pics are a big help.
     
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