Project apocalypto

I hear you man, I did my time in Socal at Ft Irwin. Originally from John Day myself.

 

Think, cutting board material. Then you understand what UHMW basically is.

 

Might be me. Drunkposting is a favorite hobby of mine.

 

Lol, I got 2 years left down here. I feel Oregon is slowly going down the same path as Cali though. Im getting out and moving to Boise most likely.

 

Seems that way. I hear there is going to be a push to ban lead ammo this fall. Register to vote if you haven't already.

 

Na I was just assuming. Carry on

 

wow very nice go ducks

 

are you running beads in your hummer locks for balancing?

 

Must subscribe

 

I ran 2500 airsoft bbs per tire with my first set of goodyears, but nothing with the BFG's. Seems ok up to about 85mph, faster than that and they vibrate the steering wheel a little.

 

I absolutely love this build also

 

That's because I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing.

 

It shows

 

I forgot to add my manual shift T-case mod. The cable is an old outboard motor shifter. Evinrude FTW.

Shifter on the left side of the cage.






On the T-case side.

 

Ya, all the way forward is 4lo, one click back 4hi, and laid all the way back is 2HI.

 

shit, I can't be all
"haha 2nd gens suck, 1st gen manual j-shifter FTMFW MOTHERFUCKERS"

anymore

because of you

you sit there and think about what you've done



D)

 

Subbed for awesomeness. Wish my 13 had a manual t-case

 

There are lots of options. Swap in an FJ manual case, marlin crawler makes adapters to swap in gear drive cases, inchworm too, and even trail gear. You could also hillbilly engineer something like I did. It's not rocket surgery.

 

Do you have a how to on this? Do you override the front diff add with the locker?

 

No, I didn't do a write up on it. I wouldn't advise anyone who isn't a hillbilly to repeat this mod, and if you are a P.H.E. (Professional Hillbilly Engineer) then you don't need instructions, and if there were any you wouldn't read them anyway. For the ADD, I just manually slid the ADD into the locked position, then bolted the ADD actuator back in and unplugged it. It's sort of like driving around with the hubs locked in. The ARB is open when it's unlocked, so it works great that way. My best advice is to go grab a 10mm, 12mm, and a flat screwdriver and take the T-case actuator apart and see how it works. Then go look in the scrap pile and see what you have to make a manual shifter and do it. Easy as pie man.