Problem I have splicing into a wire using a T-tap connector

Hi everyone,

I have just finished installing my pop & lock for my truck except finish the last bit of wiring. I really want to make a real good splice the two wires to my truck. I went shopping for some T-tap splicing adapters, and all they do is just pinch the wire and not make a good contact, I am generally unhappy. Here in this picture, the OP has used something similar (click link, pics weren't attaching, 3pics total, click next to see each one.):
http://imgur.com/gallery/5LgHv

The problem with this kind of splicing is the simple act of pressing the wire into this slotted metal piece bludgeons the wire. It’s supposed to strip back the insulation on the wire to make contact with the wire itself. The problem is that there is no guarantee that you won’t accidentally catch some of the wire in this process and tear some of the individual wire strands. It is actually quite common that this does happen. Second, when the connection process does strip the insulation without completely trashing the wire then the opposite is sometimes true – it only makes limited contact with the wire.

I bought a small hand held butane torch, and I can strip a bit of the insulation or use my wire-stripper, but then after I splice the other wire, I'd need to solder it and insulate it. The problem is, there is no way I could get my soldering iron downstairs to my truck, and there are no power sockets near my truck. I also don't like to tape/insulate the only way I know, it's not clean.

I appreciate your time and answers.

( Does anyone else here have any good suggestion? I want a clean tap, and I am not what to do. I hate to break individual wire strands in the wire, as this wiring is for its original function -it serves in locking the truck doors. )

 

If you're worried about the scotch locks, you could get some of these (not sure if the right gauge for those wires, you'll want to check them first):

$8 Posi-tap® Connector, 20-22 Gauge Wire, Pack of 5

http://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Connector-20-22-Gauge-Wire/dp/B00389UT3I

They basically just stick a pin through the insulation to contact the wire, and has no chance of clipping the wire strands like you mentioned.

 

Thanks @cheuer,

After a lot of google-fu, I came across this product from Tifco Industries, which compares all types of connectors and gives a permanent solution. For a truck that's supposed to last a long time, I'd rather do everything solid and long lasting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJqUoFrSHy8

 

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That video sets off a few red flags for me:

• Can't view the video on websites other than youtube.com. I've only encountered this a few times, but it was always in shady circumstances.
• Comments are disabled on the video. I can't see any reason to do this other than to prevent people from saying negative things about it (as positive comments will only help to sell the product)
• Their product appears to only be sold on their own website, which requires you to create an account before you can see the price.

I'll be staying far away from that, regardless of how nice they look (and they do look pretty nice).

Let us know how it works out for you if you do decide to go with them.

 

I've been using 3m t-taps for 11 years. Haven't seen many issues of used properly. Biggest issues are using them on too think of a wire, or too thin. They have black ones that work on really thin wires 22-24 ga. People try to use yellow ones on 10ga wire without stripping the insulation. This bends the connector around the wire and doesn't allow a good connection. This can cause arching, which can burn the t-tap. I've seen several over the years. However if done properly they are fine for connections inside the vehicle.

As always this is your truck so ultimately it's your call. You could splice in with butt connectors. You would have to cut the wire though. But you could get some heat shrink ones if it tickles your fancy. Obviously the best method is soldering. You said you don't have a outlet near by. You can pick up a cheap butane soldering iron for under $20 online. Might not be the best thing in the world but it should work to do what you need.

 

I agree with @Lawfarin on using the proper size tap. I work in the boating industry and use t-taps on trailer lights all the time and have had no issues. As far as your solder iron issue, if you want to solder the connection for the little bit you are doing, they do make a battery powered solder iron. I have used one on video game controllers and it worked just fine, or a gas solder iron would be great too.

 

How far away is your truck? (how far is "downstairs"?) I'm thinking that if you really want to solder (I like soldering), then an extension cord may be in order.

 

Just fyi my wire solder gun works great off the plugin in the bed...

 

Thanks all for comments,.. I have decided to properly solder it and seal it. That's the only guaranteed good solution.