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Pro change

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016+)' started by rebel yell, Apr 18, 2017.

  1. Apr 18, 2017 at 2:49 PM
    #1
    rebel yell

    rebel yell [OP] New Member

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    Anyone done a 2017 trd pro oil change? If so how difficult and is it doable through access plate in skid plate. Thanx for any info.
     
  2. Apr 18, 2017 at 2:53 PM
    #2
    bobrown14

    bobrown14 Well-Known Member

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    Wheels tires sliders LED fogs VooDoo racks tail gate letters bed liner - suspension on the way....
    Bro... here's a tip. The dealership does it for FREE! even a free oil filter.

    IF insisting on DIY... should be able to handle skid plates or get it done free.
     
    9TRDTCO and Unchained 5150 like this.
  3. Apr 18, 2017 at 2:57 PM
    #3
    rebel yell

    rebel yell [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for the quick reply. Planning to try myself. Was told there was a access plate to remove old filter and oil.
     
  4. Apr 18, 2017 at 3:03 PM
    #4
    smitty99

    smitty99 I also bought a 4Runner

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    Yep just do it through the access plate.
     
  5. Apr 18, 2017 at 3:12 PM
    #5
    bobrown14

    bobrown14 Well-Known Member

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    Or remove skid plate and not make a mess.... or get it done free!
     
    MagneticTaco4x4 and shakerhood like this.
  6. Apr 18, 2017 at 3:12 PM
    #6
    smitty99

    smitty99 I also bought a 4Runner

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    You have to learn somehow
     
  7. Apr 18, 2017 at 4:16 PM
    #7
    TacoEngineering

    TacoEngineering Trust Me

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    It is easy. I've done it twice on my truck so far. The access panel provides more than enough room to extract the filter cartridge. You will need a 5mm hex key to remove the four screws holding the access panel in place, and a 14mm socket for the drain plug. You will also need one of these to unscrew the filter cartridge from the engine. I have that exact one. Works like a charm. Please use the nipple included with the 04152-YZZA1 filter replacement kit to drain the cartridge of oil before removing it from the engine. Otherwise you will have a big mess on your hands. The cartridge is drained by first removing the metal cover with a 3/8" driver, and then the nipple can be inserted which will drain the cartridge of oil. Also replace both o-rings with the new ones included in the kit. The large one goes on the outside of the cartridge, and the small one goes under the metal cover. Please do not over torque the metal cap onto the cartridge, the cartridge back onto the engine, or the drain plug. Chaos will ensue should you do so. The torque spec for the four screws holding the access panel in place is 18ft-lbs, and the drain plug spec is 30ft-lbs. A dash of common sense works well if you don't have a torque wrench. A Fumoto valve (F103, F103S, or F103N) will make future oil changes easier. I have a F103S and it works mint. Goodluck!
     
  8. Apr 18, 2017 at 4:22 PM
    #8
    ChrisK7UND

    ChrisK7UND Well-Known Member

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    Great advise! One question that nobody ever can answer, what is the deal with the metal tab on the oil filter housing? Seems to cause the most confusion.

    Thanks!
     
  9. Apr 18, 2017 at 4:51 PM
    #9
    TacoEngineering

    TacoEngineering Trust Me

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    I think it is a retaining clip. Cheap insurance to keep the cartridge from ever backing itself off of the engine. The plastic and metal get hot and cold at the same time in that area, but they do not expand and contract at the same rate. As a result, constant vibrations could cause things to loosen up. That clip, I think, is like a cotter pin through a ball joint stud & nut. It just keeps catastrophe from striking.
     
  10. Apr 18, 2017 at 5:37 PM
    #10
    over60

    over60 Over70 & still a "Grumpy Old Guy"

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    Toyota put it there to make you question doing an oil change yourself...!! It makes the "Nervous Nellies" a bit insecure, cuz they don't know what this thing is for... then they go to the dealer and have the owner's 14 Yr. old snotty nose grandson change their oil.

    It appears to me to be a dumb-ass worthless thingy, that has no real value or purpose in life... ( kinda like an ashtray on a motorcycle)...!!
     
    bobrown14 likes this.
  11. Apr 20, 2017 at 3:13 PM
    #11
    rebel yell

    rebel yell [OP] New Member

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    Thanks to all great advice .
     
  12. Apr 20, 2017 at 3:19 PM
    #12
    bobrown14

    bobrown14 Well-Known Member

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    HEH? I cant hear you
     
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  13. Apr 20, 2017 at 3:42 PM
    #13
    MOC221_

    MOC221_ 3rd Gen GinGer StepchilD

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    Great advice posted here! I've changed my oil twice as well, pay attention to the O-ring placement as mentioned. The filter element box has clear instructions, diagrams and all! If ur doing this on the ground/garage floor, be aware that 0W20 shoots out of the pan like water.. I now have a larger drain pan with higher sides lol. Assuming of course u don't have a fumoto valve yet. Oh, and someone else mentioned filling up the filter housing with fresh oil when re-installing.. ie priming it.
     
    over60 likes this.
  14. Apr 20, 2017 at 4:28 PM
    #14
    Broccoli

    Broccoli Well-Known Member

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    The only other thing i can add is some people have opted out of the plastic housing and bought an aftermarket metal one. I got a universal one at napa.
     
  15. Apr 20, 2017 at 4:55 PM
    #15
    over60

    over60 Over70 & still a "Grumpy Old Guy"

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    Toyota running boards/Solid Fold 2.0/custom stickers/Anti-Dark LED light under hood/Derped grill/Scoop, etc.
    Fumoto Valve rules man...!!!! Oil goes directly into a used oil container... No touch, no mess...!! Prime the filter housing too...!! Oh, that plastic housing will outlast the truck if you don't use the wrong wrenches..!!
     
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