Radio stuck on, truck won’t shut down / let me lock the doors.

it’s very easy to do if you download the right Hakchi, took me 3 tries to find the right one, then you gotta download the emulator files directly from the hakchi store (they’re free), I was downloading the files from websites and it wouldn’t work. You can find a lot of info if you google it, the YouTube video I watched pointed me in the wrong direction, some British dude, don’t listen to him. The guys on Reddit are great help. Basically just makes sure you get Hakchi CE not Hakchi 2, download the emulators from the Hakchi store, and the Roms for the games you can get from emulatorgames.net

Again it’s such a popular thing to do there’s almost to much info on how to do it.

 

All right back on track. Printing and making diagrams, gonna everything back in and do some testing. My two friends are here today, ones a red seal heavy equipment tech, the others a red seal automotive and truck and trailer tech, we’re gonna get this figured out today.

 

We just want to wish you good luck, we're all counting on you.
Zim

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmHeP9Sve48

 

For juice into the cab, you may not have a electric tow brake need...
T7 Towing Brake T harness info

 

Did you ever figure out what was going on? My truck just started doing the same thing yesterday

 

unfortunately no, basically all my mountain bike stuff came in and I got side tracked that weekend. Fast forward to Thursday and I lost brakes in my car so I had to put the truck on the road again.

I put my junction box back together and put it in the truck / hooked up the battery and my trucks okay again. After a week off having the battery unhooked / the junction box removed the truck “fixed itself”, and the problem now is it’s hard to fix since I can’t replicate it. I still suspect it was the certification ecu and I still think it was all my fuse taps that caused it. I’ve had @MESO ’s puddle, map/dome, and 3rd brake light installed this whole time without issue.

Probably just going to redo power for my AV setup and hopefully never have this problem again.

 

Thanks, keep me updated. The only thing I have similar to you is the puddle lights, but I’ve had no issue with them until now. I had the wife check the truck this morning and everything seems to be working fine. I did change the batteries in both fobs I’m hoping it doesn’t happen again

 

And after a couple of months we’re back!! Haven’t had a problem with my radio or accessory system in a long while but today I rolled down the windows and down they stayed, only the rear windows actually. Checked fuses nothing, played with window lock switch nothing, tried window switch on drivers rear door -> hey it went up, tried to put it back down and nothing happened. Tried the passenger side rear window switch and nothing happened. Tried drivers side again and hey it goes up and down now!! Tried to do it from the drivers controls and nothing happened. Checked fuses again and all are fine, looked at wiring diagram to find relay, found relay in drivers side junction box.... woohoo... certification ecu has come back to haunt me again!!!

 

Drivers rear window is now working when it pleases, passenger is still non functional, front windows work fine. I unplugged the harness to the motor in the rear passenger door and just jumped 12v power to get my window back up and avoid water damage.

 

Have you tried replacing the relay you found? Or is that next?

 

Said relay is soldered to a board with all its friends in the drivers side junction box.

I likely need a whole new junction box and with all the different fuse layouts for a 3rd gen Tacoma it’s probably going to be fun getting the correct one.

 

Hey George did you ever get your figured out, I 100% solved all this BS in the last couple of months and guess what, it wasn’t the puddle lights but things I did while installing the puddle lights. And I also think the 3 fuse taps I installed played a roll since the windows only get power when the trucks on, so they’ve been removed as well.

I chaffed the two wires running from the drivers master switch (for up and down) to the rear switch as well as a power wire when I installed the puddles and ran the wires through the door boots. It was actually removing the boots that cause the wire the get stretched across and chaffed against the boots seating surface. The surface is just thin sheet metal so it easily peeled the wires casing off.

I repaired the wires, checked passenger side boot wires too. Installed an aux fuse / relay block direct to battery for all my aftermarket accessories.

Other than my master window switch being fried (confirmed with a meter <voltage is wacky on rear window wires> / a second Tacoma to swap parts with), my truck is back to normal. My dogs happy he has one window back but sour the one behind me still doesn’t work. Oh and the only reason why it’s fried is because I was still using it for over a year while unknowingly having damaged wires.

so the lessons we learned are don’t run multiple fuse taps off of your fuse box, it doesn’t matter what you tap off of... your certification ecu won’t appreciate the extra load. And secondly, be extra careful when pulling on your door boots.. metal sharp / wire thin.

 

Thanks for the update on it. Mine fixed itself and hasn’t done it in months dealership had it and pretty much told me they have no clue