Radiator assistance

So after 19.5 years my radiator has spring a leak. not in the usual place but where the A/T line attaches to the bottom of the radiator. rust has it's downsides :|

It appears to be a threaded connector that keeps the A/T tube and gasket tight so that the fluid does not leak from the bottom reservoir

I've been looking by my TRD/Google Fu is not strong on this.

Can anyone locate a replacement "nut" so I don't have to replace the entire radiator?

it seems like this is not a "push" fitting at the entire tube can move in an out (unless I'm wrong)

pic for reference

 

There's an internal cooler for the ATF. Highly doubt you can re-tighten that fitting to prevent the leak. It's a chance you're taking imo. Especially under pressure and heat.

 

You could preemptively clean and jbweld the entire surface if you're worried...then go get a stainless worm clamp

Something tells me you'd need access to the internal race of the rad to change that nut

 

You got your moneys worth spring for a New radiator. The cost to repair that one would cost more doing it the correct way.

Install a independent Transmission Cooler and Call it good!

 

Rads are consumable parts.

It will cost you $75 from Amazon for a new one.

I wish you were closer, I have a brand new rad for an automatic 1st gen I'd give you.

4 cylinder, non towing automatic. I needed a V6 w/ tow.

 

4cyl rad is too little cooling on hot days. plus no "towing" just auto trans (as I like to call it, "temp equalizer")


still, if I can get life out of it I would rather not spend $75 for a worse rad that will go bad in a couple of years :/

I may hit up the B/S/T if anyone has spare parts

I'd be interested to know how it works, whether the nut was part of the internal piece or just screwed on from the outside

 

This is too simple of a fix.

Either a new radiator, or bypass the internal transmission part of the cooler and run an external cooler.

 

Look up " pink milkshake ".

After reading that topic, you will have a new rad ordered and on the way.

Aftermarket rads are fine. Kind of a waste to spend extra money for something that should be replaced every 10 years.

A radiator flush cost $125. A new radiator and coolant cost $100.

 

There's a rubber seal on the internal part of the cooler, the nut holds it tight against the plastic end-tank so it will seal.

Just replace the radiator. I get being frugal but you got 20 years out of it, the truck is worth it.

 

take a crowbar to your wallet and buy a new radiator.... more work trying to limp that thing along.

 

Its really crzy to mess around with something that could leak into your tranny.......

messin with fire.........the whole thing is gonna be old and heat stressed.....

for a crimp top radiatior .....that's like 250yrs in people years.....




The real insult happens......when the replacement one only last 5 or 6yrs.....


Didn't think twice about putting a $250 better one in mine....that and a tranny cooler is what determines the trucks lifespan.....

 

Might also be a good time to do the timing belt and water pump if you have the radiator out of the way

 

No timing belt on the 2.7. It has a chain. Not needed.

 

mmm Is there something that says it's a 2.7? I wouldn't have mentioned the timing belt if I caught that. The OP has a signature that mentions a 3.4l v6. Another member says they have a 2.7l radiator available, but that doesn't mean the OP has a 2.7...

 

so after looking at it (I may tear it apart after removing) it seems the "nut" is actually part of the trans cooler tube. the outer nut must have rusted off years ago and I never noticed (judging by the new rad)

I was able to find a Denso for <150 so yeah just going to replace.


I will also get the timing belt/WP changed since it will be torn apart anyway (and I have a loaner vehicle for rainy days, MC otherwise).

will also be getting a few other things situated as well, trans drain/fill is due and will finally put on the external cooler


will be setting up a tent (10x17) to sit under and be out of the elements. some CA bushings need replaced along with cam bolts (yay rust). then I can pull the bed and take care of the rear frame.


list of things to accomplish


got to get mother's car situated first as her front hub sounds like a lathe cutter